First Generation Questions

I should have mentioned it has a Weber carb, not oem Toyota, but I got that issue fixed the camshaft timing was 3 teeth advanced now it tilts all good, but my question now, I hit a bump way to hard and it jostled the battery, and it made contact with the fender, everything else works except the rear window it’s getting power going down but not up. I have no clue what could cause this. Thanks

 

I won't say the problem is related to the battery contacting the fender, but I won't say it's not.

If I were to guess, and start trouble shooting, I would look at the circuits in the tailgate itself first. There's two wires that go the window motor, one for up, the other for down. It's very possible the up wire got bounced off, or at least loose, from the motor. Or from the window control relay box.
The motor is in the tail gate, the relay on the driver's side, in the back cargo area, under one of the side panels, just behind the seats.
Is the problem with both the switch in the cab, and the keyswitch, or one or the other? IE: does one work and the other not? That can help isolate the trouble.

You can try following the wiring from the motor to both the keyswitch and the switch in the cab. Hook the multimeter to the motor's UP side, and actuate the keyswitch, and the switch in the cab. Any voltage? trace the wires to the relay, and check the UP wire coming out of it. Any voltage when the key or switch in the cab are actuated?

If in doubt, you can put a battery in the back, and hook the positive to one of the wires going into the motor. It should run the motor both up and down, when the wires are hooked to the battery. One at a time, of course.

I would guess there's a good possibility one of the wires to the switch in the cab, or the relay, was knocked off. Easy enough to check. Just takes removing cover plates from the switch, the relay, the motor, etc to verify.
Chances are it isn't a fuse or circuit breaker, because they're all common to both up and down, so if one works, and the other not, the fuses and circuit breaker are good, most likely.

Does any of that rambling help at all? I'm still on my first cuppa coffee, so bear with me...
Pat☺

 

My FM didn’t seem to work very well but AM worked fine I pulled mine out and went to upick and grabbed a newer radio I think it came from a 1998-99 with cd and cassette works great but you have to get the right one for the bezel to fit right some have a amp behind the radio but stock connectors worked

 

I will start there, tho it’s weird that I hear the relay click to go down and then nothing when I try to get it to go up, when I press down it physically puts a strain on the battery/alternator and you can tell lights dim buzzer gets quieter but nothing trying to roll it up, like it’s not getting power, I’ll start from the tailgate and work forwards tho.

 

Not really all that odd. It's not that the motor isn't drawing current in the UP position. That just shows the motor isn't being commanded to turn in the UP direction. Now, the trick is to determine WHY the motor isn't being commanded in the UP direction.

It could be any number of things, honestly. It could be the up command from the switch, or the relay. It could even be the UP wire on the motor has come adrift (loose). Does it not go with the switch in the cab, AND the keyswitch on the tailgate? If that's the case, I would say it's probably from the relay back. Most likely the UP wire ON the motor itself.

In other words, I suspect a connection has come adrift someplace. Cab switch, relay, motor, someplace. It could also be a wire burnt through someplace, but I feel that's less likely. Possible, but less likely. If it is a burnt through wire, you get a chance to practice your soldering skills, at least
It could even be a ground somewhere, although I would suspect the grounds to be common to both directions. It can't hurt to check them though.

One thing you can be sure of, it's NOT a safety interlock. Thus, you don't need to check the rear wiper, the tailgate safety, etc. If any of those had gone south on you, it wouldn't go UP or DOWN.

Let us know what you find
Pat☺

 

I fried the switch, which if your trying to find an oem one at a decent price good luck.

 

My issue was the plug in the back of my stock radio that sent power to the speakers was messed up, so a new radio fixed that one. Tho if I am gonna look for a oem replacement I might look into a 90s double din