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Looking to change out the CV axles

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by getaway88, Apr 26, 2021.

  1. Apr 26, 2021 at 2:04 PM
    #1
    getaway88

    getaway88 [OP] New Member

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    Marcus
    RENO NV
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    '95 4runner 3VZE (3.slow)
    4" lift K&N filter
    I can't believe how long this passenger side axle has lasted. Got the beast in 2019 and noticed the boot was ripped, anyway long story short she's still rolling but I'm finally getting to changing out the cv axle and thought I might as well do both. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
     
  2. Apr 27, 2021 at 10:26 AM
    #2
    D60

    D60 New Member

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    There's several YT vids. There seems to be 2 approaches but what worked for me was pulling the lower control arm way down. I actually hung a really heavy electric motor to it ('cause it was handy) and connected a ratchet strap to pull it down. This was on a lift, though

    What I'd do now is knock out the studs at the diff and replace with bolts. You can also try to just re-use the studs or what I actually did was turn down the serrated portion that presses into the diff flanges so they now don't actually press in anymore......but you'd want access to a lathe for that
     
    getaway88[OP] likes this.
  3. Apr 28, 2021 at 9:41 PM
    #3
    Dezman92

    Dezman92 New Member

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    This is what I did. I knocked out the studs from the tulips on the diff I replaced them later with nuts, bolts, and lock washers. Then I removed the nuts and bolts that held the front diff to the frame. I lowered the diff with a jack and I was able to sneak out the axles without having to take off the spindle. While I was at it I replaced my drive flanges with manual locking hubs so I can preserve the cv joints.
     
    getaway88[OP] likes this.
  4. Aug 29, 2021 at 4:00 PM
    #4
    Flagstaff 4runner

    Flagstaff 4runner New Member

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    I have only ever done old b series honda axles which are extremely easy. I just got a 92 4runner and the guy I bought it from threw in a new set of CV's. I pulled off the wheel and the axle is not a simple process. It seems like everyone tears up parts taking the end cap off on YouTube. Anyone got a specific good link that isn't banging with hammer and chisel. Everything is old and decrepit down there. Also no manual locking hubs.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2021
    getaway88[OP] likes this.
  5. Aug 31, 2021 at 2:56 PM
    #5
    Justthemechanic

    Justthemechanic New Member

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    OME 2” lift, BudBuilt armor, RRO sliders, Spartan rear locker
    Once the truck frame is supported on jack stands, you can jack up the LCA until the CV shaft is level. Turn the steering wheel a little and you can compress the CV joints by hand and it will clear the studs. You may have to rotate the tulip a little so the studs clear the CV, it is close but it will come out.
    I remove the cap by using a large pair of Channel Locks. Grip the cap close to the hub with the handles away from the vehicle. Push down and pull up a few times and it should pop off.
     
    getaway88[OP] likes this.
  6. Oct 27, 2021 at 4:21 PM
    #6
    getaway88

    getaway88 [OP] New Member

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    Marcus
    RENO NV
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    '95 4runner 3VZE (3.slow)
    4" lift K&N filter
    How about trusted brands? Otherwise i was just going to order from partsgeek or something.
     
  7. Oct 28, 2021 at 12:21 PM
    #7
    Justthemechanic

    Justthemechanic New Member

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    Nevada desert
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    94 4Runner SR5, 5 speed, 3.0
    OME 2” lift, BudBuilt armor, RRO sliders, Spartan rear locker
    No recommendations on a brand, if the boot only has a small hole and still has grease inside, they are easy to rebuild, other than the mess…..
     

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