Tell me everything I need to know and buy to properly wash my new ‘21 ORP

I honestly hadn’t researched the proper way to wash a new vehicle. I have never owned one. I love the way this damn thing looks and I wanna keep it that way.

I am hearing that car washes are out. Don’t do that. If you guys could recommend proper brushes, soap, microfiber cloths, wax, methods etc for my noob self, I would very much appreciate it.

 

Honestly, this info is all over the internet. There is nothing that I've seen specific or quirky to the 4Runner (other more seasoned members will chime in) so what people recommend for any car should work great. Chemical Guys make some pretty solid stuff that can be had cheaply on Amazon. McGuiars (spelling?) is good too. Mothers, blah blah they're all fine.

Tips:
-Do it in the shade. It's basically impossible to get good results in direct sun-light.
-Having a helper is huge because speed is key when there is heat from the sun. If you're in the shade and it's cool outside, the process is much more relaxed.
-Blast everything off the car you can with high pressure water first, before you even think about touching the dirty body with a sponge.
-Use two buckets. Rinse the dirty sponge in the "really dirty" bucket, after using it on the car, before soaping it up again in the "semi-dirty" bucket.
-Wash the wheels and tires first, with their own dedicated sponge/mitt/rag.
-Start at the top of the truck when washing the body.
-Use a quality car wash. DO NOT use "dish soap" as it contains chemicals that are MEANT to remove wax, etc. I use dish soap to wash my car once a year or so, to really "scrub it, but I immediately apply fresh coats of wax afterward.
-Clay bar is great to use once a year or so.. at least every 2-3.
-Hand wax at least once a year... put 2-3 coats. Must buff in between each coat!
-Wash with sponge, microfiber rag, or mitt, as long as it's wet and sudsy.
-Wash the vehicle in sections, moving from top to bottom. Try to keep the sections wet, even after you've washed them, until you can fully dry. Do not let the soap dry on the car, especially, but even the clean water will spot up as it air dries.
-Dry as soon as possible with CLEAN microfiber rag (waffle knit is best) and light pressure, or use a chamois or squeegee if careful.

 

I do wheels and tires last actually, which follows the starting at the top of the car.

I use laundry detergent. It's much gentler than dish soap, but not sure exactly how safe it is for clear coat. Most scratches come from the rag/sponge you use anyway.

I never "scrub". If I have a tough spot to remove, I continue using the softest side of the sponge and make overlapping light circles over it until it breaks down.

I use a chamois to dry, and follow it up with a microfiber in leftover damp spots.

Everything else, I agree with the guy above ^ Remember, treat everything you touch the car with as a derivative of sand paper. (and dirt on the car will actually act as such, so the first rinse is critical)

 

I drive mine on trails often so going through a car wash won’t make a difference in scratches. If you plan on going off roading i wouldn’t bother wasting your money on high end products, simple automotive soap and sponge or car wash membership. Cheap spray wax in between washes and you’re set.

 

This is fantastic, thank you. That is likely everything I need to know honestly.

 

I always did it the same, until I switched. My logic is that.. since the wheels and tires are oddly shaped and have bulges, etc. there is some chance "dirty water" splashes off them onto the body when washing. Honestly, though.. I don't think I really had a problem with this. Either way, I'm not nearly as concerned with the wheels and tires being clean, so I'd rather dirty water get from the body onto the already cleaned wheels than the other way around. I don't think either way is bad.

 

Surface scratches are one thing, and sure they don't look "great," but properly caring for the paint, especially via caring for the deep scratches, and keeping a good coating of wax on the paint, will not only PREVENT some scratches while off-roading, but will also prevent the paint from becoming dull, overall, in the future. Most of my trail scratches are only in the clear coat. Protecting the paint that is below the clear-coat is what this is all about. Without wax, the sun's UV rays will damage that paint beneath the clear-coat, scratches or not.

 

I started dry cleaning the wheels, and then just doing tire foam. You get a little overspray, but quick wipe from a microfiber is all it takes.

 

Oh, OP, since it's new, maybe do a ceramic coating! I've only heard good things

And on that note, consider a clear bra on the front

 

I've found that a coating of dirt and road grime protect the finish quite well. Bird poop and pine tree sap can't soak in, and gravel just bounces off. If I were to wash it, I'm sure the magnificent Barcelona Red paint would look brand new. I do clean the windows, mirrors, and lights though.

 

1st go find some mud to drive through at a high rate of speed. To do it properly, you'll want the mud to cover the windshield.



Then go find one of those DIY car washes with the pressure washer wand and foaming brush.
Pressure wash all that caked on mud off it, run the foaming brush over it, then repeat with the pressure washer wand.

Then go drive down a mile long dusty rocky gravel road and park it in your garage, like I do.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, it's best to dry off the hood with a towel. Otherwise the well water, the car wash uses, will leave spots.

 

This also adds a layer of protection to all of the underhood connections, nearly as good as heat shrink tubing, but a lot more fun to apply.

 

See attached pic this is what I use on all my cars. I also use Meguiars number 7 polish twice per year before the wax. Most Meguiars and Mother’s products are great. Do not use Dawn or Palmolive or any dish soap. It’s way to harsh for today’s paint. Use a car wash soap major brand.

I agree on using two buckets also. I usually start with wheels and I would just use soap for now. If they get real bad you may need a wheel cleaner but be very careful. Some wheel cleaners are more harsh than others and we need to know the wheel is made (ie alumninum etal). I am not sure in the ORP.

I love to detail cars and it’s been a hobby for years. My best advice is use a name like Meguiars or Mothers though. Don’t be cheap with product.

Each manufacturer site has good advice and videos. How detailed you want to be depends on the time you have and how much you want to do. I like to wax a few times per year. I don’t go to car washes and only do by hand due to scratches.

I am super fussy though. Everyone is different

 

Thanks man. Do you think the soap included in this kit is pretty good? Thinkin bout buying it to start off with...

https://www.chemicalguys.com/best-d...g-bucket-kit/HOL133.html=undefined&quantity=1

 

When I was able to wash my vehicles, can't now do to rock hard water and no shade, I always did the wheels and tires first. They take the most time and ya don't want to let water spottin' to start on the rest of the vehicle. And use a high nap terry cloth towel or a sponge designed for vehicles, wringing it often in a bucket.

Use a product made for vehicles, not dish soap (heven forbid) or laundry detergent.

Most vehicle detailers do not recommend a chamois. They can peal off wax. I used terry cloth towels back int the day, wringin' and flappin' regularly.

If ya want to keep it clean, it's better to run it through a car wash, than leave it dirty. Yas don't want some a$$hole fingering "wash me" on it. LOL!

BTW, not gospel, JMHO!

 

Most above comments are good. One thing. Please do not use laundry detergent. They may contain degreasing chemical which is not good for clearcoat. So as dish soap. They cleans pots and pans good. This means degreasing chemical.

if you have a choice, use soft water. If tap water must be used. Make sure to wipe them good to dry.

depends on mileage and where you have been, for new car, less soap is better. Use wash mitt or microfiber towel to avoid scratches.

use special chemical for wheel and tires. Do them first and go to body. Rinse body then tire and wheel again.

 

What I use to wash mine:

1) bucket with grit guard
2) hose
3) sponge
4) 2nd sponge for cleaning the wheels
5) car wash soap
6) step ladder
7) The Absorber for drying
8) microfiber towels and quick detailer for cleaning the door jambs.

 

Use good quality products - go to and sign up for emails. They run 25% off sales monthly with free shipping. I have used their Pinnacle line of products and I haven’t found anything that works better...not even close. Pinnacle body shampoo, then a layer of Klasse all-in-one, a layer of Klasse sealant glaze and finally Pinnacle’s souveran paste wax. If you’re not drunk enough by this point, you can use Pinnacle’s crystal mist spray over all of that. Good shit.

 

All the tips are great. I personally just do a regular wash with microfiber, and every 3 or so months apply my favorite hybrid ceramic coat. Keeps it nice.

However, since I’ve bout this nautical blue a month ago, I’m about to give up already. I forgot the misery of keeping a dark color looking nice...

 

I recently purchased a nautical blue ORP. I clay barred, then applied polish and meguiars M27 to ceramic coat. Yeah, the nautical blue shows scratches. I need to let go of my urge to fix it - because really no one sees the imperfections but me.

 

Took 4 stage correction...

 

And it comes out looking stellar. Love the blue.

 

It is fun reading this thread. We have so much sand and grit flying around here, plus, it's the desert, so all water is hard. Mesquite and Creosote are all around; I have pinstriped the truck pretty well. I drive thru the touchless, hit the windows, done. If the underside got muddy, I use the sprayer. I do keep the inside clean, tho...

 

when I joined the club last year, someone here turned me on to two products I really like...Aero303 plastic protectant. Very easy to apply and lasts. I was a fan of Black Magic before, and it's not bad at all but I really like 303. And for wax,

$22 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845. a little goes a looong way and easy application-a lot more forgiving if you let it dry 'too long" before you remove. Also if you're into tire dressing, I like Mequires Endurance spray. looks a little too glossy at first (for me anyway) but after the first day it's a nice finish without looking cheap and it lasts a few weeks.

 

I use the car wash.

 

Great thread. I'm retired so time isn't much of an issue.....but, the touchless car wash is good stuff. And let's face it, it is a ruff, tuff, off road vehicle. So there is a bit of compromise to be had. I admire the dedication of the waxers and ceramic coaters but it slows down my beer drinking; which might not be a bad thing.
Merry Christmas!

 

Yes... Just washed my Nauti Blue for first time and already noticed some inperfections after two weeks of driving with salt on the roads... ofcourse only I can see them since i had to squint to notice them.. Plan is to maintain a waxing regimen pre and post Winter and not stress it... Good luck.. Nauti Blue is an awesome color .

 

HAH! Me too. By the time I get home it's already dusty. Especially the lift gate. Kaint do nuttin' 'bout it. LOL! BTW, the swirl marks almost look like brush pin stripping. HEH!

 

Buy this product and a foam gun. There is absolutely NO better car wash soap available. Follow the instructions and prepared to be amazed.

CarPro Hydro2 Foam 500mL

$25 CARPRO HydrO2 Foam Car Wash & High Gloss Sealant in One: 1-Step Car Wash and Coat, Ultra-Hydrophobic Coating - 500mL (17oz)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HMO4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_fN.5FbT9EJBMS

 

All of this has likely been stated, but I detail my cars often so here is what I do:
I purchase most of my car care products from Auto Geek (excellent site and service).
As other have said:

• Wash from the top down with a proper car wash soap.
• After washing, I blow off excess water with a leaf blower and then dry with clean cotton towels. Never use chamois cloths, as they remove wax.
• Next I retreat all rubber moldings (windows, doors, etc.) with 303 rubber treatment spray
• then if it is time to wax (every 2 to 3 months depending on how much use the car has seen), I first clay bar the vehicle - easy to do and removes all contaminants in the paint.
• If it has been 6 months since I have applied a paint sealer, after using the clay bar, I apply a coat of paint sealer. Be sure to apply a very thin coat.
• Then a coat of wax is applied on top the paint sealer. This gives the vehicle a great shine and helps the sealant to last.
• After all that is done, I completely vacuum out the interior, remove the Weather Tech floor mats and clean them.
• Lastly, I open the hood and clean out the engine area and check all air filters, etc.

For removing dried wax and sealant, only use micro fiber towels.