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Electrical issues HELP needed

Discussion in '1st Gen 4Runners (1984-1989)' started by mgvaillant, Oct 28, 2020.

  1. Oct 28, 2020 at 4:40 AM
    #1
    mgvaillant

    mgvaillant [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2020
    Member:
    #16406
    Messages:
    12
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chief
    Vehicle:
    1988 1st Gen 4Runner, Red, 200k and running strong, pending total restoration
    Pending
    The following list of new onset electrical symptoms that I cannot find the source for:
    Non-functional instrument panel analog and idiot light gauges, no turn signals or radio but still have head lights, tail lights and 4 way flashers.
    All fuses good, idles intermittently rough.
    ECM issue? Short behind instrument panel? What do I need to do to find the culprit!
     
  2. Oct 30, 2020 at 11:46 AM
    #2
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2019
    Member:
    #12402
    Messages:
    1,206
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Patrick
    OREGON
    Vehicle:
    1999 4Runner, bone stock
    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    First, you need an FSM. There are FSM's available on several forum sites, in PDF format.
    Just a note: Be aware that the wiring would change, not only year to year, but even within a year. Like the wiring of an 88 built in March could be different than the wiring for an 88 built in November. Just something to be aware of so you don't get stuck in the wire color or fuse designation rabbit hole.

    I may well be wrong, but it sounds to me as though you have an intermittent open in a main power wire feeding the fuse panel under the driver's kick panel. All the fuses may read good, but what about the wires that feed the fuses? I would check the voltage on the main power wire feeding the fuse block. Also, there is a very important ground point right above the fuse block. There are 4 wires all crimped together, but they have a habit of coming loose inside the crimp. See what happens when you give each wire a little tug with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

    The secret is to make certain you wiggle the wires and cables as you check them. Easy to a wire to break inside the insulation. LOOKS totally fine, and be making contact, sometimes, but when you hit a bump, or whatever, the wire can separate, causing problems. Don't be afraid to wiggle these wires and cables. Including tugging on any and all plugs, fusible links, banging on fuses and relays, etc.

    Did you pull the fuse block under the hood and check the fusible links? Put a voltmeter on the ends of the fusible link and see whay happens when you bend and flex the link you're checking.

    All else fails, take a look at th schematic in the FSM, and start tracing the voltage from the battery to the fuses under the hood, and thence into the cabin fuse block. Just keep following the voltage until it's not there any more :)

    Good fortune! Sorry this isn't more detailed...
    Pat☺
     
    SlvrSlug likes this.
  3. Nov 7, 2020 at 4:25 PM
    #3
    mgvaillant

    mgvaillant [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2020
    Member:
    #16406
    Messages:
    12
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chief
    Vehicle:
    1988 1st Gen 4Runner, Red, 200k and running strong, pending total restoration
    Pending
    Outstanding! Thank you for taking the time composing such a thorough response.
    I’ll keep you informed of my progress.
     
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