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Fuse question!

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by glantzy, Aug 5, 2020.

  1. Aug 5, 2020 at 8:27 AM
    #1
    glantzy

    glantzy [OP] New Member

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    **EDIT**

    **Seems the blower’s not working.**

    Installed some “triceratops” (Raptor-style) lights, and accidentally plugged the fuse into the A/C COMP spot. I turned the Runner on to check the lights, and they worked, but I realized they were in the wrong spot.

    I had watched an install video for a 2019, but it turns out the fuses are in different spots for the 2020s.

    Now, the blower doesn’t work. I assumed it was the A/C COMP fuse, so I switched it out for a new one. Still doesn’t work... and my “check battery” light is on.

    Any suggestions? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020
  2. Aug 5, 2020 at 11:38 AM
    #2
    08TXRunner

    08TXRunner New Member

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    There is a relay in the under-hood fuse block for the A/C. It's worth looking at.
     
    glantzy[OP] likes this.
  3. Aug 6, 2020 at 5:43 AM
    #3
    glantzy

    glantzy [OP] New Member

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    So, I’ve realized that I have no blower; not no A/C. I decided to check the heat, as well, and there’s none of that, either. In fact, I can feel cool air if I hold my hand up to the vent, but nothing blows out, regardless of the fan setting.

    Still think A/C relay? I thought to check for a blower fuse, which is apparently 50A, but I can’t seem to figure out which one it is.

    The ones I can see are:
    •50A PTC HTR NO.1
    •50A HTR
    •50A AIR PMP
    •50A ABS NO.1

    Thoughts?

    Thanks in advance.

    EEE44B50-27C1-4F07-B6E6-B239895E7E99.jpg
     
  4. Aug 6, 2020 at 8:02 AM
    #4
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside A Guy A Girl and A Trail

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    If you’re getting the battery light while it’s running it’s likely you did something to blow the big fuse for the alternator.
     
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  5. Aug 6, 2020 at 8:49 AM
    #5
    glantzy

    glantzy [OP] New Member

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    Welp, I feel dumb. Glad I spent some time trying swapping out fuses, and looking A LOT...

    I missed a nut while putting it back together. Everything works as it should now.

    Thanks for the input!

    54D56FA0-CA25-4039-9B51-C51418124019.jpg
     
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  6. Aug 6, 2020 at 9:03 AM
    #6
    08TXRunner

    08TXRunner New Member

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    Yeah, that would do it. Free fix!
     
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  7. Aug 6, 2020 at 10:38 AM
    #7
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Good job. Sometimes you have to stop and regroup. Here’s a tip: try mapping out the unused blank fuse positions with your voltmeter. Some are really blank, but sometimes the positions are populated with pins and have +12V available. You can cleanly tap in there and not affect other existing circuits.
     
  8. Aug 7, 2020 at 9:03 AM
    #8
    Ironguy

    Ironguy New Member

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    Good detective work!
     
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  9. Aug 7, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #9
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Yeah, when working with electricity you have to take care and make sure you know what you’re connecting to.

    Here’s what I was describing. In order to not monkey around with existing circuits by tapping off power for an additional circuit, you can find unused, isolated, blank fuse locations. The under-hood fuse box has a number of blank locations, probably because it’s a universal item that can be customized to accommodate additional electrical options for the different trims.

    Here’s an example of one area where the constant +12V is available. For my 2018 ORP I fuse-tapped off one location for my under-hood light circuit with a fuse only in the upper position of the fusetap. No need for the second fuse because there is no OEM circuitry to power.

    You can see in the photos that the fuse blade grabbing clips are present only in the +12V side of the power buss. There are no clips in the circuit load side because there is no load assigned to this, it’s a blank, for future growth. So you can safely use this position to tap off constant 12V. Just make sure you understand the fusetap wiring layout so you insert it in the proper direction so the fuse is actually in series in your added circuit.

    There may also be ignition controlled +12V blank locations, however I have not mapped them out.

    4B437AFB-AA6E-470B-87D5-2E1171FE5226.jpg
    E0675B79-664E-4D36-9C24-F85272BA4ACF.jpg
    1A838E4F-5E57-4688-AB6F-88B7656DA66F.jpg
    0EB377A1-25E4-483A-A90D-93B65FAAE3EF.jpg
    B8D6821F-A972-46C5-AF28-E919BF1CE169.jpg
    3753CC17-0D71-4C39-8ECD-93C3ED0BA9A5.jpg
    5DAA2F62-9668-4D67-BBFE-80074890B2FF.jpg
     
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  10. Feb 5, 2022 at 6:13 AM
    #10
    DRUF23

    DRUF23 New Member

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    Why would that bolt matter? I ask because I just broke that bolt and nut combo and wondering if I need to figure out how to replace it ?
     
  11. Feb 5, 2022 at 6:24 AM
    #11
    glantzy

    glantzy [OP] New Member

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    The nut in question holds down the lug next to the fuse box, and without that lig making a secure connection, components like the blower for your hot and cold air will not work.
     
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  12. Feb 5, 2022 at 8:04 AM
    #12
    Sandbuster

    Sandbuster Breaking Wind

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    Power Commander, LED lights upgrade, Eibach Pro Truck Series suspension upgrade (front & rear), Airbags (rear), dash integrated trailer brake control, Body Armor front bumper, Smittybilt 10K winch
    "It" happens - we're all human which means we make dumb mistakes along the way but the good news is that you likely won't make this same boo boo again.. ;)
     
  13. Feb 5, 2022 at 11:20 AM
    #13
    DRUF23

    DRUF23 New Member

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    Thank you. Turns out it also impacts the alternator. Ugh. Getting it fixed and hoping the whole fuse box does not need to be replaced.
     
  14. Feb 5, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #14
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Did you overtighten it and broke the bolt, or strip the threads on the nut, so the whole thing spins?

    If that’s the case you should get to the dealer ASAP. That nut/bolt is the main 12V power to the engine fuse box. If it’s loose you can get intermittent power to all the connected circuits.
     
  15. Feb 5, 2022 at 1:19 PM
    #15
    Slopemaster

    Slopemaster Slope Survivalist

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    If you want to make toast, you gotta plug in the toaster. ;)
     
  16. Feb 5, 2022 at 3:40 PM
    #16
    DRUF23

    DRUF23 New Member

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    Overtightened and broke it. I rigged it up and brought to dealer. Now part takes 20 days to come in…. Wait for it. 500 bucks to fix. Ugh

    They rigged it back until it comes in. All because I didn’t want the raptor light to pinch under the fuse box cover. Lol. Lesson learned for sure.
     
  17. Mar 24, 2022 at 2:19 PM
    #17
    j4unner

    j4unner shootz brah..

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    what size fuse in located in the cabin fuse box left of the pedals (for a 2021 4R SR5P if that info is needed)..

    i need to purchase a couple circut fuse taps to run into the fuse box.. is it standard, mirco, mini, low profile mini?
    thinking about running it for constant power for the 2 way dash cam..

    I also installed some raptor lights the other week and I was going to run to the fuse box under the hood but it did not fit so I had to run wires through and down to plug into the cabin fuse box.. hope this makes sense..

    thanks million.. so many mods I was able to do with great info/pics being shared on forums..
     
  18. Mar 24, 2022 at 6:27 PM
    #18
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Pre-2020s are low profile mini fuses. I presume 2020+ are also.
    https://www.4runners.com/threads/mo...use-box-cover-wont-fit-now.17339/#post-202869

    01F0D9DF-77F5-409C-BD05-B0B08C99F9F6.jpg

    428C614A-B601-4C49-A57B-0B771F61694C.jpg
     
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  19. Mar 24, 2022 at 9:34 PM
    #19
    j4unner

    j4unner shootz brah..

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    ElectroBoy[QUOTED] likes this.

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