My 86 sr5 22re is bratty. Help Dr Phil.

So I've owned my truck for going on 4 years and it's been a badass daily driver. Taken me all over Texas. Back and forth to work. One fall mid way through it stopped wanting to start in the mornings when it was chilly. But would start fine in the afternoon once it warmed up a little. Started no problem in like 65 degree weather. As time went on it got worse and worse. I'd even tried starter fluid and it would start but die shortly after. But then in the afternoon run like nothing was wrong. Now it's summer. In the morning it's damn near 85 degrees and it doesn't want to do anything. Sometimes it starts in the afternoon still and I can drive it all over town with no issues. Sometimes it doesn't wanna start at all. At this point. I've cleaned the cold start injector, replaced the switch for the cold start injector, replaced the whole fuel pump AND bracket with a denso pump, replaced the AFM. I'm at least 500 bucks in on parts at this point and the truck is still sitting, and has been for a while now. Any idea on what this issue is? It's driving me mad because WHEN it does start. It runs beautifully. I've been super close to selling the truck and getting this mess out of my hair for a 3rd GEN 4runner. But I have ALOT of memories camping and whatnot in this one. PLEASE HELP ME KEEP MY 1st GEN!!!!!! Thanks in advance!!

 

Welcome to the forum, I’m guessing you tested the battery? And the wiring from chewing vermin?

 

Yes bought a new battery. It's definitely something to do with fuel. But it only gets fuel when it wants to. Has to do with the air outside or something. Ive never had an issue like this and I've been repairing my own cars for 15 years.

 

Did you check the actual spray pattern of the cold start injector? It doesn't much more than a speck of dirt to make it pretty much non-functional. Put it in a catch container, and see the actual spray pattern.

Did you check the fuel pressure AND volume? A pressure gauge on the CSI will give you the pressure, but not the volume. Pull the soft return line off the pressure regulator at the rear end of the fuel rail and place a clear tube on it, then into a catch container, preferably one that has calibrated markings. Put the jumper in the Fp-B+ connections of the test connections group. Turn the key to ON, or run, NOT to start, for 15 seconds. You should hear the fuel pump operate. I THINK (although as little as possible!) the requirement for the volume is 3 cu.in per 15 seconds.
If the volume is low, you have a partial fuel pump intake, or fuel line, blockage. Maybe the fuel filter?

Did you double check your timing?
The distributor cap and rotor? I've gotten bad ones from Napa. Hairline crack in the cap, making it not function, or function poorly.
Did you double check the valve settings? ALL the valves?
Did you check the Air Valve's operation? The one with the air line feeding the throttle body, and two water lines. The FSM has the procedure, but essentially it's open when the water is "cold", and closed when the water is "warmed up".

Did you check the electrical measurements of the Throttle Position Sensor? Did you verify no holes or leakage of air in the big intake tube from the AFM?

Did you check the ohm readings of the Ignitor, Coil, and Distributor? I understand, although it hasn't happened to me, yet, that the Ignitor can change it's resistance substantially when it warms up. Or hots up. Enough that it becomes non-functional. Again, refer to the FSM.

Did you double check all the vacuum lines? Both routing AND condition. Leaks, cracks, mis-routed, etc?

Welcome to the wonderful world of the older Toyotas. This is a journey that never ends
But you'll thoroughly enjoy it. I have so far
Pat☺