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Any one with kings #550 springs?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by DeleTrdPro, May 8, 2020.

  1. May 30, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #61
    DeleTrdPro

    DeleTrdPro [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for posting that sir. I appreciate it!
     
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  2. Sep 21, 2020 at 6:20 PM
    #62
    willch

    willch New Member

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    Got 600# with minimal weight and they’re treating me nicely
     
  3. Dec 30, 2020 at 1:53 AM
    #63
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    Just picked up this set!
    First set of coilovers so there’s a learning curve. Sounds like 550 should be okay for no added weight, I did get a set of springs with a spring rate of 600, but they’re black so I don’t really want to mix them up with the blue. from what I’ve been reading I can achieve 3” of lift? Yes I’ve read that prealoading that much can affect ride height but not too concerned about it. I’ve seen some people crank them and get about 4” of lift as well.
    thanks!

    42B3AD49-B99B-4103-8F0F-7A856E4A8ADF.jpg
     
  4. Dec 30, 2020 at 3:26 AM
    #64
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    @Mtbpsych The disclaimer that King has with lifting over the recommended 2.5", is that you effectively reduce the damping of a high dollar shock to be less than ideal. Yes ride height is a serious consideration, but you can achieve a 4" lift with Bilsteins and spacers, but the quality of that ride will be somewhat harsh. And, all of this is subjective to personal preference as well. What is a harsh ride to some, is acceptable to others.
    I think King has had complaints over the years that their ultra expensive shocks didn't ride any better than the Billy's someone used to have on their truck because they cranked the lift up over 3".
    With 550# springs you may be just fine. IMHO? Crank away and see what you think of the ride quality. It's not permanent, just a little bit of labor getting them back down to where your comfortable. I've been in trucks that would shake your fillings loose and ruin your kidney's, but the owner had no regrets. I've also been in trucks that felt like a shitty waterbed, sloshing all over the place because the spring rate and damping were designed for a different set up.
    On my 5th gen, I was told that all the weight I added would be too much for 600# springs, but when all the measurements are taken, it's right where it needs to be. I rebuilt them last year and learned about Nitrogen pressures and realized they were a little low, so with lower compression settings on the clickers, the springs would bottom out. Now with the fresh rebuild and 150 psi in the reservoirs, they are right where I want them.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2021
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  5. Dec 30, 2020 at 11:46 AM
    #65
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    Yeah I definitely expect to lose out on the quality of ride by going to 3”, but I don’t expect it to be too much since it’s only .5” than their recommended specs. The previous owner of the coilovers said that 550 was “squishy” but perfect for a stock front end, and I also have the 600 spring rate set in case I need them. I’ll definitely start at 2.5” and move my way up and compare ride quality.
    He did say that it’s possible to get 50k-100k miles out of the coilovers, dependent on use. He said that jumping, driving at high speeds on washboard roads, or just off roading every week would be why most people have to rebuild them at 30k-40k miles. True?
    Thanks for the help!
     
  6. Dec 30, 2020 at 2:43 PM
    #66
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    I suppose you could stretch the interval past 50 - 60k miles. If your just doing a 10 - 20 mile daily commute and that's the extent of your driving? Sure 100k is possible.
    I had been beating mine up pretty good, so I rebuilt at 50k miles. Not ever having done the job before, I couldn't tell you if the internals were worn that much, but the oil was black and I suspect that is what starts to cause exponential wear on the internals, similar to an engine. So going much past 60k miles might cost you more money in the long run, if the oil completely breaks down or you drop a seal and lose all pressure.
    One other thing, is to protect the shafts (I used the Pro Comp boots on the rear-post 60), and maintain them by keeping them clean and knocking down the pits of rust with some light grit emery every so often. Mine were trashed from neglect. I was able to salvage the fronts, but had to replace the rears because of the AWD on my LE kicking up all kinds of debris. Putting a light coat of grease on the wiper seals will help keep the grit from getting to them and causing early wear.
    Also can't say enough about proper Nitrogen pressure either. I could tell the difference on both my trucks right away, and my buddy with Kings on his Tacoma could tell the difference after I set his to the proper psi as well.
     
  7. Dec 30, 2020 at 2:57 PM
    #67
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    Gotcha, makes total sense! Work week commute is usually 20 miles a day, but weekends goes up more. I generally drive about 17k-20k miles a year, with about 3k-5k total miles of trail time that doesn’t include jumping or high speed runs lol. Well sounds like all I have to look out for is leaking or bad/worsening dampening. Did you have to put anything on the front? I’m planning on running my current fox 2.0 shocks in the rear, which are pretty inexpensive to replace if they get debris damage. I’m going to have the shop that installs them check the pressure to make sure everything is good to go for sure!
     
  8. Dec 30, 2020 at 3:38 PM
    #68
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    I've read that King has shaft guards but haven't seen them in use. I just try to get under there and keep them clean and knock the corrosion down with the emery when they need it. Matter of fact, I need to inspect them soon.
    One thing I'm leery of is shops that don't specialize in these types of set ups. Having them check the pressure properly can't be done with a regular air chuck. Just because they can bolt on a pair of shocks doesn't mean they are set up to check nitrogen pressures. But that's here in Florida where most people don't know what a King or a Fox shock is. And even if they do, they never thought about nitrogen pressure.
    You have to use a no loss chuck like this one, and use a nitrogen tank with a regulator that's rated to the higher pressures involved like the set up I put together in post #58. I put some old lines from an A/C manifold gauge set on my rig and they work great. If you don't think the shop is up to the task, after the install, maybe find a dirt bike or SxS/UTV shop, or some Tuner/drift guys that know what performance shocks really are. They would probably have a nitrogen tank set up. Hopefully your shop is a competent one.
    EDIT: Always check pressure with shocks at full droop.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2020
  9. Dec 30, 2020 at 4:02 PM
    #69
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    100%. The shop I’m taking it to actually specializes in off road equipment, and I works on all major coilover brands with rebuilding or building a custom tuned one. Definitely don’t trust a regular tire shop to be touching it lol. Thanks for all the help! Can’t wait to get them on test them out.
     
  10. Dec 31, 2020 at 2:14 PM
    #70
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    Anybody know where I can get a mounting bracket for the front reservoirs? I can’t seem to find any online.
     
  11. Dec 31, 2020 at 2:47 PM
    #71
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    You might have to buy a universal bracket and fabricate a mounting system, or call one of the vendors on Monday and see what they can dig up for you. You could also post up on Tacoma world and see if anyone has a used set laying around. I've seen where they are mounted horizontally along the frame (most likely a long travel set up) and mine actually fasten under the frame where the anti sway bar bolts up, and the res is oriented vertically. I think this is the OEM type set up.
     
  12. Dec 31, 2020 at 3:01 PM
    #72
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

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    Did you use a bracket or just some clamps on the frame?
     
  13. Dec 31, 2020 at 3:10 PM
    #73
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    Mine are brackets. I'm pretty sure it's the 4th and 5th gen non KDSS brackets that come on the OEM series.
     
  14. Feb 17, 2021 at 2:09 PM
    #74
    Daytonaviolet

    Daytonaviolet TRD Bro

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    just wondering, how many turns per side with the 550lb springs to achieve the 2 1/2” front ? so your at ~ 22 1/2" fronts now?

    can you measure the hub to fender distance.

    thanks.
     
  15. Feb 17, 2021 at 4:02 PM
    #75
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug Slightly bent.

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    It has settled a bit since the install, it is now 22 1/4” in the front with 6 threads showing and 24 1/4” rear.
     
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  16. Feb 17, 2021 at 4:43 PM
    #76
    Daytonaviolet

    Daytonaviolet TRD Bro

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    I’m mainly concerned of the fronts left and right. Are they both at 22 1/4 at 6 turns?

    im at 7 turns on the passenger at 23.5” with 600lbs springs. 11 turns drivers side 23.5”

    my concern is the number of turns difference from left to right
     
  17. Feb 17, 2021 at 4:52 PM
    #77
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug Slightly bent.

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    I have the 1/4” lean with both shocks at the same adjustment, didn’t bother me that much to try and change it.
     
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  18. Feb 17, 2021 at 4:55 PM
    #78
    Daytonaviolet

    Daytonaviolet TRD Bro

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    1/4 is not bad. I had close to 3/4
     
  19. Feb 17, 2021 at 6:25 PM
    #79
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug Slightly bent.

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    Yeah, that’s a little much.
     
  20. Feb 18, 2021 at 1:37 AM
    #80
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    That is odd, maybe the integrity of that spring is compromised. There is a little more weight drivers side but the 1/4" like SlvrSlug has would be normal. I guess you could try another set of springs, its just a lot of labor for an experiment. The only other thing would be to make sure both shock bodies measure out the same. Long shot I know, but strange things happen. EDIT: Another long shot, make sure they both say 600 lbs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2021
  21. Feb 18, 2021 at 5:46 AM
    #81
    ForRun

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    Between the 3 runners I’ve have they all vary. My pro was level side to side in the front but 3/4 rear. The 20 orp was 3/4 front and rear.
    When I went to lift, level I had to run the drivers side about 13 turns with the eibach coils.
     
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  22. Feb 18, 2021 at 7:27 AM
    #82
    Daytonaviolet

    Daytonaviolet TRD Bro

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    Well my front kings came with 550lbs and wanted some slightly stronger springs so I opted for 600lb to test out. But I found these used on IG. With the rack, sliders and low pro winch bumper otw, I think 650 or 700 is the way to go. 600lb was a test spring rate which was used. But during the install I noticed some rust on the lower parts parts of each coil. I wonder if that may have contributed to the height difference? Drivers side sagged more then passenger side. I plan to buy new 650 or 700 coils after installing my low pro winch bumper.
     
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  23. Feb 18, 2021 at 7:33 AM
    #83
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug Slightly bent.

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    Be sure to update us please, i am interested to see the results.
     
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  24. Feb 18, 2021 at 10:29 AM
    #84
    MI-FL off roader

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    Too many mods and too much money
    Yea, they could be compromised. With enough abuse anything can wear out. I'm curious as well. Keep track of which side is which and take some measurements of everything. You might find some variance that will tell the tale. I have a crap load of weight on 600s, and have been happy.
    I think you may do well with new 600 lb springs, but you may be happier with the 650s if height vs ride is what your aiming for. Good Luck!!
     
  25. Feb 18, 2021 at 11:32 AM
    #85
    Daytonaviolet

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    thanks. my end goal is to find the correct spring rate which allows me to maximize shock travel with little or no spring load.. but still provide me 23.5" (3.5") lift at the front (with low pro winch bumper, gobi rack, rsg sliders). i'm hoping 650 or 700 will do it. just not sure which one yet. let's see how much i sags when the winch bumper is installed :)
     
  26. Feb 18, 2021 at 11:42 AM
    #86
    AccuTune Offroad

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    You're wanting to "maximize shock travel" by having zero inches of down travel at ride height? Little to no spring load?
     
  27. Feb 18, 2021 at 11:54 AM
    #87
    Daytonaviolet

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    Yes if possible
     
  28. Feb 18, 2021 at 12:04 PM
    #88
    AccuTune Offroad

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    That will result in a very poor ride. I would suggest getting the proper spring rate for your vehicle and its added weight, and adjust coilovers to provide an adequate amount of up/down travel. You may want to check out this article to give you a better idea: https://accutuneoffroad.com/oem-front-coilover-shock-setup/
     
  29. Feb 18, 2021 at 1:53 PM
    #89
    Daytonaviolet

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    yes I’ve read that article before.

    What I’m trying to do is to adjust to height and not be topped out. From my understanding, being topped out is having too much pre-load and will not have adequate droop to follow the road. But I’m hoping with the right spring rate, less preload can be applied thus avoiding being topped out. I believe the extra weight (roof rack, sliders, winch bumper) will effect the right height depending on the spring rate chosen.

    are you also implying that 23.5” regardless of preload will cause me to be in the topped out ? Perhaps I’m reading this kings spec of 0-3” incorrectly. If I have no exposed coils, is that preload 0 ? With 600lb spring rate, drivers side is at 10 turns preload to get my 23.5”.

    if that’s the case, I may come done to 23”, but I didn’t think 0.5” was too much as these kings are rated for 0” - 3” of lift. Right out of the box, it has no preload but still provides 2” of lift.

    I have 2” icon springs in the rear which gives me 24” lift. I want a leveled look, thus why I wanted 23.5” front lift.
     
  30. Feb 18, 2021 at 2:45 PM
    #90
    AccuTune Offroad

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    Most of this is discussed in that article.

    Usually people add too much preload which equates to not enough droop and the shock riding around topped out, yes.

    Measurements we are referring to in that article are referring to the shock length. We never reference fenders to hubs. Remove the spring from the equation, topping out is referring the the shock. Too much preload OR too heavy or long of a spring can also make the shock be topped out at ride height.
    [​IMG]

    Threads showing is not preload.

     
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