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Brake pads and rotors

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by stewtopia, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. Mar 9, 2020 at 12:32 PM
    #1
    stewtopia

    stewtopia [OP] 4RunningTundra

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2018
    Member:
    #6423
    Messages:
    132
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2016 Silver SR5
    What are people using on their 4th Gens?
     
  2. Mar 9, 2020 at 4:46 PM
    #2
    chassis

    chassis New Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2019
    Member:
    #9754
    Messages:
    148
    Indiana
    Vehicle:
    Sold: 2005 4Runner SR5 V6 4WD
    I used dealer (OEM) parts on the 4th gen I ran for 206k miles.
     
  3. Mar 11, 2020 at 6:14 PM
    #3
    Cardoza27

    Cardoza27 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2019
    Member:
    #10252
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    12
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Anthony
    I actually just bought some "daily" rotors and pads from rockauto.
     
  4. Mar 13, 2020 at 3:25 AM
    #4
    stewtopia

    stewtopia [OP] 4RunningTundra

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2018
    Member:
    #6423
    Messages:
    132
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2016 Silver SR5
    Anyone running any performance rotors?
     
  5. Mar 23, 2020 at 4:19 PM
    #5
    r32

    r32 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2018
    Member:
    #8099
    Messages:
    689
    Originally posted in Mar 2018. So far, all continues to work well, except CV boot leak problem now, (i think) caused from slight lift by 5100s. Not enough articulation in stock CV's I guess. Time to change out my cv axels for new ones.

    2008 Sport 4WD

    Brake calipers (from Rock Auto)

    Centric 141.44287 (front right) - $128.79
    Centric 141.44288 (front left) - $128.79
    Centric 142.44587 (rear right) - $126.79
    Centric 142.44588 (rear left) - $126.79

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $19.98
    Total: $531.24

    141 series = unpainted calipers
    142 series = painted calipers with new parts

    Centric Parts Catalog
    Online Catalog | APC Automotive Technologies

    According to Centric's parts catalog website, there are no 142 series calipers available for the front. This means you will have to paint your front calipers if you want to prevent them from rusting within a few days of installing. Also note, the 142 series calipers have three different finishes from Centric, and as I understand it, it just depends on what caliper parts you order. The 142 series I received were not painted. Instead, they were zinc plated and already had a few small chipped areas where the zinc plating came off. Note, the 142 series calipers came with new brake pads. I threw these away as they are junk compared to the Akebono pads.

    Replacing front brake pads, rotors, and calipers on 2004 4Runner
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltY8COH6tGI&feature=youtu.be

    Replacing rear brake pads and rotors, and keep existing calipers on 2004 4Runner
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RO_IOXwZssM&feature=youtu.be

    Servicing brakes
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKpmBvfVYZg&feature=youtu.be

    Core returns

    How to recover core refund

    141.xxxx +$75 (x2)
    142.xxxx +$65 (x2)

    Total refund: $280

    Note, when doing a core return, Rock Auto is very specific about the following instructions.
    1. Old parts be returned using the same product boxes they were shipped in.
    2. Product boxes must be in good condition (not torn up, defaced, scraped up, or soaked in brake fluid, grease or anything else).
    3. Rock Auto provides bar code tags which must be attached to each return part.
    4. Pre-printed shipping note must be included in shipping box.

    If these conditions are not met, you may not get your refund. I found my old brake calipers to be quite dirty, as expected. Stupidly, I placed them back in the original boxes and one of the calipers leaked. Make sure they are not leaking, wipe off the calipers to remove some grime, and also place a shop paper towel in the bottom of the return boxes to help keep them from getting dirty. Rock Auto is very clear they want to reuse the boxes and the boxes must not be damaged. Unfortunately, one of the boxes that came with the new calipers was damaged with a hole punched in the bottom. I hope Rock Auto doesn't think I did that. We shall see.

    Although Rock Auto's website looks like it's from 1995 and is quite wonky, it's pretty easy to go on there and print return labels. I printed two labels, one for each pair of calipers and have two separate boxes to ship.
    • Total weight of front calipers: 26.3 lbs
    • Total weight of rear calipers: 18.8 lbs

    If you use Rock Auto's pre-printed labels for shipping, you will get a significant discount on shipping cost. They offer FedEx, DHL, and some other carrier as an option. I chose FedEx, and then called FedEx to schedule a pick up from my house. It was quite easy. This shipping cost is taken out of your refund by Rock Auto.
    • Total shipping costs for front calipers: $8.84
    • Total Shipping costs for rear calipers: $6.82

    Total shipping costs: $15.66

    ***

    Brake Rotors (from TH Motorsports)

    StopTech 126.44174SR (front right) - $80.42
    StopTech 126.44174SL (front left) - $94.33
    StopTech 126.44175SR (rear right) - $61.79
    StopTech 126.44175SL (rear left) - $76.82

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $0
    Total: $354.61

    Note about new rotors. Manufacturers apply a thin layer of grease on them to prevent rust during storage and shipping. You need to clean off this shipping oil before installing, otherwise the oil will contaminate your brake pads. Most people prefer to use brake cleaner or soap and warm water in the sink. If you wash them with soap and water, be sure to thoroughly dry them with a hair dryer or in the sun, if you're going to store them for a few days before install. If you put them back into their bags with water drops still in the cavities, water will seep out of the inside cavities and might bring some oil/grime back onto the surface and you'll have to clean them again right before install.

    ***

    Brake Pads (from Amazon)

    Akebono ACT976 (front) - $48.85
    Akebono ASP606 (rear) - $53.66

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $0
    Total: $102.51

    ***

    Stainless Steel Brake Lines (from TH Motorsports)

    Stoptech 950.44007 (to front calipers) - $41.25

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $0
    Total: $41.25

    Stainless Steel Brake Lines (from Amazon)

    StopTech 950.44507 (to rear calipers) - $48.40

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $0
    Total: $48.40

    Rubber Brake Lines (from Amazon)

    Centric 150.44397 (rear axle) - $18.91 each (x2)

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $3.12
    Total: $41.00

    Stainless steel lines from Stoptech are not available for rear axle, so I ordered rubber hoses instead. There are a total of six brake lines.

    ***

    Misc. stuff for new brakes installation

    (from Amazon)

    3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste - $19.55
    Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant - $12.33
    G2 Brake Caliper Paint System Kit - $48.96

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $6.66
    Total: $87.53

    (from local Walmart)

    Super Tech CA Compliant Brake Cleaner - $2.97

    Tax: 0.25
    Total: $3.22

    If you care about this sort of thing, you might want to buy the brake cleaner locally, to ensure it's complaint with your state's regulations. California likes to regulate everything under the sun, so I wanted to make sure I bought CA compliant brake cleaner.

    Painting Brake Calipers
    https://youtu.be/xF0skQC8WyE

    ***

    Shocks (from Amazon from Wheelers)

    Bilstein 5100 24-239370 (front)
    Bilstein 5100 33-187174 (rear)

    Bilstein 5100 Shock Kit - $377.37

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $31.13
    Total: $408.50

    ***

    Coils (from Wheelers)

    Wheelers T1 (front) - $159.99
    Wheelers T12 (rear) - $159.99

    Shipping: $30.50
    Tax: $0
    Total: $349.49

    I should have bought my shocks and coils at the same time from Wheelers. Instead, I ordered shocks through Amazon, and coils through Wheelers website. But if I did it all from Wheelers, then I could have gone with their strut-assembly service for an extra $95. It's a little expensive but worth it if don't want to deal with possibly having a spring compression tool come loose and break something on your body. Or if you don't want to deal with a local shop who might mess things up. You'll need to assemble the front struts which in include the struts, coils, and top hat / bushing kits from KYB.

    ***

    KYB Top Hats and Bushings (from Amazon)

    KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit - $25 (2x)

    Shipping: $50.68
    Tax: $4.18
    Total: $54.86

    Word of caution when getting your strut assemblies put together. I called a local tire and suspension shop and the guy on the phone quoted me a total of $75 to put together both strut assemblies. I took the new front shocks (24-239370), T1 springs (from Wheelers), and KYB mount kits (1 for each front shock) in and gave the mechanic a printed diagram (which I will upload later). Diagram is the from the factory manual and shows the exact orientation of bolt alignment to spring.

    First, they got the alignment wrong. There is a specific alignment the bolt pattern must be. I called and they said to stick a large punch into the bottom hole during install and twist it. A bit annoyed but ok, it does seem like it will rotate on the lock ring.

    Second, they over-tightened the lock nut on top and caused the top bushing to expand beyond the metal washer, so it's completely distorted. They did this on both assemblies, possibly damaging the top bushing. I called friends who are in the know. Half of them said don't sweat it, as when you install it, the weight of the vehicle will compress the shock and relieve the pressure on the top bushing that is smashed, and as long as they are damaged, they should be ok. The other half said it must be fixed. Unfortunately I didn't notice this problem until I got home. So I called Wheelers. Nice guys over there btw. They told me not to worry about it and said the same thing several friends stated in that the weight of the vehicle will relieve the pressure and it should be ok.

    Also, there is no torque specification for the lock nut that holds the the assembly together. I was confused on this a bit as the manual states the torque should be 18ft lbs. However, the guys at the local ship did not torque it at all to spec. It's supposed to be tightened to a position that holds everything together nicely and that's it. Wheelers confirmed this also when I asked them on the phone, and they said there is no torque spec on this nut.

    If I had to do this again, I would have gladly paid Wheelers for their $95 in-house strut assembly fee to save all this hassle with local shops.

    ***

    Grip Replacement for Hatch (from Amazon)

    4Runner Hatch Grip Replacement - $14.59

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $1.71
    Total: $16.30

    A known problem with 4th gens are the back latch melting in hot climates. My turned into a gooey mess with the consistency of silly putty. Black started to come off on my finger when I'd lift my hatch open. A much worse problem is that it would keep depressing the actuator to open the hatch at random times while I was driving. This frustrated me for over a year as I never could figure out why it was happening. Then finally I realized the melted rubber was jammed into the hole where the actuator was and caused it to stick. I ordered this kit off ebay.

    Before you install the new handle, take some wide painters tape and put some pieces on the paint around the immediate area of your latch. Place one piece above the hatch to keep black goo off when you're cleaning things up. Take a second piece and cover the area immediately below the screws. The screwed are angled as such that it's a pain in the ass to get them off, even with an angled screwdriver. As you remove the screws, the L bend in the screwdriver will start scrapping your paint on every turn. The tape will help protect from scratches. Double up the tape pieces for extra protection.

    Remove the screws, and you can easily pop out the entire plastic casing that holds the button. It's shaped like a long narrow box, with a long narrow piece on top for the button cover. Be careful removing this button cover because there is a tiny spring behind it which will come flying out. Once you get it out, remove the button cover entirely, and also remove the bent wire (similar to paper clip) that it hinges on. Be careful with that little spring. I took it into the kitchen and removed all the good with goo off. It took over half an hour to get it completely clean and like new. Simply reassemble and pop the casing back into your rear door. Then put on the new latch and you're done. I love the new latch. Great design. Works perfectly.

    ***

    Differential Oil (from local AutoZone)

    Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil SAE 75W-90 1 qt.
    Part Number: 104361

    Cost: 12.99 (x6)

    Tax: $6.43
    Total: $84.37

    I use the same Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil for differential and transfer case. Works great.

    ***

    Fluid Transfer Pump (from local Oreilly's)

    Performance Tool Fluid Pump - $9.99

    Tax: $0.82
    Total: $10.81

    ***

    Various Washers (from local Toyota Dealership)

    Toyota Part: 12157-10010 - $1.49 (3x)

    Front differential fill gasket
    Rear differential fill gasket
    Rear differential drain gasket

    Toyota Part: 90430-24003 - $1.95 (1x)

    Front differential drain gasket

    Toyota Part: 90430-18008 - $1.70 (2x)

    Transfer case fill gasket
    Transfer case drain gasket

    Tax: $0.81
    Total: $10.63

    Changing Differential and Transfer Case Oil

    Changing your differential oil can be a bit of a challenge. The reason is you need to have your truck parked on flat ground. In the rear, once you remove the spare tire, there is plenty of room to work. In the front, once you remove the skid plate, you'll discover there is very little room to work. For the fill plug in the front differential, you're going to need a very short torque wrench. I would say a 14" model at the most. It's really tight in there if your vehicle is on the floor. There's just not enough room to crank a long handle wrench a single click. Also, it is vital you remove the fill plug first. The reason is if you can't remove the fill plug, but then you drain your differential oil, you're stuck. It helps to spray PB16 on the fill and drain plugs the day before. Let that stuff soak in overnight. It will help you break loose the plugs. The rear drain plug took a lot of convincing to break loose. See video above for torque specs and everything you need to know.

    Be aware. Differential oil stinks like no other. It is a pretty sickening smell. And it's so strong, the drain pan I used still smells like it and it's been weeks since I changed it. I will probably have to throw it out or pour a bunch of odor eating sand into it. Nasty stuff. Wear a mask and definitely gloves and do everything you can to minimize splatter and spill.

    ***

    Torque Wrenches (from Amazon)

    Tekton 24330 3/8-Inch Drive (10-80 ft.-lb.) - $35.15
    Tekton 24340 1/2-Inch Drive (25-250 ft.-lb.) - $52.59

    Shipping: $0
    Tax: $7.24
    Total: $94.98

    Tired of borrowing, so I bought a couple torque wrenches. They are both listed on Amazon as popular choices and have a ton of reviews. They worked great. For the price, I don't think they can be beat, unless you need absolute accuracy and want to pay hundreds of dollars. These are shipped and calibrated with accuracy of +- 4%.

    ***

    Rear Window Wiper Blade Fix

    SureWipe Universal: Add-on Wiper Arm Pressure Spring Set (pack of 2) - $13.50

    Shipping: $4.99
    Tax: $0
    Total: $18.49
     
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    #5
    OneWhoWonders and epotts26 like this.

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