First Generation Questions

Hey People, I have a question for my 84-85 4Runner owners. I want to lift my 4Runner 1.5-2 inches but i seem to only be able to find 3 inch lift kits. Would y'all know of any places that might offer these types of lifts? I Found a 3 inch Rough Country suspension lift kit https://www.roughcountry.com/toyota...15-20.html?find=1984-toyota-pickup-4wd-387102 which seems to be the most reasonable, but I'm just looking for y'alls input thanks

 

summit racing has 1" and 2" lift springs

 

Thanks Ill check there next.

 

They also have OME

 

You may try St. Louis Spring Company http://www.saintlouisspring.com They make what ever lift you want for what ever vehicle and ship it pretty quick...I hope this helps

 

st louis spring does not have access to front leaf springs is what they told me

 

I have a nearly brand new RC 3” full lift kit with Springs I’d happily part with. Sitting in my garage collecting dust and needs a home. I’m on east coast so message if interested.

 

Hey guys another question and issue, on my 84 i'm having speaker issues where only one side plays music at a time i've put in new speakers and it still does it. Also when the speakers switch to the side that's working the driver side is significantly quieter than the passenger side when it starts working again. It does have the stock double din radio in it as well i'm unsure if that's the issue or not. Have any of yall experienced this issue aswell or is it just me?

 

The only time that happens to me is when my AUX cable is messing up. Those cheap 3.5 jack cables always seems to fail in our cold/hot climate. Could just be the stereo giving out.

 

Yeah that was what i thought so i just replaced the 36 year old radio and i got my speakers to finally work together

 

"Add a leaf" would give you around a inch.

 

I would do an add a leaf but all 4 of my springs are starting to give especially the front springs

 

Iron man 4x4 and old man emu. Both brands are 2” lifts.

 

Thanks man

 

I have a question, I want to put a first gen Tacoma rear axle 95.5-00 trd offroad just wondering the compatibility of that axle with the 84 4runner axle and what the differences are between them. Type of axle spline,brakes, axle shafts all of it. any help is better than no help thanks.

 

Here's some good info
https://www.roundforge.com/articles/toyota-axle-widths/#Toyota_Axle_Swap_Issues_

 

On my 84 4Runner i put a new battery and alternator in it. It kept saying the voltage regulator was bad so i just put a new voltage regulator in it and its still saying the voltage regulator is bad. Also when i put the new alternator in it the battery and e-brake light wouldn't come on until i put the new voltage reg in. At this point im extremely confused any help is appreciated

 

Did you check the codes the ECM may have stored up?
Make sure you clear out the old ones by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 seconds. Or the negative lead off the battery works too.

Did you check the wiring from the alternator to the battery and so forth? I've had this kind of thing happen when the wires got loose inside the alternator electrical plug, making bad or no contact.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

I ditched the old external regulator for an internal reg alternator. Also upgraded the wiring from the harness to the newer style found in early 90's 4runners.

 

Another question, when i get down to approx. 5/6 gallons in the gas tank my 4runner starts to buck like its starving fuel, ive replaced the carb and the fuel filter to try to fix the issue but im a loss for words its not the fuel pickup, i just dont know what to do to fix without throwing a whole bunch of money at it. TIA for any advice or help.

 

Keep in mind that there's no certainty that your gauge is 100% accurate. It might SAY 5/6 down, but are you, really? Especially down that far. The gauge pickup might be detecting more fuel than the pump can access.

Second, remember that the pickup on the pump can get dirty. There's a screen over it. If it's gotten some gunk on it somehow, without the weight of the fuel above it pushing fuel through the screen, the pump might have a little trouble maintaining pressure in the system.

Finally, remember that the pump intake is somewhat twords the rear of the tank. When you go down hill, or slow down, or whatever, the fuel, being that low, might move away from the pump's intake. When you go downhill, or slow down, does your warning light flicker, or come on, and then go off once the condition has cleared? Once the truck is level, or you accelerate/stop, thus allowing the fuel to move back to the pump inlet again?

That's all I can think of, right off the bat. I'm sure others will have more ideas.
Good luck!
Pat☺

 

My pickup didn’t have a screen on it and the pump is on the engine and my fuel gauge doesn’t work I know I have a 17 gallon tank atleast when I get it running after words and fill it up it’s typically about 11 gallons I put in it

 

Ok, I misunderstood.

i thought 4Runners had 22R-E engines. The fuel injected engine. Are we talking about a 22R engine? If it has a carb, I'm guessing it's a 22R. Or did you mod the truck to have a fuel pump on the engine?

I am obviously massively confused, which isn't a surprise. I tend to live that way

You did say you had replaced the fuel filter, yes? Is it one of the small ones back on the PS frame rail under the bed, or the one on the side of the engine? If you did replace it, was it clogged up with gunk? Especially, was it clogged up with rust flakes? If so, did you try blowing out the fuel lines with compressed air, to ensure nothing is in them, partially clogging them?

According to THE book, there should be a screen on the pickup pipe in the tank. Did you take it off? Did you inspect the inlet pipe in the tank for cracks, that might be allowing air to get sucked in when the fuel gets below a certain level? If it doesn't have a screen, could there be a small amount of gunk in the tank, partially clogging the inlet pipe in the tank when the fuel gets low enough?

When it starts bucking, can you get to the carb and check the window, to be sure there's fuel where it should be in the bowl? Right about the level of the little indicators on the sides?

Does the pickup pipe in the tank go all the way down to the bottom, or is it a modified pipe that sits well above the bottom, thus allowing air to get sucked in when the fuel moves around while driving? Like I said, when the truck is on a downhill, or slowing down, the warning light will come on, then go back off when the condition is changed.

I've driven my pickup, with a 22R engine in it, down until it started coughing and chugging. Lack of fuel, and the light was on. My pickup only has a 13 gallon tank in it, verified when I refueled it after that. It actually only took about 11.5 gallons on the refuel. I figured the rest was slop in the tank, and the fuel in the lines, pump, carb, etc.
My 4Runner has a 15.5 gallon tank. Could yours have a 13 gallon tank?

I'm just trying to think of anything I can that could be the trouble, you know?
Good luck to you on this!
Pat☺

 

Yes mine does have the 22r, yes I have replaced the in line fuel filter on the frame rail it has a 17 gallon fuel tank and the pickup is just 2 pipes that go down into the tank one is curved at the end to allow it to sit just above the bottom of the tank I didn’t take a screen off of the pickup. Typically I can let it sit for about 10 minutes or so and it’ll fire right up and drive for atleast another hour without bucking, could it be vapor lock or a failing mechanical fuel pump? Thanks

 

OK, cool.
Now we are all on the same page.

Yes, 2 pipes, one curved at the bottom (the pick up pipe), and one that is very short (the return pipe). The book shows a screen that looks like a duck's bill on the pick up pipe. Not important right now, though, other than there's a possibility that something got into the pipe without it there. When you replaced all the goodies, did you try blowing the system out with some compressed air, to be certain? "Stuff" can get stuck, usually at the corners in the hard pipes and fuel lines.

Also, check the fuel lines, hard AND soft, all the way from the tank to the pump. Even a slight constriction, like a crimp, even a small one, or a bent hardline, can be very effective at slowing the supply to the pump enough that the fuel in the bowl gets low.

I'm wondering, could the fuel cap not be allowing air to get in fast enough at times, thus causing a slight vacuum in the tank? That would certainly cause what you're seeing. These mechanical fuel pumps aren't really all that good at sucking, so to speak.
IIRC, there's two kinds of fuel caps. One for the 4Runners with the electric fuel pump pressurizing the system for the injectors, and one for the trucks with the carbed engines, that just need to supply fuel fast enough to keep the bowl in the carb at the right level.

And yes, it could be a weak pump, not sucking fuel when it get's low enough in the tank. Once again, though, when it gets low enough, it can go below the level of the pipe, allowing it to suck air. When you are slowing, going downhill, or uphill, or whatever.

Have you also checked the charcoal canister, according to the book? If it's valves aren't opening/closing correctly, once again, slight vacuum in the tank, low fuel supply to the carb. That's where the "supply" to the short pipe going into the tank comes from.

Keep us up to date
Pat☺

 

It did it Tuesday right after I filled up the tank which makes me think it is a fuel pump issue.

 

Could well be, no doubt.

Thankfully, they're a lot easier to replace on the 22R than on the R-E
Also, pretty available.

Give it a shot. At the very worst, you'll now have a replacement fuel pump sitting on the shelf for when the newest one fails. Sooner or later, it will, too.

I'm still having thoughts about the fuel filler cap, and the valves in the charcoal canister. Just as possibilities. The first is very inexpensive, and easy to replace (duhh...), the second is right out in the open, easy to check, and easy to replace, should the need arise. Get a length of vacuum line to use to blow into the different ports, though. The originals will taste like fuel. Ick!

Keep us informed!
Pat☺

 

I sent stock ones down to Tampa and they re-arc for me. Got 3 1/4" out of the front and 2.5 on rear. It created a stabilizer attachment problem, which Viking fabricated us one 5 " long center to center with 1.5" travel

 

Hey guys, I just did a head job on my 84 4Runner, it idles pretty good but it’s dieseling it’s in dead zero was wondering if y’all had any ways of figuring if it’s a timing issue still or if the carb is just that out of wack, thanks

 

There's an anti-dieseling valve on the carb.

Note the green arrow. The "solenoid valve" cuts the fuel flow off when the vehicle is shut down.

If you mean that it's doing it while running, you may well need to adjust the idle mixture screw. Red arrow. You'll need to drill out the plug covering it, but be very cautious not to drill into the actual screw itself.
I can put up the procedure for adjusting the idle mixture properly.

First, though, check the jets for clogs, etc. Very small pieces of dirt can clog up the jets.
Also, you should verify the fuel level maintained in the bowl. It should be right about the center of the viewing window on the front of the carb. Where the two pointers are in the window. It should remain there when the truck is running, no matter how fast the engine RPM is.

Finally, on the 22R engine, not the 22RE, but the 22R, the timing should be set to 12° with the vacuum lines attached to the distributor, and the engine warmed up. IE: The choke completely off. The RPM about 750-800 RPM.

Double check all the vacuum lines for the correct routing, connections, and that there are no leaks. The routing can be verified with the sticker on the hood, upper left corner when it's open.

Does any of that help at all?
Pat☺