SR5 Crawl Control / MTS Mod Success!

Hi all, this is my first thread, other than my new member one. So apologies in advance if it is not formatted right. Hopefully I can get everything figured out. I wasn't really sure on how to write it all up, but was excited and wanted to share what I'd done! Everything works just like a factory Trail/TRD model!


I have a 2015 SR5 4Runner, and a few months back I started to research about whether or not I could add crawl control to it. Initially I didn’t find anything, and then I stumbled across this forum: .

I read through everything and found the article too:

https://tctmagazine.net/spring-2016/2015-4runner-sr5-crawl-control-retrofit.

I read through thoroughly and over the next few weeks purchased a TIS subscription to get the wiring diagrams and calibration instructions. I gradually ordered parts and then spent a Saturday doing all the wiring, installing the new parts, and completing the calibrations. It worked perfectly!

So, I want to give full credit to gilpinbrewer! I just wanted to share what I had done as well, and maybe make it a little easier to follow now that it has been 10 years since the original was posted. Ironically he did this on a 2015 Runner too. It was relatively easy to source parts, and I got them for much less than I was anticipating.


Parts list -


Here is a general list of parts, I will not list specific part #'s because they can differ.

1. Trail Edition or TRD Body Control Module

While searching for this I was honestly confused. Most are under different names but are the same part. On Ebay it is referred to as a "Multiplex Network Control Module." This is what I used to search for a part. It is VERY important to get one from a Trail or TRD trim. They have different programming, and have the pins enabled for crawl control to work. One other thing is that some of them have part #'s that correspond to non Trail/TRD trims. The one I ordered actually has the part number from a limited trim. All that matters is the programming on the BCM.


2. Trail Edition or TRD Speedometer Cluster


I will explain later on why you must replace this. But it MUST come from a Trail or TRD trim level. I purchased a used one, and am having it reprogrammed to my current mileage to remain legal.


3. Trail Edition or TRD Overhead Console


You can get these with or without the Drive Monitor Switch (the actual crawl control/mts dials) but I found that it is much cheaper to buy a unit that already has one included. I got a unit that added Homelink functionality.


4. Miscellaneous Extras


You'll need wire, gilpinbrewer used 22 gauge and so I did too. You will also need the Toyota connectors to add wires into the existing connectors. I skipped this because they were expensive, and just temporarily secured with a dab of hot glue until I can get the OEM connectors cheaper. I also used butt connectors on one connection.



Getting Started -


For those that hadn't read the article, I'll try to summarize all that information and hopefully make it more simple if you do not have the wiring diagrams handy. I highly recommend getting the TIS and downloading them, it makes it much easier to follow. There are four main differences between the models with crawl control and the models without crawl control. They are:

1. The SR5 BCM doesn't have the trail/TRD firmware flashed that enables the crawl control system to work. In addition, it has the CANN + CANP pins disabled. These two carry the signals for crawl control, and are what allow the drive monitor switch to talk to everything else.
2. The SR5 cluster doesn't have the programming to display when the systems are active (with a dash light) and can't show the different modes for MTS on the screen.
3. The SR5 doesn't have the physical crawl control dial/switch. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Finally, the SR5 doesn’t have the wiring that the trail/TRD models have. I will explain the specifics below.

Before anything, disconnect battery. When I was installing everything, It was much easier to complete all of the wiring first, and then install the parts. You need to add 5 wires for everything to work. I will reference connectors, and then show where they are in photos. All wiring is present from the crawl control switch until you get to the driver side A-pillar. All additional wiring starts at connector FS1. This is the white connector in the driver side A-pillar. The first two wires are the CAN High (CANP) and CAN Low (CANN). Pictured below, these are the Black (CANP) and White (CANN) wires. Next is LINT. This is a connection from the Drive Monitor Switch to the cluster; it tells the rest of the car when crawl control is active & what it's doing. It's the right most green wire. The final two wires are +B (Blue) and IG (Green). +B is the always hot connection from the battery, while IG is only on when the ignition is in ON position. These are what power the system.


FS1 Below


Ignore the larger red and black wires running up the A-pillar, those are from another project - adding running board lights that connect to the dome light for power.


I first ran the LINT wire through to the back of the cluster. It starts from pin #10 on FS1, and goes to pin #6 on the cluster connector (F14). Pictured below.



F14




Next, I ran the two CAN wires. CANP (black wire) starts at pin #7, and CANN (white wire) starts at pin #8. They both need to be routed straight down to the BCM. It is above the parking brake. I have a photo below. The wires need to be routed to F10, which is the bottom most connector. CANP needs to go to pin #9, and CANN needs to go to pin #10. Pictured below.





BCM and F10





Now, the final two wires to install are the +B and IG. Based on the wiring diagrams these can be wired to any constant and ignition power source. However, I wanted to be 100% sure that I did it right, so I ran them like the trail/TRD editions have it. They have the wires tapped into the steering sensor. To access you do have to remove the bottom cover of the steering wheel and remove some of the things plugged in. It is a blue connector, pictured below. So, +B starts at pin #11 on FS1, and IG starts on pin #12 on FS1. I routed them straight down and then to the steering sensor. I did originally use T-taps, but they were too big to hold reliably. I ended up replacing with the heat shrink butt connectors. I just cut the wires and added one in, then repaired. Pictured below. +B ends up at pin #6, and IG on pin #5. The blue steering sensor connector is F19.



F19







That is all the wiring you will have to complete, next, just install parts. The BCM will fall out to the right when tab at the top is pressed down. You may have to temporarily remove some stuff to get it out. The new one is plug and play. Same for the cluster, just remove the old one and slide the new one in. Finally, remove the SR5 upper console and put the new one in. I purchased one with Homelink to add it, previously my 4Runner didn’t come with it. It's plug and play, no extra wiring. Before calibration, reconnect battery and turn ignition on. You should see the MTS lights come on briefly. This indicates that it is receiving power.



Overhead Console



The photo shows just one light on...when you turn ignition on, all lights should briefly turn on.

New cluster




Assuming the lights came on, all that is left is the calibration!



Calibration -



This needs to be done on level ground or else it will fail. You need to have the car in park and the key out. You must do two things, clear current calibration memory, and then the calibration for crawl control. You can use a Techstream, but they are expensive. So I just used the jumper wire. The whole process is outlined in the repair manual, but I will list steps here too.

1. Clear zero point memory
   1. On a level surface, ensure the steering wheel is centered, shift lever in P, and ignition switch OFF.
   2. Turn ignition ON
   3. Allow ABS + slip indicator to come on solid for three seconds. This indicates the initial check has been completed.
   4. Using a jumper wire, connect terminals 12 and 4 of the DLC3 4 or more times within 8 seconds.
   5. The slip indicator should come on
2. Perform the zero point calibration of yaw rate and acceleration sensor
   1. Turn ignition OFF
   2. Ensure steering wheel is centered and shift lever in P
   3. Using the jumper wire, connect terminals 12 and 4 of the DLC3
   4. Turn the ignition switch ON
   5. Keep the vehicle stationary for 5 seconds or more
   6. The slip indicator should blink rapidly
   7. Turn ignition OFF
   8. You are meant to drive straight going 25mph or more for at least 10 seconds after all this, but I did it after the crawl control calibration.
3. Crawl Control Calibration
   1. Turn ignition OFF
   2. Using jumper wire, connect terminals 12 and 4 of the DLC3
   3. Turn ignition switch ON
   4. Push the crawl ON/OFF switch to make sure that the light on the dash comes on when pressed.
   5. Turn the selector to L (LOW)
   6. Turn the selector to medium-low
   7. Turn the selector to M (MEDIUM)
   8. Turn the selector to medium-high
   9. Turn the selector to H (HIGH)
   10. Turn the selector to L (LOW)
   11. Turn the ignition switch off

With that, it should be calibrated and should work. I did the thing where you drive straight for 10 seconds at 25mph to be sure that didn’t mess with anything else. I then shifted to 4Low and messed around with it for about half an hour! Exited that it worked! I am looking forward to testing more on the trails. It was a fun project to install. It only cost around $600 for the parts, so I am pleased.






I would love some guidance on whether or not I can include a page or two of the wiring diagrams. I do not want to get in trouble for sharing paid stuff when I shouldn't.



Please reach out with any questions or comments! I would love to help if I can. I have checked for errors, but I'm not perfect! The Toyota wiring diagrams are always best! Again, credit goes to gilpinbrewer! I couldn't have done it without his posts! I hope that this is clear enough to follow more easily. I think it's a fun thing to add functionality, especially with more wrecked cars in the junkyards. You could probably get parts even cheaper. If more info on acquiring parts is needed, let me know and I can help guide! Thanks!

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention - when you do the crawl control calibration, the DAC calibration data is wiped. You can't have both at the same time. Also, I removed the DAC switch and kept the OEM rear locker switch so I can use that when I add a locker. For now it doesn't do anything

 

Holy hell of a first thread. Good job man!

 

Good job dude, enjoy!

 

Nice work sir!

 

Absolutely awesome thread.

 

Thank you!

 

Welcome and that is some dedication. Kudos my man.

 

Welcome

 

wow!
Welcome sir.

 

I will never, ever, do this to my Limited, but I read through the whole post because it was so well done!

 

I'd like to get rid of all those nanny buttons but, alas, it would probably create different nanny's to rear their ugly heads.

 

Welcome

 

What sort of wheelin' do you do that you felt the need for this mod? I have an SR5 and a winch. I'm not hating, but I am curious.

 

Not really for the wheeling honestly. It's a nice feature to have if you're stuck in sand in some situations, but other than that I'm not too sure when I'll use crawl control. I've read that MTS works pretty good. Initially I will be using it just to see what it is like. Mostly put it in because I enjoy more in depth mods like this. It was fun for me, and I learned a crap ton about how these systems work. It also wasn't too pricey, so I don't mind.