Plastic Oil Filter Cap Question

Greetings all, I’m changing my engine oil and filter this evening on my 2022 T4R.

Regarding the plastic oil filter cap with the drain plug on it- I have not been changing out that small black rubber O-Ring on that drain plug when I do my oil changes. Is this something I should be doing? I don’t want the O-Ring that’s been on there for my previous 4 oil changes to go bad and start leaking.

Let me further explain- I AM NOT removing that drain plug from the plastic cap at all when I remove the cap. I just unscrew the filter cap as a whole and lower it- the oil that’s trapped up there just drops in to my big drain pan on the floor. Then I just clean up the cap, put the new large O-Ring on the cap by the threads, and reinstall. So I’m just worried about whether I should be replacing that small O-Ring from time to time just so it doesn’t go bad / deteriorate, and start leaking. Right now, so far, I’ve seen no sign of leakage at that point.
Thanks for any advice.

 

That’s a interesting question somebody with a lot more experience than myself will be chiming in here, I don’t see why you would need to change it if you never remove that plug..

 

Not sure why you wouldn't remove it and drain the oil out of the filter. Much less mess. IF you use the MotivX drain tool. The cheapo ones that come with the filters are worthless. But, if you choose to never drain the filter and remove that plug, there's no reason to change the o-ring. Good gawd, that must be an awful mess, but to each their own.

 

Most dealer techs don't bother with the filter housing drain either, which means that O-ring doesn't get changed in 90% of 5th gens. If the O-ring isn't disturbed, it doesn't need to be changed. There are similar oil system O-rings elsewhere in the engine that potentially last the life of the engine if they aren't disturbed.

 

My 2-cents, if it ain't leaking leave it alone.
When/if you start to see leakage, (probably won't be much initially), THEN you can go ahead and put a new one in.

 

I do exactly like you do during my oil changes.
In the last few years, I have not touched that O ring and I don't intend to . Just crossed 200k.

No leaks, no explosion, no engine turning into a ball of fire.

 

I only removed the drain plug part for the first couple oil changes. Now I just put a socket extension in square hole and remove the entire filter housing. I haven’t had any issues yet.

 

OK, thank you for the replies. It’s not all that messy. I remove the engine oil pan drain bolt first, to let the bulk of the oil drain out of the pan. Then I remove the plastic oil filter cap. I drape a plastic grocery bag over a piece of the frame or whatever it is there that’s partly under the filter end cap to keep oil from getting on that frame support area. Then I use a big plastic pan to catch whatever oil comes out once the filter cap comes loose. Again, not too bad.

Man I wish that dip stick was easier to read. They should engrave or stamp some sort of cross-thatch grooves on that dip stick between the low and full marks. I can’t see the new oil showing up on it.

I let the old oil drain out for a long time from the oil pan and filter housing- like an hour or so. When I put the fresh oil in, I just put 6.5 quarts in and call it good. I just can’t see the new oil on that piss poor dip stick. I’ll leave the skid plate shields off while I let the engine run for a bit up Che k got leaks under there.

Over time and some mileage, I can start seeing the oil on the stick when I check it. It’s always just at or a hair below the full mark.

As I’ve mentioned here before, I’m doing my oil and filter changes at 5,000 miles or at the 6 month mark, whichever comes first.

 

Like most other people said, I wouldn't even worry about that o-ring - it's a non-issue if you never remove the drain bolt.

Specific to your above statement that I quoted, an easy trick to read the oil on the dipstick when it's new oil is to insert the dipstick, remove the dipstick, and then immediately place the dipstick on a clean flat paper towel set on your workbench or other horizontal surface. The oil that's on the dipstick will seep onto the paper towel and you'll be able to visualize the line where the oil is much easier by looking at the wet spot on the paper towel.

 

Lightly run a file across the dipstick in two directions at 45 degrees. It traps the oil and makes the level visible. My Gen 4 and Gen 4s had the same issue and solution.

 

Great idea, thanks MeefZah.

 

Another great idea, thanks BillF’.

Say, out of curiosity. Would anyone happen to know how the engine oil filters are on the new sixth gen 4Runners, with that tiny piss ant 4 banger? Are the engine oil filters a replaceable inner cartridge with an end cap like our legendary 4.0L V-6s, or are they “spin-on” style of filter?

 

YZZN1 spin on type.

 

That O-ring does not need to be changed for at least 10 years if the drain plug is not touched. Even the large O-ring is good for at least 5 oil changes before it needs attention (as long there is no dirt contamination). Since the O-ring is included with the filter change it out at your leisure.

 

every filter comes with the small cap o ring and filter housing o ring. I change both at every oil change

 

You could probably go a long time without touching it since it’s not even the primary seal.

That thing you gotta open up with the plastic tool has to leak first before the screw and o-ring enter the picture.

I’ve done changes both draining the filter housing and not, haven’t really decided which I prefer yet.

 

The opposite is also true. If you removed the filter drain plug for any reason, doesn't matter if it's been 10 days or 10 months, the O-ring should be replaced.

 

I don't change it until about 100k. It's just a double mess changing it. Mess with it to often and it's another leak in waiting.

 

I find oil changes to be messier when you dont pop the cap to drain everything out of the filter housing.

 

Huh, the little guy. I'm pretty sure that's what's on our Rav4 as well.

 

Same. I got lazy last time and skipped the drain (couldn't get the tool to seat), and deeply regretted it.

 

one of my fram filters came with a screw on drain nipple compared to the push in ones from Toyota. I just use that one every time I swap out my Toyota filter. Works perfect!

 

Thank you Sir! This gave me the idea to look for one on Amazon.

For $12 this is made of brass and should last a life time.

 

Whatever works for you. It all comes straight down on mine. Have to clean and lube the cartridge O-ring anyway. I'd like a Baxter remote oil filter kit, but their spin on filter adapter is cheaper.

 

I loved the spin on filter at the top of the motor on my 2007 SR5 those oil changes were quick

 

Yeah I loved it when it came out, but there must have been an issue at some point or the VVTI demands dictated a new system. I would think gravity would be better for oiling. On the 3.4, I always installed filters by hand and removed by hand turning the driver wheel and reaching thru the control arm to change filter. I have never used a filter wrench on a Toyota oil filter, only the cartridge. They have an O-ring that has more tightened pressure than a flat gasket. Never had a leak.

 

I think it was more of an EPA thing where they didn’t want oil filters in landfills anymore. Who knows

 

Exactly. Toyota is on the climate change and recycling push now. It's cheaper yet at the same price for them. When they started using synthetic, they recommended 8k full synthetic oil changes and lifetime transmission fluid. That changed at some point. I believe timing belt and water pump maintenance disappeared and now they are throwing every unnecessary thing they can sell. They are on commission remember, so they need to sell to earn. Climate change platform sharing has about ruined the 4Runner. Probably will be building it in Mexico on a Tacoma frame and parts next time.

 

I think that's why the gear ratio changed in 4runner. They have a different standard than truck emissions. Imagine if 4runner had gotten 4:30s like the Tacoma. It would have been perfection for towing and bigger tires. Most likely better mileage like the V6 Highlander compared to the Highlander cylinder now. That tells me it's about the amount of CO2 the engine produces at speed and certain rpm and not mileage or pollution.

 

My olds had 4.30s in her. Fun times with those in a 3 speed TH400, transbrake and 3500 stall converter!

Yeah the 3.73 dont quite cut with tires past 33”.