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Thud / clunk noise when reaccelerating on highway

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by harsh, Jul 27, 2025 at 11:03 AM.

  1. Jul 27, 2025 at 11:03 AM
    #1
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Hello All,

    Have an issue which has been around for a while, but i feel its becomming more pronouced latley.

    When driving and taking my foot off the accelerator (think highway), allowing the truck to coast then as traffic picks up speed again i go to press the gas i get a thud or clunk noise, like the transfer case just had a rough engage.

    I cant seem to make it happen in other situations other than highway driving.

    From a maintenance perspective, everything is up to date including:

    1) Transmission oil drains and refills
    2) Front, rear dif and transfer case oil change (all with Amsoil Severe gear oil 75-90)
    3) Both driveshafts and associated slip yolk & spider joints greased every oil change at 5k

    Any idea what might be cuasing this?

    Would replacing the Amsoil in the TC with Redline MT LV fluid help?

    Thanks,
     
  2. Jul 27, 2025 at 3:29 PM
    #2
    TrailSpecial22

    TrailSpecial22 Still here…

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    could be rear diff backlash being loose. Check u-joints for slop too
     
  3. Jul 27, 2025 at 10:13 PM
    #3
    Hungryhawk

    Hungryhawk New Member

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    Have you tried same maneuver in "4S" instead of D" -drive.
     
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  4. Jul 28, 2025 at 4:06 PM
    #4
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Never tried that, any instructions for that?
     
  5. Jul 28, 2025 at 4:07 PM
    #5
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Its a Limited so have no been on the highway with any other setting. Was told to be careful of switching between 4x4 modes at anything other than a crawl speed.
     
  6. Jul 28, 2025 at 4:15 PM
    #6
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts New Member

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    4S is 4th gear when in manual mode, shifting between gears on your own.
     
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  7. Jul 29, 2025 at 11:40 AM
    #7
    Hungryhawk

    Hungryhawk New Member

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    As a test to rule out a torque converter malfunction is to try your driving clunk test in 4S -speed maybe around 45-55 mph?
    Shifting from "D" to 4S changes the lock up settings of your FlexLock system in the tranny valve body.
    This may clarify:
    IMG_6665.png

    I had a tranny replacement (by Toyota) due to a shudder drivability issue. Problem was the FexLock solenoid/valve. Work was covered by my 7/100,000 extended warranty.
     
  8. Jul 30, 2025 at 3:37 PM
    #8
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Whilst i check that, a quick question, i was over doing the driveshaft and yolk grease schedule. I was doing it every 6k miles.

    Do you think i have damaged the driveshaft by over filling the grease?

    What are the symptoms of over greasing a drive shaft?

    Or did over filling push the driveshaft into the transfer case / rear dif?
     
  9. Jul 30, 2025 at 4:21 PM
    #9
    Lc200

    Lc200 New Member

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    What you are experiencing could be because of the excess grease in the slip yoke.
    Remove the zerk, and push up and down on front and rear bumpers. That should release any extra grease. Also check the seal has not popped. 2 to 3 pumps at the most for slip yokes.
     
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  10. Jul 30, 2025 at 4:28 PM
    #10
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Oh man, is that permanent damage?

    Just did a drive, it is doing in S4 mode, its also doing it in all gears in D but not as loud.

    Also went through the different drive modes and found going H4F to H4L is smooth, but when coming back H4L to H4F there is a noticeable clunk.
     
  11. Jul 30, 2025 at 4:37 PM
    #11
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Where is the seal in this photo please?

    Or were you referring to the seal on the end of the drive shaft?

    Yolk.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2025 at 5:26 PM
  12. Jul 31, 2025 at 5:06 AM
    #12
    Gumpus

    Gumpus New Member

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    Dude, clunk is usually perfectly normal. Every driveline has lash. You are getting clunk during torque reversals...when driveshaft torque goes from negative (coasting) back to positive (reaccelerating) where the lash creates a clunk. All normal. The only part of your post that catches my eye is that you think it may be getting worse (but you aren't sure). If it's getting worse it's worth understanding what changed. The clunk should be directly affected by how hard you stab the throttle when reaccelerating so maybe it's just your driving habits.
     
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  13. Jul 31, 2025 at 7:08 AM
    #13
    Blackshirt

    Blackshirt New Member

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    Check your engine/drivetrain mounts.
     
  14. Jul 31, 2025 at 9:33 AM
    #14
    Jk4runner

    Jk4runner New Member

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    Sounds like your slip yoke. Mine was doing yesterday same situation. Really pronounced when I would brake Really hard then let it roll before hitting the gas. I'd get a little bump.
     
  15. Jul 31, 2025 at 9:35 AM
    #15
    Jk4runner

    Jk4runner New Member

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    Grease fitting for yoke isn't the one in the universal joint
     
  16. Jul 31, 2025 at 1:48 PM
    #16
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    If I recall, there is a metal endcap on the end of the driveshaft that is inside this shadowed recess where the arrow points to.
    IMG_6806.jpg
    If you over-pack the slip yoke with grease, you could theoretically cause excessive pressure or hydro-lock the sliding shaft when the suspension compresses. That could pop the cap off. I’d imagine you’d see a mess of grease if that were the case.

    Your swiper seal around the shaft where it compresses should have a little trace of grease. If it’s totally dry, I doubt you even have enough in there to begin with.
     
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  17. Jul 31, 2025 at 2:44 PM
    #17
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    I know that driveline lash can sometimes be felt in my 4runner in very particular conditions (4lo or when shifting into drive or reverse as the gear engages and loads up the drivetrain)…but I don’t think you should feel lash on a normal drive. The torque converter and motor/trans mounts should gently absorb any feeling of lash when you lift and re-apply throttle.

    However, I do wonder about that slide-yoke. Inspect the endcap. If it’s ok, next step is to remove the zerk fitting. If it has a lot of air pressure or is overfilled, you’ll probably see some grease spooge out immediately. Leave the zerk off, and bounce on the rear bumper to compress the suspension as much as possible, and drive it over some bumps to remove more. Then clean up the mess and reinstall zerk fitting.

    The front driveshaft also has a slide yoke to account for engine/trans movement on bumpy roads and torque movement. You’d be surprised how much that engine moves around on those cushy mounts. Make sure it’s greased properly, just like the rear driveshaft. Remove the zerk to burp the air and excessive grease. But this time, instead of jumping on the bumper, you’ll have to get the engine/trans to move around on the mounts. I did this by shifting it into drive, loading the engine briefly with my foot on the brakes. I also put it in 4lo, backed up a few feet, then into drive, forward a few feet, and repeated this a few cycles.

    The reason I think you should take extra time to make sure both slide yokes are greased properly is because:

    -over-packed slide yokes will transfer forces into the transfer-case (in fact, I kind of wonder if that could explain your transmission leak at the transmission/transfer case interface).
    -an under-greased slide yoke can cause it to be sticky or to seize up. Stickiness will be felt like a bump (maybe the feeling of lash when lifting throttle). A siezed slide yoke in front would make the engine/trans move more in its mounts.​
     
  18. Jul 31, 2025 at 3:02 PM
    #18
    Jk4runner

    Jk4runner New Member

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    The grease fitting is on the side of the universe joint where it connects to the shaft....just went out there and checked
     
  19. Jul 31, 2025 at 3:24 PM
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    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Just checked, both drive shafts still have their caps (photos attached). I don't see anything out of place, all seals are where they should be.

    At this point i think i might leave well enough alone.

    Considering it sounds like if any damage was done, its done, is there any advantage of making the effort to remove the grease?

    Thinking to let the grease work its way out over the next while by not refilling for at least 5 oil changes.

    Really don't want to get into removing zirk fittings.

    To help you guys assess the overfill, i was putting 5 pumps in the rear driveshaft and 3 in the front every 6000 miles, and pumping the spider joints until new grease was seen coming out.

    Rear yolk cap.jpg
    Front yolk cap.jpg
     
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  20. Jul 31, 2025 at 3:35 PM
    #20
    Jk4runner

    Jk4runner New Member

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    Looks pretty well lubed....mine looks dry as hell
     
  21. Jul 31, 2025 at 3:57 PM
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    McSpazatron

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    What do the swiper seals look like? Any pics? Do they have grease? If so, the grease should leave witness marks as to how much it’s moving in and out.

    edit: nevermind, I see one in the pic. Hard to say if they are overfilled, but at least you know that the grease is making it all the way to the area that needs it.

    In my overly analytical head, I still think there’s good reason to burp the grease out of both driveshafts to make sure you’re not overly packed. First reason, is that it may still be causing damaging longitudinal forces into the transfer case (bearings getting thrust forces they weren’t designed for). Second reason is that remote possibility (at least in my mind) that your transmission leak could be explained by the transfer case shaft moving in and out over that lip seal (the one in the pictures I posted in your other thread).

    By the way, removing the zerks aren’t a super big deal at all. Just don’t over tighten them when you put them back on.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2025 at 4:09 PM
  22. Jul 31, 2025 at 5:19 PM
    #22
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    How much have i overdone the grease schedule, considering this is the frequency i have been doing it:

    5 pumps in the rear driveshaft and 3 in the front every 6000 miles, and pumping the spider joints until new grease was seen coming out

    Edit:
    I guess what i'm trying to say is what should the schedule be and how much over have i done it

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2025 at 5:33 PM
  23. Jul 31, 2025 at 5:27 PM
    #23
    McSpazatron

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    Spiders dont matter, pump all you want, the excess immediately comes out the sides.

    As far as the slide yoke, I did the same as you usually every 5k. At one point I even extra pumps But the swiper seal and exposed part of the sliding shaft was always dry, no evidence of any grease at all!

    When I started to feel the yoke sticking at around 40k miles iirc , I went to town with the grease gun, and burped excess out. Still feels like it sticks every once in a while.
     
  24. Aug 1, 2025 at 2:14 PM
    #24
    harsh

    harsh [OP] New Member

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    Thanks everyone.

    Will leave well enough alone for now, but skip greasing driveshaft for a while and see if that helps.

    Will keep you all posted if it goes away as the grease works its way out.
     
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  25. Aug 1, 2025 at 2:32 PM
    #25
    Jk4runner

    Jk4runner New Member

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    Good luck! I just greased my yoke,u joints and did a drain and fill on the transmission. Just gotta do my diffs and t case
     

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