new in the 4runners, TRD PRO 2021, 100k miles rust acceptable?

is that sand all over in this pic?

 

Why not a get a last generation diesel Prado? If Toyota sold new Prados (not just GX460s) in Canada, I would buy one, gas or diesel. If you're exporting a 4Runner to drive something unique that few others have, then I completely understand. It's just that a home-market Prado would be way more practical.

 

Looks more like saline residue, just look at the corrosion setting in on the aluminum parts...that white-powdery-speckled look is a dead giveaway.

Looking at the OP's recent underside pics showing the forward section of the propeller shaft, cam tab (yikes that bolt' gonna be tough to move!), heads...indicative of roadway spray getting up and dousing everything with saline. Going to need some serious rust-removal/conversion/protection before things get worse, especially if the OP's going to be driving in a similar environment back home!

 

Personally, I would pass. I would be more willing to pick-up a southern / southwest 4runner and make a roadtrip out of it. Woolwax the bottom once you get it back.

 

You are going to have to do a LOT of disassembly and coating a BUNCH of bolts in anti-seize if you plan on that vehicle having a LONG life.
The Lower A-arm bolts and cam adjusters all have to be pulled and scotch brite and anti seized and reassembled before they rust and seize up (hopefully they have not already). All of the small bolts, cross members, brake brackets, every single little bolt you are going to have to pull out, put anti seize on, and reassemble otherwise the threads are already rusting and going to continue to rust and every one of them is going to break off in a few years when you decide you need to work on the vehicle and pull a bolt out. The whole frame needs to be coated in a rust converter to stop the rust, and seal it and then the whole frame needs to be coated in fluid film or wool wax every year or two depending on how bad the roads are up there.
That vehicle can be saved but its going to take a fair bit of work underneath to get it back to pristine condition and to prevent problems down the road. Also the price needs to reflect the work needed underneath.

Whoever owned that one knew they were going to trade out in a few years, so they never bothered to have it coated. That is an absolute shame, anyone living in the rust belt should know better. That person probably did and knew they wouldnt keep it long enough, and now its on the lot to become someone elses problem.

 

Unless you can get the Foxes rebuilt in Poland for cheap, just look for a TRD Off Road - they're cheaper and a lot more plentiful.

 

You want him to take out every bolt and clean them? Are you insane?

 

i dont think he means every bolt, just the ones that are removed frequently: skid plates for oil and front diff, cam bolts for alignments, etc. i bet that thing never had a spark plug change and those coil pack bolts can freeze up. Also at 100k, serp belt should be changed. IMO I’d pass on this one. My previous post had some nice 4rnrs with low mileage and around $40k

 

Not every bolt but everything that’s gonna need to come out in the future.
Example:
Bought a mint condition truck that was basically like that 4R above. Minimal rust, seams, corners, exterior and interior were mint. Frame was not in terrible shape basically like that above. Bought at 140,000 miles, it had new tires. Didn’t drive it much about 5,000 miles a year. Found out within 15,000 miles that it needed an alignment pretty bad. Took it to alignment shop, no dice, cam sleeves seized in the lower A-arm bushings. No big deal, I gotta air hammer and machined a sleeve punch to push the sleeves out. It didn’t work just mushroomed them. To pull the rear lower A-arm bolt out you gotta pull the steering rack. Broke a steering rack bolt and stripped the head on another. Broke a skid plate bolt too.
Woulda been smart to go thru the truck upon purchase and work on all those bolts prior to letting it sit a while and get worse.

So yeah all the major bolts you’re gonna need to pull out one day, you better get them out soon as possible otherwise they’re gonna continue to rust and get worse.

also the lower drivers door sill, whoever owned it has been dragging their feet in and out and the black paint is down to metal. That’s kinda not cool, I don’t like that a bit.

 

And oil drain plug hatch is missing, just spotted it. Probably because the 2 bolts got snapped off

 

140K? It was already too late. If you’re going to own high mileage vehicles bolts are going to be tough to remove. That’s why they make torches.

 

The point was, that 4R pictured in OP has a high probability all the bolts on the under side are already rusting into the nuts and if they’re left as-is they’re not coming out down the road when you need to get them out.

 

^The LCA cam bolts in New England can be assumed to have seized after year 3.

When the time comes, sawzall blades are probably cheaper in Poland. They also have Superpro cam bolts and Siberian poly bushings.