Audio Upgrade + Adding Sub Help

Hi y'all, I've been reading through countless threads and reddit posts trying to get as far ahead on what I need to do for my audio upgrade, but I have some lingering questions and I'd appreciate any help. I only have questions regarding electronics for now, youtube was pretty informative with the physical install.

Current setup: new to me 2011 Trail edition, no JBL, no NAV. I do not know if the previous owner changed out the speakers, but it's unlikely given the factory basic stereo, but maybe not.

My plan: Install factory JBL enclosure (already purchased) with new subwoofer, 5 channel amp (not purchased), along with the Dasaita 9 inch stereo (purchased via Prime Day because I love the look of it and enough good things said despite mixed reviews). I have done 2 car stereos before and swapped speakers, but never done an amp or sub. I'm hoping to wait on doing the speakers and adding some door sound deadening for a different day, so this is 'day 1'

My understanding: I need to wire power from the battery terminal through the firewall (with fuse) into the amp. I plan to use the typical under-seat bolt commonly used for ground. Plug in sound input via 5 RCA's from the stereo to the amp. Use 9 wire bundle to do both ignition activation of the amp and to wire the 4 channels back to the harness that goes to the speakers for the truck. Then wire the sub with speaker wire from the amp to the sub. I'll post the items I'm looking at below.

Questions:
1) Planning to use an amp that does ~80w RMS x 4 + 300w x 1 @4 ohm, 120w x 4 + 500w x 1@ 2 ohm. Since the front speakers are 4 ohm in parallel, does that mean that the amp would see 2 ohms from the front and send 120w through the wires? I've read they can handle up to about 80 and MAYBE 100. I don't want to fry it, plan b would be to only plug in the sub RCA and run the speakers off the head unit, but it looks like it's 27w per channel....

2) Is there room to mount the amp back where the sub will go? I'd prefer that option but it's not critical. Figure I might want a second powered amp under the seat at some point but it's more important to me to get 1 sub + keep full trunk space for camping and my dog. Factory enclosure first because I feel like it'd be weird for a passenger to feel that under the seat so that's why I want to start there. I also like the idea of being able to adjust the amp, which means under seat makes more sense

3) Sub: do the subs below work? would I be 'better' off using a 500w RMS sub @ 2ohms? I was thinking of running everything at 4 ohms so 300w from the amp, but since the sub won't use factory wiring, I don't actually need to 'limit' the amp on watts for the sub. Also will the subs work for factory enclosure? Also are any vastly 'better' than the others? I'm more comfortable working on mechanical components

4) Am I missing anything stupid or is anything not recommended? I don't think I'll really need or will plan on running new wire through the truck to handle 150w per channel, but the head unit comes today, so I'd like to order the amp and sub asap so I can do the stereo, amp, sub, and worry about changing the speakers out later. would be nice to do that without having to swap from the harness to the amp to power them at that time.

Parts:
Head Unit:

$647 Dasaita 8GB+256GB Radio Upgrade for Toyota 4Runner 2010-2023, 9" QLED Touchscreen, Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto, Built-in 4G Cellular, Optical Amplifier, Android 13

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSD4975S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Amp:

$145 Rockville dB55 4000W 5-Channel 2-Ohm Car Amplifier, High-Speed MOSFET, Adjustable Crossover, LED, Remote Sub Control, Perfect for Car Audio and Subs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SGK6F...id=2A0FGPJP9AXHW#averageCustomerReviewsAnchor
or

$200 STINGER Audio MT-1000.5 1200 Watt RMS 5-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, Class D, Hexfet Mosfet, Crossover High-Pass/Low-Pass Filter, Subsonic Filter, Remote Subwoofer Bass Knob, Bass Boost Q

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXZD7JYF/?coliid=IYXR2KN9AQIVR&colid=2A0FGPJP9AXHW

Amp Wiring:

Skar Audio 4 Gauge OFC Complete Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit, SKAR4ANL-OFC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K326XP/?coliid=IH5VMS8A1LREL&colid=2A0FGPJP9AXHW&th=1

Speaker Wiring (amp to harness):

$15 Mygatti 9 Conductor Speaker Wire 20 FT, 18 Gauge CCA Stranded Cable, 18AWG 4-Channel Speaker Wire and Remote Wire for Car Audio Systems, Ultra-Flex and Easy Peel Jacket, Blue

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQTV8DR...4bef&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy&th=1

Speaker Wiring RCA to amp (4 channel, or get the 6 channel and use that instead of the included amp wiring kit's sub RCA to just run the 1 wire for cleaner install):

Skar Audio 17-Foot 4-Channel Twisted Pair RCA Interconnect Cable - SKAR4CH-RCA17

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-1...8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Subs:
Kicker CompRT (300 RMS, but shallow enough?):

$136 Kicker 48CWRT84 CompRT 8" Subwoofer, DVC, 4-ohm

https://www.amazon.com/KICKER-CompR...752249421&sprefix=kicker+8+sub,aps,124&sr=8-5

Kicker ComprR (seems not shallow?):

$80 Kicker 48CWR84 CompR 8" Subwoofer, DVC, 4-ohm

https://www.amazon.com/KICKER-CompR...6&sprefix=kicker+8+compr+4+ohm,aps,122&sr=8-3

Open to other suggestions on subs- thoughts are that the skar I saw was paper cone, I don't want to go over $200 so the JL and kenwood I don't think I'd get enough benefit from moving up, and the pioneer I saw that fit would be their A-class which is only 250w and I didn't see the class D in 8 inch

Sorry for the ramble! I just want to do this one time as pain free as possible

 

The main difference between 2-ohm and 4-ohm speakers lies in their impedance, which affects how much power they draw from the amplifier and, consequently, their volume and potential sound quality. 2-ohm speakers, having lower resistance, draw more power, potentially leading to louder sound but also potentially putting more strain on the amplifier. 4-ohm speakers, with higher resistance, draw less power, typically resulting in slightly lower volume but potentially better sound quality and stability.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:

• Impedance:
  Impedance, measured in ohms, is the resistance an electrical signal encounters as it travels through the speaker. Lower impedance (like 2 ohms) means less resistance, allowing more current to flow.
• Power and Volume:
  Lower impedance (2 ohms) allows more power to reach the speaker, potentially making it louder. Higher impedance (4 ohms) restricts power flow, resulting in potentially lower volume.
• Amplifier Requirements:
  2-ohm speakers demand more power from the amplifier and can potentially stress it, especially if the amplifier is not designed for low impedance loads. 4-ohm speakers are generally easier on amplifiers and are more commonly found in car audio systems.
• Sound Quality:
  While it's not a direct correlation, 4-ohm speakers are often associated with slightly better sound quality, especially in terms of clarity and control, while 2-ohm speakers might be perceived as having a less controlled, potentially muddier bass.
• Applications:
  2-ohm speakers are often preferred in bass-heavy setups where maximum volume is desired, like car audio competition systems. 4-ohm speakers are often preferred for general listening and home theater setups, where a balance of volume and sound quality is desired.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm not seeing many 8" subs that can handle the 500w RMS that the amp would put out at 2 ohms. So probably I'll stick with the 300w, I don't need to shake the windows of houses I go by I just want it to be solidly better than what I've got..... which is no sub.

Any thoughts on the issues of running the stock speakers with the amp upgrade? I'm worried that the front 4 will draw too much power from the amp for the wiring, being wired in parallel

edit: I assume it's not really feasible to shove a 10" speaker in the JBL enclosure

 

Looks like you might be set on buying from ScAmazon, and to each their own. But, I highly recommend going through Crutchfield. They are pros, and they can get you set up with all the correct adapters so you don't end up cutting into wiring looms. Don't be THAT guy. There's no reason to.

"I just want to do this one time as pain free as possible". These are your own words, and Crutchfield is the way.

 

Yeah thanks I'll take a look again. I've ordered a double-din adapter and wiring harness from them previously and yeah they're great. I've also cut and soldered wires for a previous harness, as long as the diagram is known and there seems to be a lot of information out there for 4R's.

 

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/T1.html

Another source for harness adapters.

 

Welcome

 

I agree. I think consumers should work together a little more to support the businesses that provide support. If all of them shut their doors, Amazon and Walmart will all be left.

Crutchfield is a great one-stop shop for car audio.

 

Crutchfield handa down if you are diving into this

They will make it a breeze