got our first oil leak..not sure where from

went under our 2019 SR5 to change the oil and noted evidence of a leak. got pics from the front and back...any ideas where this one is originating? looks too deep for me to get at...wonder how much it's gonna hurt at the shop...

 

Clean it and then see where it's originating.
Like this we are only shooting in the dark.

 

Looks like timing cover leak, which often develops near the power steering pump. Removing the timing cover to re-seal it will be labor-intensive - budget about $2k. Alternatively, the shop can temporarily remove the power steering pump, clean the area, and apply sealant on the outside. The 2nd gen Tacoma folks report good success with this method.

 

It's closer to $4,500 from the dealer.

 

Clean well, determine where it's seeping and try Permatex on the area in question (as stated above). How many miles? Are you still on the original PCV valve? If so, replace that immediately.

 

I clean mine 2-3x a year. Not worth thousands to fix IMO.

 

That's for 1GR or 2GR? The latter is typically an engine-out job at the dealer.

 

Oil leaks thru gaskets can sometimes be slowed by cleaning -then check bolts/screws for proper tightness. I clean cold motor with paper towels and old cotton fabric T-shirts cut up. Use disposable gloves. When done wiping I spray with Simple Green then rinse with warm or cold water from a small (I qt) utility liquid sprayer. Watch for source of oil. Tighten bolts/screws when clean so grit is not trapped when tightened.

 

As a wise man told you above, change your pcv valve. It literally is $11 and takes 2 minutes. No special tools required. If that is clogged the pressure in the engine will just cause more leaks. How many miles on it do you have and have you ever changed the pcv valve?

 

Watching thread, I got the cover leak too. I’ll have to google wtf that valve is lol

 

If you need metric wrenches for the bolts be sure to obtain Flex Head Ratchet box wrench. The better quality one have very fine ratcheting. And you can get into places where ratchets with u-joints and extensions cannot get.

 

All you need is a 19 mm and extension and a ratchet. It’s on the drivers side in the back. Super easy to change. Don’t even have to get under the car. If it takes you longer than 5 minutes you’re doing something wrong. Get it from the dealership. $11 at the most

 

Very much appreciated gentlemen

 

1GR

 

When I had my timing chain cover gasket leak, the mechanic said it's a timing cover leak and it would be a $4200 repair job simply because it's very labor intensive and takes upwards of 15 hours.
Thankfully it was $11 in my case.
Though now my VVT-I oil supply line is leaking. Again as easy fix. But this can also be mistaken for a timing cover leak.

 

That's why it's key to clean thoroughly and inspect yourself to verify.

 

Geez I'm slipping in my old age....should have thought of that myself. Just over 105k miles. almost certainly the original PCV valve

 

Yeah I just changed mine out at 80k and it was in good shape. The ball still moved but the new one clearly moved easier when you shook it. So I did have some carbon buildup but it still moved. I’m going to now change it out every 50k. It’s so easy to do and is so cheap

 

yeah, just ordered PCV valves for both 4Runners, mine only has 60k miles but is a year older. for the price, it would be silly to NOT do both. I'm blaming my confusion on the fact that my previous ride -a 2006 Trailblazer doesn't have a PCV valve, just a pipe that sucks oil into the intake but that's a thread for another forum. I appreciate the advice

 

https://youtu.be/bBIMm5ts76I?si=3MGnOqprxDGV6XfX

 

Thank-you for this, I like this dudes videos on mafs and throttle body’s too

 

Good content, hope he’s not a doctor too.

Maybe he should do a little cleaning before opening up the engine …..

just sayin’

 

Good video. I wouldn’t use red though on it. I asked a Toyota mechanic he said you don’t need anything but to make sure it’s good and tight. Red could lick it in place making it almost impossible to remove next time. If anything put blue on it.

 

I had good results smearing Permatex on the outside of grease leask where CV joint boot was oozing on both front wheels. My Pilot had over 100,000 miles at the time and funds were low.
Boots were not torn or damaged, factory clamp was original. Boot just got soft and grease was spraying on underside of chassis.
I cleaned really well with Simple Green, rags, brushes and rinsed with hot water from spray bottle. Smeared the gasket maker on the rubber end of boot and onto steel of joint leaving some at the seam. Cleaned under body and watched for new leaks-none! Repair laster over 120,000 miles and sold vehicle at 20 years of age.

 

Dude, right!?

 

Thanks, appreciate this information.
I recently bought orange and regardless of anyone’s else’s opinion I’m gunna give it a try on a few things

 

Seems like a good plan. I just wouldn’t use red though

 

I don’t understand all this about having to use loctite on this pcv valve that is being screwed into aluminum. [Disclamer: Yes, I read it on the instruction sheet]
Plus there is 20ft lbs of torque on this pcv valve. It’s not going anywhere!
I would be concerned about the red loctite causing too much removal pressure on the aluminum threads. < that won’t buff out!
Look, I totally believe that Toyota does things correctly, but this item, I question. I’m old school. I remember when pcv valves were just pushed into rubber grommets and the worked without issue.
I posted this, not to debate, but just to offer some food for thought.
Thanks for listening!

 

Amen. I’m with you. I never use red loctite unless I never plan on taking that bolt out. As I mentioned above, I spoke to a Toyota master technician and he said don’t use anything.

 

Do the instructions call out thread lock or thread sealant? There are products that do both, generally they are more sealant than thread locker.