Front End Clunk - 2018 Off Road

My 2018 Off Road has a clunk in the front end when I stop, turn the wheel and drive (either forwards or backwards).

For example: If I'm going to back into a parking spot, when I crank my wheel to start to align with the spot and drive forward, clunk. Then when I put it in reverse and crank the wheel the other way, I start driving in reverse, clunk.

The clunk appears to only happen when I'm stopped, turn the wheel, and the weight shifts in the vehicle. The wheel is not maxed in one direction when the clunk happens. When lifted on jacks, no clunk - so there has to be weight on the wheels to replicate.

We've replaced nearly everything in the front end (we bought it from salvage and fixed it - before and after photos attached for reference). See the list below.

I have 2 theories of what it might be, but want to see if anyone has any input.

Thanks!

Here's a list of what's been done to Bertie:

Replaced right inner fender structure;
Replaced right hand fender;
Replaced hood;
Replaced bumper;
Replaced Passenger headlight;
Cut out and install new frame cross members;
Installed new RH LCA;
Replaced RH brake spindle;
New SPC UCA;
New OME BP51 lift kit;
17" Icon Wheels;
Replaced Clock Spring;
Replaced UCA Bushings;
Replaced RH front hub;
Replaced ball bearings;
Replaced windshield.

 

Does it only happen when you turn the wheel? Would you hear the clunk if you were going forward, stopped, put it in reverse, and didn't turn the wheel?

When's the last time you greased the u-joints and slip yolks of the drive shafts (Toyota calls them the propellor shafts)?

 

Probably SPCs UBJ. Look them up

 

EDIT: I stand corrected, it does clunk with only forward and backwards motions - turning is not required as I previously thought (or else it's getting worse and now clunks with forward and backwards movements).

No, if I don't turn the wheel, it doesn't clunk. BUT I don't have to turn it much though for it to clunk.

We haven't greased the u-joints or slip yokes since we've owned it (we've had it running for about a year now). Can do tonight though. Based on my quick internet search it should be done every 5,000-15,000kms. Does that sound about right? Sorry for my ignorance - first 4R!

 

I just replaced them recently as part of our search for answers. Clunk remains unfortunately.

 

I would look at the tie rod ends (especially outer ones). Buddy of mine has a GX that had a cluck/metal sounds when you turned the steering wheel, ended up being the outer tie rod ends. Just a thought

 

I have a question!

I know this is a salvage repair/rebuild, but did the “clunk” start immediately after you re-built it or after you rebuilt it and then drove it for several miles/months?


The lady in this thread had almost the exact same issue as you: https://www.4runners.com/threads/clunk-turning-left-right-desperate-need-for-help.20500/

 

Most of us probably do it every 20k or so......but it should be done every so often.

It's probably not your issue, but if you don't have enough grease in the slip yolk it, can create a thunk when you first start out from a stop.

 

I don't remember anymore it feels like it's always been there, but I can't say for sure! We went through a bit of trial and error right off the bat - there were a few other clunks i had to resolve, then this one remained. It does seem like it's getting worse though, so it's possible it didn't exist at first.

Oh! That thread does sound super close! I have, unfortunately, done almost all of the solutions offered in that thread. I did have to retorque the SPC UCA bolt when we pulled the UCAs last month to replace the bushings. I also didn't see any evidence of wear. Clunk remains.

I also checked the coilover bolts last summer when we first got it cleared. I didn't check the torque but they weren't loose and were v. tight.

 

We've checked the tie rods and the passenger side got all new ones in the rebuild. Will take a second look though, thanks!

 

Hell if nothing else I appreciate learning about a new maintenance item to add to my list! Thanks!

 

Tighten the LCA bolts & see if it goes away

 

Lower control arm bolts have to be SUPER SUPER tight or the lower A-arm will actually move around in its pocket and make a clunk / thud you can hear and feel.
I see this often after an alignment, when the tech doesnt tighten the lower A-arm bolts good, it takes a month or two or three and customer starts to get a clunk that gets worse and worse over a month or so before they finally bring them in. Put a 36" pull bar on the lower bolts and get a whole turn out of the nuts / bolt and it shuts them up.

Since you had the whole thing apart i assume you either replaced the lower A-arms or at least had the front end aligned, i would check the lower A-arm bolts front and back and give them a REAL GOOD Snug.

 

I have retorqued my LCA bolts a couple of times to spec.

I've tried this a few times in the past, and again today because you and someone else mentioned it. Those bolts are as right as can be.

 

No such luck. This is what I also had thought it was in the past but those bolts couldn't be tighter. I tried again tonight but there was zero movement!

 

It may be preload on your coilovers. Whats your front setup like? It’s coming from there. Do you have a diff drop?

 

Got any pics/videos? Post them

 

Tried to get a video of it but of course it didn't want to do it once I pulled out the camera! Was able to catch the sound once. Uploaded the video here: https://youtu.be/GTQlEHVti08?si=uiqhz10gaESVnVHm

Tonight I:

• Greased the u-joints/yokes
• Checked tightness of the LCA bolts
• Backed off and retightened the UCA bolts
• Checked the coil bolts.

The clunk persists.

 

Look at Bertie, even with a broken leg still has it towing that big GMC!

This clunk reminds me of a post I saw on another forum (when I was researching into SPC UCAs…) SPC UCA Failure

 

SPCs UCAs look okay? I hated mine & sucked getting new ones

 

Yes to diff drop.

3" OME BP-51 lift with 1/4" spacers

Posted a video in a comment below that gives you an idea of what it sounds like. Inside the vehicle it sounds clunkier.

Photos as requested:
LH

RH

 

Hahaha good eye!

We had the SPC UCAs off last month when we replaced the bushings and they looked completely fine. Just tried resetting them tonight to confirm for the thread they weren't the problem and it was not the fix unfortunately.

 

Yeah we just had them off last month when we replaced the bushings and they looked fine!

I didn't want to taint the thread with my suspicions but the next whackamole hit planned was to check the rack and pinion bushings.

 

Gotcha. Okay so here’s something that may seem far fetched…There was a time when the TRD Fox shocks were first implemented that suffered a ‘clunk’ sound. It was discovered to be caused by an improper spring perch geometry to which there was a fix. I wonder if by some means your OME shock is having a similar issue? Is there a way you could video this from an angle akin to your second photo? Just might capture the culprit…

 

Honestly, it doesn't sound that far fetched at all! When I was trouble shooting this winter I was paying attention to the angles of everything and wondered if any needed adjusting. We added the spacers only recently to level Bert and was hoping that might help (but it obviously didn't get rid of the noise or I wouldn't be here!).

Will set up the go pro tonight and try to get a video like you suggested, thank you!

 

dang, I get this randomly too!

I thought it was due to the cold weather cuz I would only really get it in the mountains.. but don't really experience this back in socal

sadly can never recreate it every time i tried

 

It's an absolute mystery! Unlike you, I have been able recreate the noise: if I speed up going forward and brake hard, it'll clunk (and same goes for reverse). So, it must be from weight redistribution.

No idea where it's coming from though!

 

UPDATE:

It took many days (4 to be exact) and lots of frustration, but we ended up replacing the rack and pinion ("R&P"). This ultimately was not the solution.

Looking online, everyone says there are only 2 ways to replace the R&P in a 5th gen: 1. have the dealer install it by lifting the engine; or 2. remove various AC components. We founds a 3rd: drop your diff.

So, we removed the LH inner tie rod and RH outer tie rod, disconnected the R&P, dropped the diff, put in the new R&P, and put it all back together with new inner and outer tie rods.

The clunk persists.

We tried using a paint pen to draw around some bolts that were in the general area of the sound to check for movement, but have not yet noticed any disruption of the markings from the bolts moving.

We had a side quest of brake issues, but I deal with that in another post.

Next steps:

1. Wheel alignment on Wednesday;
2. Inspect shock setup.

If I make any progress, i'll post another update.

The whole front end has been replaced at this point so my only other suspicion is that it might be a bolt in a bracket somewhere.

 

my skid plates used to make this noise. I also had clunks from worn out front sway bar bushings, and a blown KDSS front piston.

 

I wonder if the frame or to be more specific the chassis out front is hitting or rubbing something when you shift into a different gear. In other words, the engine/tran has a flex or moves a little and so wonder if something rubs. I see a pretty good amount of rust in some of the pics. Keep us posted.