2002 4Runner Oil Consumption

Hello guys,

I'm new to this forum. I decided to join in hopes someone here can help me and point me in the right direccion. Here is my issue:

I have a 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD that I purchased last year from a co-worker. My coworker, bought the vehicle brand new in 2002 and he has been the only owner. When I purchased the vehicle, it had been sitting under a tree for 3-5 months. When I bought the vehicle, it was running rough and I replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs, one injector and an O2 sensor. I have had the vehicle for less than a year and I have put about 12,000 miles on it. I have the replaced the oil about 3 times with synthetic oil since. On this last oil change I noticed the oil was very low, to the extent that I wouldn't see any oil marks on the stick. I'm not exactly sure what can be causing the consumption? Yesterday I replace the PCV valve, I have also replace the entire exhaust system, one coil pack, knock sensor, I'm waiting for the Mass Air Flow sensor to arrive. The vehicle does not smoke and I noticed no oil leaks. I have taken it to two different mechanics and they have told me that the vehicle does NOT burn any oil. I'm not sure what the issue can be? Has anyone experienced the same issue? I just replaced the oil about 200 miles ago and I checked it this morning and seem low. What can be the caused?

Thank you in advance for all the help.

 

Did you make sure you're parking on a level surface when you fill and measure the oil, a driveway slope (~15 degrees) can make that difference.

I would not parts cannon this problem, especially the electronics, Toyota's universally hate aftermarket electronic sensors, they don't work long term if at all. Keep any original sensor you take off, and only use Toyota ones even if they seem super expensive. Especially the MAF, if you want to save money you're better off buying a used one advertised as working than a new aftermarket one.

Check the spark plugs for signs of oil burning. Check compression for signs of any leaks. The PCV is one I would have done, even when they work perfectly they still pass oil, you won't know within a day if it was successful.

 

Thank you for your response.

All the parts used were OEM. The MAF I purchased is a Denso and that's why I had to wait to get it and also OEM PCV. Spark plugs are also Denso and they were checked a few weeks ago and no signs of oil. I'm going to keep closer attention to it and check oil hopefully on daily basis. I noticed on other forums and also here, that in some cases the problem can be related to a faulty valve cover seal. I'm going to order one and replace it to see if that makes a difference. I'm also getting a new oil pressure switch just in case. Forgot to mention that the compression seems to be fine. There was a leak on the new exhaust that was fixed yesterday.

Anything else I should be looking for?

 

Woah, slow down. I agree with Trekker, may have just been a whoopsie on the oil fill-up. If your valve cover is leaking you will be able to tell by getting under the car and checking for oil leaks. Just keep driving and checking the dipstick periodically before jumping on more parts

 

Thank you for your reply. Yes I will not be buying any more parts for now. I will keep closer attention to the oil levels and see what’s going on. Here’s a question that I have. Are these engines known for burning oil?

 

Denso should be okay for MAF, plugs, and wires assuming its genuine. Lot of fakes sold on Amazon and Ebay, not just of Toyota parts but Denso and NGK. Amazon is especially deceptive, multiple companies can fill an order, so it can be a coin toss whether you get a real one.

These engines are known for not burning oil, only see it if they've been abused or are extremely high mile. They aren't like modern engine. I add a half quart every 4k miles but that's the combined effect of having a leaking timing cover, oil cooler, and oil pan.

They do like to leak, most often (by a wide margin) valve covers, but also oil cooler/filter area, oil pan, and front timing cover (in that order). Also spark plug tubes. It can be difficult to spot, you have to remove the skid plate, clean any existing oil or grime, then wait to see where the oil reappears.

 

Don't forget the rear main seal. That is a common leak after 20 some years.

 

Welcome

 

Oil must be either leaking or burning. If you have an engine rock bash guard, engine leaks might not leave clues on parking spot. If you have a engine bash pan I suggest removing it till issue resolved.
Is your tailpipe sooty inside? As suggested before -any plugs blackened with burned oil? A low compression test will reveal a stuck top oil ring on that piston. You could put some Seafoam into the problem low compression cylinder thru the plug hole. Let it soak a couple days, then suction it out. Run engine a week then retest the compression.
Worn leaky valve guides will not show up though.
I would use the

$37 AT205 AT-205 Seal Leak Stopper 8 Ounce - 2 Pack

AT205 reseal conditioner as a test. It can condition a leaky main seal and perhaps delay the replacement, also other seals-like front seal.