RCI Aluminum skid worth cost?

Have you read the posts above regarding RCI vs. Talons? For an SR5, they are pretty much equal with a bit of a price difference. Both have access plates. The Talons engine skid plate is 2 pieces, the RCI is 1 piece, so it's longer.

 

That's what I was thinking of doing. It's whatever you want. Probably won't bolt up with a diff drop you don't need. A remote Baxter filter would be nice and just open the hood like early 4th gens. I think you could plumb an Ebay aftermarket remote spin mount from a Baxter remote adaptor.

 

I did!
I prefer the 2 piece compared to the one piece RCI.
I am still not sure if the oil filter cut out is big enough to not make the job messy. I have to see one in person before pulling the plug.

I have an oil change coming up soon, but it looks like it's again going to be a whole lotta cursing just like during the previous 2342355 oil changes .

 

I get what you're saying about the size of the cut out. I had the RCI skid for a while, and had a shop change the oil. They still made a mess. I then tried it myself next time, and it was still a bit of a pain, and I ended up selling it and going back to the oem skid so I could remove the front skid. I then found the Talons 2 piece skid, and that's what's on there now. Next oil change I'll try the access panel again with a bit more patience. Fingers crossed. If it still is too much trouble, I'll just take off the front, as I can leave the bumper filler in place to remove it, as the back of that filler piece is sandwiched between the skid and the mounting cross member.

 

Does the front piece have those tabs that the OEM has and goes inside the frame cut outs or just falls down by removing the 4 screws?
Also, is it lighter than the OEM?

 

Limited doesn’t have extended rear breather on differential housing. I extended mine to the frame. On 3rd generation Tacoma and 4runner, I would jack driver's side wheel, rotate tire and axle until you can reach through the control arm and around the notch of CV bushing and remove by hand. I layed absorbing sheet under filter to catch filter oil. I put it on hand tight then about a quarter turn. Then you don't have to remove skid plate or strip customers bolts. With the Baxter spin on adapter I don't know if there's room. I never use filter wrench. Those Toyota filters w/O rings seal better with less pressure than a flat gasket and less likely to trap debris under it. Never had one fall off or leak. Always tighten by hand, preferably after sex so you aren't to strong.

 

It's just held by the 4 bolts. No tabs are present. I'd say it's a bit heavier than the steel oem, but not by much.

I know that I could hang the oem skid by those tabs in the frame holes, but I still had to remove the four bolts and the filler piece bolts to do that.

 

I like those tabs on mine. I have always had a problem getting them out. Now I can't get them back in. I started just raising on a floor jack as a 3rd hand. I'm getting so weak in old age.

 

I was thinking of a snug bumper up front, but I will have to change to trail bumper and grille for it to fit. I didn't realize until I saw mine next to nurse's Trail and it has larger lower air dam opening and grille opening. For better low speed trail cooling I assume. The Trail bumper can be cut to get some snuggle bumpers to fit. I thought about a 2014 up front for more options. The only thing about a Limited is how limited your options are when it fits every other 4runner.

 

I installed fumoto and the hole works just fine

 

Agree w/Java. Have a Fumoto w/short nipple and attach a short tube and direct that right into and old oil jug (x2) no mess and easy-peasy. I put a couple "shop towels" around the oil filter opening, take my time and no to minimal mess & clean up is real easy...
just my $0.02

 

Can’t wait! Just bought the aluminum engine and filler plate. Now for a fumoto….

 

THIS!! I absolutely hate laser-cut logos. Paint it on. Emboss it even. Laser cut logos are awful.

 

I have the RCI Aluminum skid plates. It's a little tight getting the oil filter cannister out through the cut-out but if it's drained first, it's not an issue. I could never get that stupid plastic tool to snap in without draining oil all over my hand so I added the drain adapter/ gadgets.

I added the Valvomax drain plug adapter and use an Amazon oil cannister drain tool. It's still *a little* difficult unscrewing the Valvomax dust cover due to the size of the drain plug hole in the skid but otherwise, both drain gadgets make it much cleaner.

 

This was a big reason for making it a two piece design. It is just as easy to remove it as it is to remove the oil door.

The only thing I didn't see discussed is that our mounting bracket that allows the two piece design also adds a bunch of strength to that area, which is one of the more frequently hit areas. Not only do you have the doubling of thickness of aluminum there, but you also have the front and rear bent flanges that make that area even stronger.

A lot of competitors just use round tubing to offset their skids, which works, but doesn't add as much strength as a big beefy bracket.

 

How big is your oil filter cutout, size wise?

 

Just measured the opening on my Talon's and its roughly 4.5" by 4.5".

 

This.

 

Anyone got a measurement for the filter access panel on the RCI or Victory 4x4 skids? The size of this hole is a big part of my decision since I have fat hands. Just comparing photos it looks like Victory has the largest but real numbers would be useful. 4.5 sounds workable though.

 

I got you.

From my RCI: about 4.5" x 4.5". I have medium sized hands and it's not a tight fit but I wouldn't want it any smaller (queue jokes)

pics:

 

What happened to the access cover ? Looks broken off .
Maybe I’m looking at it wrong .

 

I believe you are looking at the bottom of the welds for the mounting tabs. The plate is held on by two bolts. You can see the spring clips in the center of those tabs where the bolts screw in to.