clutch issues in 1996 5 speed stick - relating to "start"

hi, details about me and my 4runner in "new member intros"....
i have an issue with my clutch and how it's part of the "start' system. for those of you that aren't familiar with how older "sticks" start, this will make no sense. for those of you that have one of these models, that will only start if the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor when ignition engaged, you know what i'm talking about.
i will probably have to take it to a mechanic, but i think i could get a real run-around as to what they would want to replace, so i'm reaching out here with my questions. the problem: a few months ago, i tried to start as usual and got nothing when i put the clutch in, total silence. all the lights on dash came on, i have a brand new alternator and battery, so didn't think that was the issue. i sat for a minute or two, tried again, and it started like it always does. drove around town, never happened again. till the next morning. first clue: only happens when it's been sitting overnight. the "by pass" switch, or whatever you call that thing on the dash you can press if you want to bypass the clutch starter, is what i now use when the normal procedure won't work, and now it also is intermittent - but after giving everything a few minutes, it will start the car. i assume a "short" of some sort, especially since it seems related to sitting overnight, and started acting up after our first rain. however, i know it needs to be repaired. have discussed briefly with the mechanics that put in my alternator/battery (thought they may have left a loose wire?), and they started talking about "probably needs a new starter", etc. and none of them could tell me how the system works - how the clutch and the clutch bypass relate to the starter and the rest of the electrical system, so i'm a little nervous about what they will try to talk me into. and i couldn't even find someone at the toyota dealership who knew that the older models worked this way......
any body out there want to take a shot at this? would really like to have a conversation with someone that knows what i'm talking about due to their own experience with clutches and the starting process in older 4 runners. THANKS!

 

Just like your brake light switch that resides under the dash at the top of the brake pedal, there is likely a switch that resides in the same area at the top of the clutch pedal. Considering the age of the vehicle, the clutch switch has been actuated probably millions of times by now. Personally, I would start there (no pun intended). It would still follow your theory that moisture may have an influence, just because after you get the vehicle running that area of the vehicle would get warm and evaporate moisture even if the heater was not used.

 

There is a tiny switch on the clutch pedal that gets depressed when you push in the clutch. You will have to crawl up in the drivers footwell to get visual of this switch but is really far up where the clutch spring is.

Using the clutch start cancel will put additional stress on the starter motor, so if your starter is original then you probably helped it kick the bucket.

 

This ^

From what I remember, the switch position should be adjustable so might not be engaging completely which would make starting intermittent. I'd start by adjusting it, then replacing it if that doesn't work. Should be a cheap fix.

Hitting the 'Clutch Start Cancel' switch on the dash bypasses the switch on the clutch pedal, allowing you to start the vehicle in gear without the clutch pedal depressed (in those very rare circumstances where this is needed). If you depress the clutch pedal AND use the 'Clutch Start Cancel' switch, there's no risk of putting additional stress on the starter.

 

So, in my 3rd Gen, I have to use the clutch cancel button to start it currently, can't start it without doing that. It seems maybe I need to get up under the clutch pedal area and see if I can find the trigger to allow it to start without the clutch cancel?

 

The most likely problem is the switch on the clutch pedal that detects if it is pressed in. Either the switch has gone bad or the pedal is no longer returning to the unpressed position (either poor clutch free play adjustment or a worn spring).

A good way to confirm something is wrong with the switch is to try using cruise control, because if I remember correctly it uses the same switch to make sure you don't have the clutch pressed in with cruise control. If it wont start, the switch thinks the clutch is still in, so with that the cruise control should always work because it thinks the clutch is never depressed (even if it is).

 

Yes thank you, I did find where the issue was and actually had it working and then not working again, but the issue is located and I think I can fix it pretty easily, it just needs a more solid knob or stub on the bottom of the pedal to press down that button.

 

I've used the end of a crayon for that. But if the pedal isn't returning and the plastic pad is in place, then you might want to check the clutch free play

 

The clutch return spring in my third gen broke. Hydraulics would return the pedal enough to drive but the pedal would never fully return on its own. I switched over to a 40# linear spring I got at Lowe's for like 2 bucks. Clutch pedal works to start the truck and cruise control works again.