I think i financed a mistake?

Hello my new 4runner family,

After years of wanting and 7 weeks of hunting i pulled the trigger and bought a 2019 4runner off road premium. Super exciting to have purchased a 4runner but so far my adventure with my new truck is not starting off well. Would like to get some feedback from here if anyone is willing to listen.

To start the 2019 i purchased from a dealership in TX with just over 100k miles this past weekend and during the test drive, everything road rough. While i did my pre-test drive inspection i found that almost all of the suspense is original and multiple links and such have the boots leaking. Suspension work doesn't bother me so i just used it to haggle down the price. I stood behind the car on cold start and while running after hot and never saw any traces of smoke and the tip doesn't appear to have any black soot or oil residue. The Carfax history (which i know is not always truthful but at least its something) shows that it had regular oil changes every 5k miles and overall it seems like the only thing missing that wasn't done recently was a transmission drain and fill or flush. Coolant, transfer case, differentials, brake fluid was all done at 94k miles.

So far so good, so i bought the 4runner based on the above inspection.

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However, one that that didn't appear during the test drive but shortly after we got home after driving for about 30 miles, the low oil pressure light is flickering on and off at idle when in gear or in reverse. With any amount of RPM it kicks off. So with some concerns i started diving into the web and looking for causes, found that apparently the oil pressure sensor is a common cheap culprit to start, low oil is another option, and lastly the oil pump is failing.

So shortly after driving it back home once seeing the light was flickering, i opened the hood to check the oil on the dipstick to see if it was low or maybe the dealership lied about the oil change they did as part of the "reconditioning" process they did for the truck prior to purchase. When i went to remove the dipstick, i heard a "hiss/sizzle" sound come from the tube as it sounded like pressure was being relived. Now, I've done my own oil changes for years with my cars and never once heard the dipstick tube hiss at me. So needless to say went back to the web and did some more research. Signs for that point to, PCV valve clogged, Cracked Block, Head gasket failure, worn out piston rings. So the coolant was recently changed and no signs appear that the head gasket is leaking, no foam / milkshake, no smoke, no smoke out of the dipstick tube. No leaks under the car even after sitting for the last few days. Plugged in my Autel reader and coolant is holding at 185F so its not over heating.

So at this point, i ordered a oil switch and PCV valve. I went to replace both pieces yesterday on the 4runner and found that both seemed to be "new" looking. Neither showed signs of being 100k old. The PCV valve still rattled when i removed it. I still replaced it with a new one anyways. The Oil pressure sensor switch also looked like it was new, i replaced it anyways, After replacing both parts, i went for a test drive and once the engine came up to temperature the oil pressure light again came on at stop signs / red lights or when slowly reversing. I got home and again went to check the dipstick and immediately got hit with a hissing/sizzle sound again coming from the dipstick. I've checked twice and have no pending or stored engine codes so its not tripping anything but the sensor. The oil on the dipstick is reading at the second full dot when the engine is at operating temperature. So it doesn't look over or under and the oil is clean so the change was done by the dealership.

So i have a 3 year 36k extended warranty but I'm nervous with the car being in my possession for less than a week or 1000 miles, that the warranty company will claim "pre existing condition" from the previous owner and deny any repairs. I also don't know for certain (still reading the fine print) if there is a 60 day "hold" period from purchase before i can file any claims.

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So at this point, kind of at a loss, The warranty won't let me do my own work like taking off the valve covers to see if there is sludge or taking off the oil pan to check the pick up tube (Which i hear is a pain in the butt due to it being a 4x4) because I'm not a ASE mechanic or whatever, do i just take it in to a shop to start inspecting or is there some other things that i should be checking / doing?

Anyone else dealt with these scenario's, after replacing the cheap sensor and PCV valve and it not fixing the issue?

I've also read these motors make a lot of noise on cold start up so there is what sounds to be a top in knock but that seems to go away once at full operating temperature. The knock I'm referring to just sounds like piston slap but not rod knock.

If you have made it this far into my story, Thanks for listening. If you have any thoughts or feedback let me know.

 

I would take it back and return to the stealership if you can. Seems like too much baggage and issues here.

 

I would return that 4runner if it doesn't drive like new. In our friends group we have a 2016(I think) 4runner with a spacer lift on factory suspension now closing to be 100K miles, when I drove it last time I think around 75K miles the suspension was still good. He even uses cheap 85oct gas (not the recommended 87) and do own oil changes at home. Even though it's been maintained at a budget everything feels like new, except the cloth seat his son cut by a scissor.

I also drive my friends 2019 TRD Pro time to time even with almost worn tires still drives like new. At least in my experience my friends 4Runners with not much maintenance still doesn't show age.

 

Assuming proper maintenance and no physical abuse or wreck, a Gen 5 4Runner with 100k should still function as new. I’d ditto the above suggestions, return it and keep looking.

 

Bring it back to the dealer, though it sounds like they have already tried to fix this "problem" with those parts that seemed new.

2019 are super reliable and an issue like that is very odd, even at 100k or 300k. Your warranty would probably cover whatever it is, but it may be concern enough to fight and return it.

 

Have to agree with this. I said this in a different post but our 2019 with 80k miles still drives like my 2024 with 8k miles. I am curious to hear the resolution though. Could it be a dying oil pump?

I just did some additional reading and it appears that the oil pressure light could go off when idle if the wrong viscosity oil was used. Have you thought about changing the oil to your specifications and then having a go? That could be an easy and cheap troubleshooting step.

 

What others have said, take it back while you can!

 

Appreciate everyone and their thoughts so far. I'm not hopeful that the dealership would let me return it at this point even with very few miles driven on it since I've already signed all the documents and left with it. Lemon laws or cooling off periods don't really apply here. So i may drive up and give them some grief about it and see how that goes.

To Coachhomer question. I did read that as well and I'm thinking about trying 5W instead of the 0W and see if the light stops. I think i may try that this weekend since its a cheaper option just to try. Plus it would give me some peace of mind that the oil was done correctly and not by someone who doesn't care about their job as a lube tech.

I may just end up driving it and if there is an oil pump issue, just go until it blows a window in the block and then fight with the warranty company to get me a reman motor. Of though in the mean time keep up with all scheduled services like i should so that they can't call it neglect from me.

 

I’m sorry you’re having these problems OP, that really is frustrating. You’ve done everything I personally know to do, so the remaining option is to fight it out with the dealership, especially if you have only driven it since the weekend. Give your state attorney general’s office a call as well and find out what, if any, rights you have on your side.
I hope you get this resolved, so you can enjoy your new 4Runner trouble free.

 

I'm curious as to some of responses of "just take it back". Did I miss dealer time/mileage return policy on used or is this a Texas thing? If it is/OP can, agree with others. Buy used in my state, it's yours when you sign the paperwork unless explicitly says otherwise.

 

The rattle / knock on start up when its idled high is the sound of the valves, you can hear them thru the exhaust manifold and its much louder if you put your head down in the wheel well. The exhaust manifolds are quite thin and you can hear the valves thru them on start up due to high idle. This is quite normal and something you gotta live with. Not sure on the oil stuff, somebody was here last week or the week before also with low oil pressure light. Maybe someone will search the forum and find a link to that thread and see what came from it.

 

I see the same money back guarantee here in Denver CO for regular used (even for not certified pre-owned vehicles) .

 

Sorry to hear the problems @Titan

However, seems you are holding back some key information.

Your reluctance to return the vehicle back for dealership repairs seems strange.

Just my 2c


I have experienced this before. I had to return back the vehicle within the 30 days windows to an out of state dealership.

The repairs were too much/costly to pass my state inspection.


The dealership offered a price reduction or cancel the deal (ultimately send the SUV to the auction).


Ultimately took the offer. Paid the price. the SUV was a disaster. Money pit. Nissan Murano.


You do have rights within those 30 days window.

"As Is" vehicles are a red flag. Even when buying from Auctions.

 

welcome to the forum.
Agree, take it back like yesterday.
Is there a hidden reason it hasn't already been done?

 

You can't just return vehicles like you would a pair of shoes on Amazon. You have a federally protected legal 72 hour right to resend, but after that its no go. Unless he was lucky enough to have an iron clad return option written by his own lawyer or the dealer was gracious enough to offer it. Sounds like he put 1k on it anyway, so no backsies.

 

I know that I don't have any legal standing in Texas to return the sale since used cars carry an "as is" sale. So I'm not holding my breath that they would take it back and the next "option" that they would have that they could put me in as a swap if i raised enough hell with the dealership would put me way out of my price and comfort range. The dealer has no advertisements on their site or information on their site about cooling off periods or return periods if your not happy with the purchase.

The only thing they offer is a "6 month free" power train warranty in case of problems that only covers up to 2,000 dollars. Which i could use towards a potential oil pump replacement if that was the only issue, but the crankcase pressure may be something more than just an oil pump. Like i mentioned in the original post, i did buy an extended warranty which is owned by the Toyota corporation, but my concern is that they will try to claim pre existing because I've had it for such little miles and time.

 

Not sure you mentioned the "as is" clause in your initial post. You are actually stuck with it. But they might still do a goodwill repair. Remember to post your dealership reviews online after the interactions. Peace.

 

So, have you contacted the dealership?
If not, I surely would and explain to them that before you got home the oil light was coming on, explain to them what you wrote in this post about sound coming from dipstick upon removal!

Be assertive, but not rude.
You may have to go up the ladder on this one (at the dealership).

 

Low oil pressure as you are experiencing would not likely be due a worn oil pump. Most likely, the main bearings have excess clearance. Only fix for that is a new or rebuilt engine.

 

In buying a used vehicle, I do what op did but always take it to a mechanic I trust for a good check out. If seller won’t agree to that, I’m usually out of there. Only if there is a few day return policy would I consider not getting that 2nd opinion before purchase and then only if I could get that 2nd look within the return period.

 

Yikes

Yeet that back into dealership and find another used one

 

Bummer you are having this issue and I agree with other posters that you should start going down the road of working with the dealership on a return. However, unless I missed it in your OP, you say dealership but you don't specify whether it is a Toyota dealership, other brand dealership or one of the many used car lots. That might come into play also.

 

Welcome

 

I’ve seen crushed oil filters do this. Is it still the plastic oil cartridge or the aluminum? Perhaps they didn’t switch over the correct inner the tubing and crushed the filter. Just a thought

 

If they won't accept the vehicle back, another option to try is to have their maintenance shop replace the pump, free labor, and use the $2000 warranty to cover parts. Just another option to try.

 

Thx. for education. Is this a dealer-by-dealer policy or standard for every Denver dealer regardless??

@Titan,
Go talk to the seller, sooner is better. You seem down-to-earth, reasonable, etc. Understand hesitation, but answer from both seller and extended warranty underwriter will always be no unless you pursue. And let us know.

 

What company issued the warranty you refer to?
Is it a Toyota warranty-ie gold, silver etc.
Or is it from the dealer?
Post all the warranty details if you want advice.

 

Super common for the "lower oil pressure" light to come on. Super common.



Take that pile of shit back now.

 

A failing pump won’t make hissing sound from dipstick tube.