Ignition wires

So one of my to-do items on this '87 4Runner is a general tuneup. I ordered most of the necessary parts erring on the side of known name brands. However, in a few of the closed BaT auctions comments sections I saw someone saying that if you're not using genuine Toyota ignition wires there's no point and to just leave the old ones one. Right now I've got NGK sitting in my garage which seemed like the best I could buy on RockAuto.

A few questions. 1) what do you guys think about that? Is it really genuine Toyota or nothing for the ignition wires? 2) if so, can anyone point me in the direction of where to buy genuine toyota parts because the only place I've been able to find it is at the parts counter of the dealership and the prices they're quoting me feels like MB prices 3) is there anything else on this truck where I should be using only genuine Toyota parts?

 

Ahh you not building a race care just use it.

 

Not building a race car. However, I am getting ready to list it on BaT where the comments section latches onto minor things and can detract from the final sale value of the car. I don't want the comments section going on about me using cheap parts and having no response to it.

My theory with these auctions is it's important to do everything in the right way. If it's just this one guy who has it in his head that you need genuine Toyota wires then I'm willing to risk it. If there are multiple people in the community who think it's important to use genuine Toyota wires I'm willing to spend the extra $120 and buy them from the parts counter. The thing to keep in mind here is it's less about the wires themselves than it is sending a signal that everything was done properly. And FWIW, I've heard before on other Toyota models that certain parts (I think it was a MAF sensor on an early 2000s Corolla) are important to replace with genuine Toyota.

 

If you are trying to squeeze every $ out of it why list it on BAT?

 

That's where I think I can get my best return. Truck has 140k miles, no rust and the right drivetrain. I'm in the process of doing an analysis on N60 auctions but from qualitatively looking at every one over the past year in detail my bead on it is after paint+interior+lots of small fixes this truck will get between 15k-25k. The only ones I've seen get below 15k are either high mileage, rough or both.

I've never prepped a vehicle for BaT like this before so my guiding light here so to speak is just be meticulous and do everything right. So according to that theory (which could be wrong) small things like ignition wires count.

 

Well we can't see what it looks like but if you want that money it better be cherry.

Best of luck.

And if you are looking at the chart on BAT for you 4Runner need to also keep in mind when it was sold also. Some older listings on there.

 

Thanks. Cherry I can definitely do. The truck has good bones and relatively low miles. Everything else can be brought up to snuff. My buddy is a master with a paint gun and does some beautiful work. He's kind of showing me the ropes. Then I've got an interior guy who does immaculate upholstery work for pretty reasonable prices. Got her as a no-crank/no-start for a very reasonable price (truck runs great after pop starting though) so plenty of room to bring her up to BaT standards.

I'm just sweating the minor details at this point. Stuff like, I replaced the starter on my buddy's suggestion trying to pin down the no-crank. Wanted it quickly so I got an O'Reilly unit. Now I'm going back, returning it and getting a new AC-Delco which appears to be the best one can currently get. When I show receipts I want it to be apparent that nothing on my end was approached cheaply. That's why I'm tripping over something as minor as ignition wires. I think every small choice sends a signal and I want that signal to be "this was done right."

And yeah, I'm only taking into account auctions 1/1/24 and newer. Good point there.

 

I wouldn't pay over $10k for that but, good luck with the sale.

 

I mean, again full respray, new interior. You're looking at before pictures. You're welcome to head over to BaT and see what one in minty fresh condition with 140k is going for, I'm not going to push the point.

 

NGk plug wires would not dissuade me from looking at a vehicle for a potential purpose. I would be more interested in the drive train and frame based on the model year and mileage stated. Bring a trailer is not the be all end all in the automotive world.

 

I'd be more interested in what yours looks like when its done.

 

What venues would you suggest other than BaT?

 

Should have some results for you in about a month!

 

Local Ads not an auction.

Give you little more control than just setting a reserve and whoever goes over it goes over it.

 

Well, I will say a had a CaB auction fall through once on a Caddy CTS VSport and wound up getting about 5k more on a private sale with local ads than I would have on the CaB auction had it gone through. So Ive had first hand experience on where you're coming from.

My buddy that's going to do the paint does this consignment deal which is working out alright for him. He was having a hard time with local ads. Lots of tire kickers, lots of low ballers, few people with money. I'm convinced he would make a bit more with auctions (either online or in person). The advantages are the people who want a pristine N60, K5 Blazer or Full Size Jeep know where to go to look for one with an auction (or consignment). At the same time you have a national audience and those dollars are competing against one another. The downside is if they schedule your auction to end at 2pm on a Tuesday or for some reason the auction doesn't go very well you can get screwed. At the same time, I've inferred based on the "bid to" auctions that didn't meet reserve that they'll likely give me a reserve price that leaves plenty of room for profit. If they don't I guess that's a bridge to cross when I get to it.

 

Exactly. It's not minty original. Just another flip.

 

I didn't say minty original though. I said minty fresh. If you want minty original those are going for over 30. Read the listings my man. Like half of them say "paintwork in preparation for sale". What I'm doing here is not uncommon.

I've done my homework on this. The trucks that are selling for 10k all have well over 200k miles and are in rougher condition. It's possible I'm missing something but I'm confident enough to invest the time and money this is going to take.

As to just another flip, why don't you reserve judgement until after you've seen the finished product? I'm guessing you're not in the market for something like this but maybe you'll appreciate the time, energy and talent that will have gone into it.

 

Sumitomo!

 

But you're not doing the work or have the talent so what is there to appreciate? You're just a salesman chasing profit.

 

Guy, I genuinely have no interest in arguing with you about the merits of my project. I hope you have a great day and a wonderful weekend.

 

To answer the question, yes OEM is best. NGK is acceptable performance-wise if you can't get OEM. You probably have a better feel for how fickle buyers might be about this kind of stuff. My opinion is to do anything ignition and emissions related in OEM if possible. Also be aware that a fair bit of this stuff is becoming unobtanium on these older vehicles, MAF as you mentioned being a prime candidate. Ex. They changed the MAF design on the 5vz in '99 or '00 and now you can't get the pre '99 ones. Wiring harness is another. Best of luck.

 

Part # 90919-21343
Parts sites are indicating updated # is 90919-29055
And some sites indicate having them at $80-ish.

 

Thanks so much for your input.

Yes, I'm tending to think that it's best just to go ahead and get OEM. I feel like this is one of those things that could come up in the comments section and whereas I had an opportunity to put my best foot forward instead it winds up being a detriment. And I genuinely do want to provide the next owner with the best vehicle I can so if you guys think there's legitimate benefit to OEM, probably worth the extra money.

 

See what Megazip has to offer. Use not only the VIN but the body code on the door jam sticker.

www.megazip.net

 

The rule is TOYOTA OEM or TOYOTA Supplier for electrical parts.

NGK and Denso make and supply TOYOTA 4Runner Ignition wires. So, IMHO you're not going to get any better going OEM over what you sourced with the NGK.