Dealer work after installation of aftermarket skid

Please, no comments about DIY maintenance, I do what I can as 68yo.

Any experience on dealer issues when you take your 4R in for maintenance that might require them to remove and re-install. Am considering the RCI with the front plate that also closes the gap to the bumper.

Again, please dont hijack the thread with all the other interesting points about other skid products etc.....

 

They shouldn't have to drop the skid with the design of the RCI. I specifically bought the RCI skids because of the access for the oil filter and drain plug. This should prevent any maintenance monkey at the dealership from stripping stock skid plate bolts. Which is a problem that I've heard about.

 

I should have clarified, I am going to install for the same reason, I can do oil changes.

My concern is for other kinds of maintenance like servicing the diff or tcase or anything else which it blocks access to.

Bob

 

Yes, then it will have to be removed. It's not difficult, but I personally would have a hard time trusting someone else to do it and install it correctly. If I need to have a dealership or independent shop do work, I'll probably drop the skids before taking it in.

 

Dealer charged me extra $100 (or something like that) for removal and putting back.

 

That was my thought. Maybe just put the bolts in without the skid to stop crap from getting onto the threads.

 

It’s why I appreciate the factory plate on my Pro. There’s a level of expectation that Toyota provides adequate documentation on how to remove and replace that skid plate during servicing which should include proper removal and re-torquing of the mounting bolts.

That said, for anything aftermarket it might be a good idea to leave a pre-printed set of general instructions pointing out the locations of all aftermarket mounting bolt locations AND the proper torque values for them. Puts the service department on notice to do the job properly.

 

Just to be clear, I still have TRD Pro skid.

The extra labor is for the aftermarket transmission and transfercase skid which 4Runner don't have any from factory including TRD Pro.


for regular oil changes dealership don't charge extra labor for aftermarket RCI front skid on my TRD ORP. Dealerships love RCI or other aftermarket skids with maintenance cutout vs stock 4runners with regular skid or TRD Pro skid.

I have had problems with Toyota service department not knowing / don't care to install back TRD Pro skid. Now I go to a Toyota specialist independent shop. If I continue to go to Toyota dealership they would keep stripping TRD Pro skid bolts.

 

For further clarification, are you considering just the engine skid plate, or the transmission and transfer case additions also? That will determine the answer to your maintenance questions. If just the engine skid, nothing needs to be removed to service the transmission, transfer case, or drive shaft. The RCI engine skid replaces the 2-piece oem skid set. The skid most likely will need to come off for the front differential, but I'm not 100% on that.

 

It does need to come off to service the front diff.

 

I guess I’m fortunate that the dealership service department that I go to does really good work.

I get it about the separate 3rd party skid plates/armor which is why I mentioned having a little document to denote those specific fastener locations and torque values.

 

I was forced to go to a service shop the other day due to time constraints, and the tech jokingly told me to upgrade my skid plate to one that had an oil filter access hole.

 

yeah and not cross thead the bolts and torque them down to 100 ft lbs

 

FYI, not too long after I installed an RCI engine skid plate (myself, to ensure nothing got stripped or ruined while removing the stock skid or installing the RCI) I took my 4R to a shop I had had success with in the past with for oil changes on various vehicles. Upon receiving back the vehicle, I noticed a few days later that the skid was full of oil. So even having a skid with an oil filter access panel doesn't insure a mess won't be made, unless you do it yourself. I've done it myself since then. Should I decide to take it somewhere to have the oil changed, I will remove the skid prior to that appointment.

I personally found the RCI skid a bit too cumbersome to work with on an oil change, even with the access door. It may be due to having had the KDSS version, or not. I sold that skid and went back to the oem 2-pc. engine skid, but that front skid is a PITA to take on and off, with the bumper filler piece you have to take off first. I then got the Talon's Garage aluminum engine skid, which replaces the front oem skid and works with the back, and also has an access panel for the filter housing. I plan to revisit that process later this year on my next oil change. If the access panel still doesn't seem to be the answer, the Talon's version is much easier to remove, as the plastic bumper filler piece doesn't have to come off. 4 bolts and done.

 

Why I switched to the Talons Garage skid, front half comes off easily for oil changes.

 

i wished i would have seen this post earlier, my RCI skid plate just arrived yesterday. Ugh. I noticed the access panel isnt too big. would placing a rag up there before doing the filter help catch some of the stray oil coming down?

 

Certainly couldn't hurt. It also helps to use one of those filter housing drain tools, with a length of clear tubing, to drain the housing prior to removing it.

 

i just ordered that filter housing drain tools. Again my RCI just arrived yesterday but looking at it, it seems like there is nowhere for any spillage to go and it would just sit in the skid plate. I may be wrong but yeah, just ordered that drain hose. Thank you and have a great weekend

 

I've had the RCI skids for a couple of years now, and I have never had an issue with oil spilling into the plate. Granted, I have the MotivX oil filter drain tool, but isn't it just common sense to use it regardless? As far as the oil pan goes, there might be a couple of dribbles toward the end, but they're easily wiped up.

 

I think I’ve seen a few vids on RCI skid plate installation…. Like any other skid plate set, they may be easy to install, but they are putzy. And most mechanics using a lift would reasonably use a tall jack to hold the weight of the plates while they undo or reinstall everything. In other words I wouldn’t expect they would remove/reinstall for less than an hour. But if you avoid the trnsmission and transfer plate skids, it shouldnt be a huge deal for the times you need to change out the diff oil.

 

I have a 2024 Pro and have not yet needed to change the oil & filter. I have an idea that might help when I do it myself.
Before I unbolt the skid plate, if I tie up the front (or back) of the plate with some bailing wire, then unbolt the plate. So now the plate is laying down/hanging from the front (or back) while I change the oil & filter. When done it will be easier to just have to tilt the back (or front) up and start the bolts. Thus not having to hold up the entire weight of the plate to reinstall it.
This is an untested idea.

 

It makes sense, but having had a TRD (aftermarket) plate, I don't know where you'd put the wire. The skid has no holes in it except for the bolt holes, which have bolts in them...

The non-TRD oem skid has two hooks on the front, which will allow it to hang without removing it, but most just take it off.

 

What's really disturbing is all the stories of Toyota service techs not caring about the R&R (mostly the replacement) of the skid plate bolts and just using an impact to run them up and be done.

 

^^That's what happened to mine. Three bolts on the main skid and two bolts on the rear skid.
I drilled and retapped all eight to the next size up (same pitch) as to avoid different size sockets.

 

Maybe take out one bolt, add the wire or zip tie through that hole, then take out the other bolt & add the wire or zip tie?

 

I have the Pro skid and I just use a floor jack and a 10”x10” piece of plywood to hold the weight of the skid when removing and then reinstalling it . The jack holds all the weight and it’s really easy to get the bolts started nice and straight.

 

Did the oil come from the oil pan drain bolt or from the filter somehow. My plan would be to also install the Fumoto valve which should eliminate any getting on there if I use a tubing over the Fumoto nipple down to my bucket. I have a new (but used) 2024 TRD ORP bought with 20K few months ago, planning for my 5K oil change in another month or so.

 

Seeing as how I discovered this later, no telling what they did or where the oil came from. I did learn that if I get the urge to take it somewhere for an oil change for whatever reason, the skid will come off and stay at home.