Leveling 2023 TRD Pro

I finally replaced the stock tires with 275 Wildpeak AT4Ws on stock trd wheels and suspension and I'm experiencing some rubbing at full turn while braking/compressing the suspension on a bump or something. I've been wanting to level the truck for a bit now and since this is happening I'm thinking about doing it sooner than later. I'm debating on doing a collar lift like with the Westcott leveling kit(https://westcottdesigns.net/product/2021-4runner-fox-trd-pro-lift-kit/) or replacing the springs with something like the Eibach springs (https://eibach.com/product/E30-82-071-05-22?epsid=3458). I don't know what the advantages/disadvantages are to either but I want to keep the original suspension as close to stock (other than the level/lift) as I quite like how the ride is now. If anyone has any recommendations or advice I'd gladly appreciate it.

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! We had a leveling/lift when our 4Runner was new. Had some rubbing like you, and Nimby had me perform a front inner fender adjustment. It also could include a front fender trim. Taking a couple screws out of the bottom, pushing the inner fender in and re-attaching, and trimming the bottom of the fender. After that, NO rubbing! Good luck, I hope Nimby sees this and explains the operation, I think he says it better than I have explained. Try the "search" at the top right corner of the forum also.

 

Thanks! I've seen stuff about that but wouldn't doing the level fix the rubbing anyways? theres a ton of conflicting info about this stuff and there isnt a reliable off road shop to go to to get info on it near me, just trying to get an idea on the best options.

 

If it were me id go with a 1" lift spring up front..

 

Where's the rubbing happening? If it's the front fender/wheel well, try to push the fender liner back (even though the Pros have this done at port). If it's on the mud flaps, remove/trim the mud flaps.

 

In lieu of a memory dump here's a good read on the differences between spacers and adjustable coilovers. From all the info that I learned from scattered posts on this site, talking to mechanics and SCCA racing buddies (which really isn't that helpful since racing suspension setups are a completely different animal than for off-highway needs) I decided to go with the Eibach Pro Lift Kit on my 21 going on about 18 months and I'm pretty sure that the only difference between your 22 and the 21 has to do with the updated shock design as up to the 21 model year Toyota and Fox needed to address a 'bump' sound coming from the initial shock design and an update TSR was issued to correct the issue. Here's the skinny on the TRD Pro Fox shock design (as it pertains towards the TRD line as its introduction around 2019.)

With that base knowledge of spacers vs other lift methods I called up Eibach and spoke with one of the engineering staff about the Pro Lift springset. It was described to me about why they designed such a modest amount of lift and not going up to and over 2". In short, this has much to do with not wanting a customer to need UCA upgrades and that the Fox Shock bypass zones and lifting to a point where it wouldn't be too detrimental to the shock at full extension. Since I readily understood the 'why' I pulled the trigger and went with the Pro Lift Kit. I received my springs and had them installed right away. Two things immediately noticed, the ride felt slightly firmer (the coil set added a good +50 lbs of capacity at the corners) and my 4R had a gain of about +1.4" on the front and just over 1" in the rear. Being a more 'modest' lift it kept my front end alignment numbers within acceptable limits (and not needing to swap out UCAs nor LCAs as for those going 2" and higher!) The front nose dive and rebound (yes even the Pro Fox shocks still had a little bit but not as severe as the Limited and SR5 models) actually felt like it increased, albeit slightly, let me explain. When adding lift you are actually shifting the starting point of the shock stroke downwards into the shocks 'Ride Zone', a softer region. The Fox front shock bypass zones (ref. the article above) like the other major competitors has a unique design feature that provides damping control throughout the stroke range. Some might call this 'control' progressive.

With all that info as a primer here's what I've experienced, so far. This image shows my rig' current stance with about +150 lbs additional weight over the front axles and about 200lbs over the rear (I have a number of mods that are not visible) so its current stance is about +0.75" rear and +1" front. Notice that the top of the wheel hubs on my rig are below the top level of the Predator step rails vs yours where they are about even if not a touch above.



Now here's what I've experienced with this (modest) lift kit so far. Prior to the addition of the front bumper and winch, which account for most of the added 150 lbs up front, the basic ride was as I said earlier felt softer yet my 4R still feels well mannered even in tight cornering. This is because as soon as the front shocks compress (albeit a tad bit more stroke length, over nominal, in order to reach the next bypass zone ('bump'). But once it does reach that region the ride response is the same as without the added lift during a 'bump' event. In order to put this into context, imagine a stock Pro, you hit the brakes and lets say you perceive the front end dives about a couple inches, with the Pro Lift springs you would observe something a bit more (say 2" - 3") With the added weight of my bumper and winch, etc., this dive I perceive close to the factory observation. Make sense?

As for clearances, I think that really depends upon 'where' you're getting the rubbing/interference. Meerly lifting would only shift the amount of suspension compression required to get the same interference. While I highly doubt you'd need to go so far as a BMC I believe that also depends upon where your front alignment numbers are at. There's so many points where variances in how components are assembled together that you may have your front end castor abgke a bit more negative or positive than others. Mine was just a hair positive with respects to where the cams actually are set to compared to others, yet my measured castor angle was on factory spec.

You may only need minor mud flap or front bumper trim adjustments but again that depends upon where your interferences are at.

 

Nice write-up. I've actually been considering the Eibach Spring lifts lately. I'm getting 285s soon and thinking of getting the springs done at the same time. Did you need to realign your rig after the spring swap?

 

I wasn’t certain prior to installation but with any amount of lift it is a good idea to at least have the alignment checked. Mine needed a little tweak to get the numbers into spec.