Bilstein 6112 or 5100

Will
Installing these shock and spring combos void any Mfg warranty’s? Does Toyota parts sell these?

 

not to my knowledge

 

Define what is a better ride to you? You have to give from one to gain in another. Eliminating things like body roll by firming up shocks or springs or both will typically translate into a bumpy ride off road.

Bilsteins will noticeably firm up the ride but again, translates into a bumpier ride off road, especially with slow speed/slow cycling off roading.

 

Hi all - I just replaced on my 16 TRD Pro the Bilstein OEM with 6112s on the highest setting, and I have the 2” super flex coils out back. My shop put the springs and struts on the highest setting and it looks great and level with the back, but I am now noticing a significant clunk (front driver) as I travel and hit speed bumps at my usual speed where I never previously had any clunking.

I have stock UCAs on it and I’m not entirely convinced that’s the issue, although it could be that, perhaps worn bushings, or half wondering if something wasn’t installed correctly. I also see feedback that there could be a burn in period for the 6112s to soften up a bit, but this definitely sounds more substantial than needing to be broken in. Additionally, it does sound like it is only on the drivers side, not the passenger.

Has anyone encountered this or should I just take this back to the shop immediately for diagnosis?

 

I don't have 6112's but I have something similar with my Eibach adjustable front shocks set at 1.6" lift height. To me, it sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side.

I've never been able to diagnose it definitively, but I suspect it's the sway bar coming in contact with the coil at full droop. They do have sway bar spacers for this scenario but I haven't tried them yet. It might be something worth checking out as a starting point.

 

Did you use new OEM top hat assemblies when you installed the 6112’s?
I know some aftermarket ones will contribute to what you are experiencing.
I would bring it back, have them look at it.
I’ve got 6112’s with OEM top hats and they don’t make noise.

oh, never heard of a “burn in to soften up” period. That’s not how shocks work…. IMHO

Without a drop kit and 6112’s set to highest level, OEM UCA’s could contribute to your issue.

 

All OEM everything else including UCAs and top hat. I did not put anything else in new, all original.

 

never had any clunk sounds when i did my 6112s on 2” with stock uppers, but then again I did the install. Id check to see if all if the hardware is torqued down to spec on wverythign they touched during the install

 

The clunking isn’t right. Depending on how high your lift is, you could be topping out the shocks (full extension). The solution to that is to lower it a bit.

If it’s not that, it could be install error, or a bad shock.

 

im leaning towards install error: missing bushing or other parts or improper torque. But you could be right about height. Highest setting as OP said its on, is like 3” i beleive on those new 6112’s.

 

I’ve been at around 3in for a while, and I never experienced any topping noise, but I’m a slow poke. But you never know…if I were to run it harder over bumps, it might start topping out and making noise.

 

So are Blisten 5100 shocks mainly for off road usage?

I put them on my 15 4Runner a few months ago bc I was doing a lot of updates and they seemed to be the recommended ones to get. Not sure if I'm imagining that or not but the front of the 4Runner seems is a lot more upright in stance or less droopy looking after the install.

 

Turns out it is the suspension topping out - the UCAs are rubbing on the spring of the 6112 and already have some paint chipped away. What are the best aftermarket UCAs for 6112s that have better clearance to get around the spring at full wheel travel? TIA.

 

A lot of people hate on the SPC's, but mine (the new sealed variety) has been great so far. Though just around 5k on them, but so far so good and they were able to dial in my alignment. I'm sure others will chime in as there are a wide variety of UCA's in use by members here.

 

OME or Camburg imo

 

If your UCA is contacting your coil at full droop, you might want to clock that coil so that the UCA doesn't come into contact with it at that spot anymore.

If you don't do that, a new aftermarket UCA could do the exact same thing.