What to do after 4 to 5 months in storage

Hello everyone,


I have a 4Runner that will be getting taken out of storage soon. It will have been sitting for about 4 months. Before being put into storage:


-Ethanol free gas was used to fill up the tank. Fuel stabilizer was also added.

-Engine oil and filter were changed out for new

-Negative battery terminal was disconnected


I was planning to replace the oil and filter again before starting it up. But I was wondering whether or not to run the engine before hand. During normal oil changes I let the engine run a bit for the oil to flow out easier.


However, I was told with the oil sitting for 4.5 months I should just drain it and replace with new before that first start up.


Is there any potential harm in doing it one way or the other?


To take it even one step further: a guy I work with said to replace the oil with new, drive the car around for a day or two, and then replace the oil again. He said it would flush out whatever contaminants were in there from storage.


This seems like overkill, but I’ve never stored a car for months and I plac on keeping this one forever.

Thanks

 

Since the oil was changed before storage, Check the oil to make sure it is the correct level. Run it till the oil is supposed to be changed. Changing oil before extended storage I believe is to rid the system of as much moisture as possible. My owners manual for my 4 stroke snowmobile has the oil being changed before extended storage for moisture residue in the engine. Granted a snowmobile and a 4Runner aren't mechanically close, but that is why I would do it. You're probably close when you say it's overkill when you talk about changing it before 1st startup. Put a slow charge on the battery to make sure it's charged. Putting fuel stabilizer in was probably good, been using it myself, ethanol laden fuel sucks! Good way to corrode carb parts and fuel systems. I don't see one way being any worse than the other, as far as running it.

 

I promise that his 4Runner will not have any carb issues!

 

I know that, it was a reference to the corrosive nature of the ethanol laden gas. You mean the carb will be fine on my fuel injected snowmobile too?! Ha Ha

 

For the battery, you can just disconnect it. Chargers are a fire hazard that may be low, but is never zero so unless you're close by, it's best to just disconnect it and leave it in place. A new, full tank of gas should be good for at least six months so I think they'd be ok there. Just need to make sure it's full to minimize water and oxygen in the tank.

 

Yeah, I knew that you were aware that there are no carbs on the 4Runner.

Couldn’t resist though…

 

Owners of rare and exotic cars use trickle chargers more or less constantly.

Just don’t buy garbage and it’s fine.

 

I would spin the motor without allowing to start.
Get the engine oil fully circulated before actually starting the motor. Fuel is not needed in the dry cylinders. So I would disable both fuel and spark till lube is circulated.

 

Ethanol gas has no detrimental affect on sealed fuel systems. Fuel injection will not allow moisture to enter the system.

 

I'm no expert but I used to be a powertrain engineer. Your oil is clean. Contamination is not accumulating during storage (ask your expert friends to clarify what specific contamination they are talking about). Even if you didn't change your oil before storage there isn't anything to worry about ...have you or your friends ever heard of one real case of any issue caused by contaminated oil during storage? Are we thinking the engine rusts from the inside out? I'd like to see any evidence for any concern. The Miata forum beats this to death too. While it MIGHT be directionally helpful to spin the engine with the starter to circulate the oil before firing the engine as one poster mentioned it also MIGHT be worse since the cylinder walls rely on splash lubrication which will be best if you just start the engine.

All you need to do is start it and drive it. If changing the oil two more times makes you happy you can be sure the sequence doesn't matter.

If you want to pamper the snots out of your vehicle run premium fuel. It's more pure so your engine will stay cleaner. Might even make a difference in super high mileage reliability. Google it; it's not a myth.

You're smart to use a forum to double-check your friends' advice.

 

Sometimes I step into it!

 

OK, whatever you say.

 

Ok, so explain to me how moisture can enter a closed fuel injection system. Don't miss it, now's your chance to enlighten us all.

 

You should be fine. I had one that sat stored from October-April and had stabil added, and a battery tender on. I just let it idle for about five minutes before shifting into gear each spring. My new 2024 is same way covered, stabiled, battery tender and to never see salt

 

No need to do anything with the engine oil coming out of storage. Just drive it like usual. A modern synthetic oil isn't going to degrade just sitting in the engine for 4 months. My Tacoma is a trail toy, so it easily sits for 4 months or more during the off season. The 4Runner's engine is more ancient and a lot simpler.

Focus your efforts on rodent prevention. Chewed wiring can total your vehicle. Set traps all around the vehicle. Discard that cosmetic plastic cover over the intake manifold to reduce available shelter for nests. Drench all the wiring harness bundles you can get to under the hood with a rodent repellent, especially under the intake manifold. Just be sure to spray on a cold engine. https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOMCAT-Rodent-14-oz-Rodent-Repellent/1000763452

Release the parking brake and chock the wheels. Don't want the brake shoes rusting to the rotor hat.

 

The heat of excess fuel returning to the tank from the injection process in cold weather is a known contributor of moisture on partially full tanks, this process goes on in diesel and gas vehicles alike. Condensation in the tank (moisture) causes rust on metal components. A closed system, hardly. Vented, return lines, evap. purge valves, far from "closed".

 

I am no mechanic but I get what you’re saying about cold/moisture/condensation. For myself mine won’t be started till the earliest is April after the winter temps. As far as the OP maybe this does come to play a bit now with winter upon us.

I can’t worry to much about this stuff. Sooner or later something gets us all. Hell my 4R will outlive me at this point.

 

I would love to put ours away until the nice weather was upon us! Mama's daily driver though. If you want something to go wrong, it seems like it happens when it's cold out. -7 here in Wisc. this morning, it is brrrr out! Good Day Mac.

 

Yeah same here in MI not quite as cold but that’s coming out this weekend I see. I figure use the old Accord all winter and why introduce salt to a new ride when not needed.

Good Lord willing someday I’ll retire and spend winters somewhere warmer and with sunshine. This stuff gets old real quick with each year I get older.

Have a good day also buddy.

 

Most of my cars sit for double that. You don't need to do anything for 5 months of storage.

 

Yep. Four months doesn't really require anything especial beyond usual fluid level check. New cars on dealer lots can sit for a year or even more before they are sold with very few miles driven. All of my cars see relatively few miles now so they all get annual oil change.

 

I bought a WRX once and traded in a pickup.

And then gas prices surged, even by CA standards.

I went to get my first oil change and my pickup was exactly where it had been parked after I traded it in, with cobwebs coming off the bumper.

 

There's a difference between keeping a car up in your garage because you might want to drive it in a few weeks and putting it storage knowing you won't touch it for 5 months. A battery won't self-discharge in that time so there is zero reason to use a charger.

 

My now 18 year old Ford was produced in late 2005 as MY 2006, I bought it in Jan 2007 as a left over model year with 6 miles on it. I suspect most of the 6 miles was from the factory yard to rail and then transport between holding lots and such, and after that it was moved occasionally on the lot when they needed to shift cars. Still runs fine today.

A 2014 Ram pickup I bought was a similar story as I bought over a year after it was built, I still see it around as the buyer who bought it from me a few years ago lives near me.

 

Oil gets better with age.

 

4 - 5 months is nothing.

Start her up and go. Some people getting all worried like it was sitting for years.

 

Surprised it hasn’t been mentioned yet, but since it’s been sitting, make sure your blinker fluid is topped off, and the stalk is well lubricated before you attempt to change lanes…good to go.

 

Don't forget to reboot the flux capacitor.

 

OP, It's good that you disconnected the negative side of the battery. Because current is being drawn down from the radio and clock.
Post #8, @Hungryhawk, describes pulling the ignition and fuel relays/fuses to give the engine a few seconds, maybe 10-15, the let the engine rotate while the oil system pressurizes itself before the cold start up circuit at 1,000 to 1,500 rpm.
And I think changing the oil before start up is unnecessary.

 

4-5 months isn't much. You took the right precautions for the fuel.

I'd probably check the oil before startup and let her eat. All good.