Type of bushings?

Hey guys! How’s everyone doing? I recently bought a super clean 01 4Runner and I was inspecting. Do you guys happen to know what bushings these are called? My mechanic checked everything else out and suggested i switch out the steering rack bushings. But i was wondering which one these are because they look worn down too.

 

Those are your sway bar link bushings. You can get this set of bushings to replace all the bushings on your sway bar. The four small ones are for the links, and the two large ones are for the sway bar itself.

 

Thanks! Mine are pretty worn right? I should replace them? Haha just making sure.

 

They could definitely use a refresh.

Also, here's info (links to parts, step-by-step with photos, and tools) for replacing the steering rack bushings as well. You need to remove the sway bar to do that, so they are two good jobs to do together.

Step-by-Step Steering Rack Bushing Replacement on a 3rd Gen 4Runner – AdventureTaco

 

Thanks boss! Really appreciate it. Last question haha, do you think I would need an alignment after getting this done?

 

You will not need an alignment after doing the sway bar bushings.

You will not need an alignment after doing the steering rack bushings, if you do them as shown in the linked guide.

The only time you'd need an alignment with this is if you loosen the OTREs when you're doing the steering rack bushings. Again, the guide never has you do that, so it'd be something you did "for some other reason"/accidentally/etc.

 

Sorry guys! Which bushings are these?

 

Those are your lower control arm bushings. They are a royal pain to change out, and you'll need to change out the following at the same time:

• Note, it's much easier to change out the entire lower control arm than just changing the bushings in the existing lower control arms. These are replacement lower control arms that will work for you.
• All alignment hardware (the alignment cams), since they usually have to be cut out in order to remove the originals.
  • 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Sleeve (48409-35050)
  • 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Nut (48452-35020)
  • 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Bolt (90080-11283)

• The lower ball joints (because they are a known failure point, and if you're changing the lower control arms, you should put in new ones). You MUST use OEM LBJs for this (expensive, but necessary):
  • Left: (43340-39465)
  • Right: (43330-39585)

Zoom out a bit for some more context. I don't know what these pictures are showing. (The 3rd photo looks like it could be the rear lower control arms or the lateral rod (panhard bar), but it's unclear which because you're so close.)

 

Adding to the above, pretty much every bushing on your truck should be replaced at this age. There are some that you can live with while making a broader plan. The lower control arm (LCA) is one of them. I would probably wait to tackle that until you are ready to do a full suspension refresh, and at the same time get new Upper control arms and coilover shocks (turbodb is right on - LCAs are a PITA; alignment necessary).

Agree with the last pic being too close to tell at this time, but most of the rear bushings you can wait on too. For every bushing you replace, the truck will feel more planted and bit easier driving, but few are truly “have tos” except the LBJs, or if you’re having alignment &/or tire wear issues

The Lower ball joints (also linked above) are something you should swap out pretty immediately unless it’s been done by the previous owner semi-recently. The LBJs are an area where you can get catastrophic failure (poor design by Toyota on these 3rd gen 4R/1st gen Tacomas), and it’s just good practice to swap them every 50k miles/ 10 years at a minimum. Swapping the lower ball joints is a very easy job, but one where you definitely only want to use the OEM Toyota parts- make sure to get new bolts as well. No alignment necessary. Note: you can usually borrow a ball joint separator (the OTC kit linked in the guide below) from autozone etc if you don’t want to purchase the kit (or you can use the hammer method and skip the separator all together).

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...s-lbj-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Thanks man! Very thorough i appreciate it. So technically, I should just replace the lower ball joints primarily alone with the steering rack bushings? the rest, such as, lower control arms and LCA bushings can wait until I get a lift kit done (give or take a few months I’ll do that)?

 

Sounds great! I appreciate it. I just ordered some ball joints

 

Just to make sure, this LCA you posted is substantial? With that I can install new OEM lower ball joints. In addition, I didn’t get the new cam bolts and nuts because mine look fairly greased and not rusted. Should that be okay?

 

Yes, the OEM LBJs will work just fine with those lower control arms.

The problem with the cam/alignment hardware is that it generally rusts inside the lower control arm bushings and looks fine on the outside. The only way to know is to try to remove it. My recommendation would be to purchase the replacements and return them if you don't end up needing them (but you probably will need them; even in a salt-free western state, all of mine were rusted in).

 

Sounds good. Thanks. The link to the cam alignment hardware has the parts are sold out. I just need 4 cam bolts and nuts right?

 

They all show in stock for me. You need 4 of each.

bolts: Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Bolt (90080-11283)


nuts: Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Nut (48452-35020)


sleeves: Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Sleeve (48409-35050)

 

Sounds good. I found these. I just need to purchase the 4 bolts separately.

$40 Hihaha No.48409-35050/48452-35020 Lower Control Cam Plate Toe Adjust Camber for Toyota 4Runner 1996-2004 / Camber Caster Adjusting Bolt Kit/Metal / 4Sets / Silver Tone

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBSDVZ4B

 

The non-OEM alignment hardware is known to fail quickly and catastrophically, which is why the OEM stuff is (much more) expensive.

You can do either, but you'll likely find that you have to swap to OEM if you go with the cheap ones first.

 

True. I’ll get what’s left in stock for the OEM on Amazon and pick up the others from Toyota later

 

So i bought the lower control arms, lower ball joints and bolts, all of the cam hardware that you suggested. Along with front sway bushings (I’m going to just replace anyway, the lift is gonna be later later) and steering rack bushings. My mechanic said he can do those easily. I don’t have the proper garage or equipment but one day i want to start workin on it! Appreciate you guys for the help. Truly. Can’t wait to start on this build. Any other maintenance you guys suggest? (Other than all the bushings eventually) my frame is in prime condition from what i was told.

 

I’d have your mechanic look at the health of your radiator, the other thing that is a “catastrophic” would be the “pink milkshake” for automatic transmissions. Automatics have a transmission oil cooler and if the radiator fails the coolant mixes with the trans fluids and causes a pink sludge that torches the tranny. You don’t have to worry about this with a manual.

however, have the mech look for cracks starting to form and overall health of the coolant, do a flush if necessary.

and again, to echo turbodb, my cam bolts needed to be cut when swapping the LCAs as well, even though the truck spent most of its life in TX. Good on you for being prepared

 

flush, as in just switching out all the fluids? Again, super appreciative of all this info. Love learning from yall.

 

Yes, in this case the coolant, it’s a simple process you can do in your driveway, just time consuming. If you do flush your own, use only distilled water, then refill with Toyota or Asian Pink or red 50/50 coolant. Probably good to have him check the power steering fluid (normal DexIII ATF) and brake fluid at the same time. All of the flushes are simple just take some time. Probably should also swap the rear and front differential fluids, as well as the transfer case fluids (assuming you have a 4x4, if you’re 2WD, it’s just the rear differential) as well, which is as simple as an oil change - you can use 75w-90 for all three

edit: just saw in your tag you have a 4x4, so all three

edit2: also have him grease all the zerks on the driveline, there’s like 8 or 9 IIRC

 

I will say, having a solid frame makes everything worth it on the deferred maintenance- may be painful to do on the outset, but you’ll be good for another 100k if you do!

last thing to go over would be timing belt and spark plugs. When doing the timing belt have the mech get the full Aisin kit. You’ll want all pulleys and thermostat replaced at the same time as it’s a PITA to get in there - so may as well get er done. Aircabinman on eBay sells a full kit of OEM and is a trusted source for lots of us DIYers for this job. Spark plugs go DENSO (K16TR11) - I’d avoid Amazon, and get them from a Toyota dealer or Toyota specific site, lots of counterfeits on Amazon and eBay for the sparkies

 

To this point ^^^, if you have the 3.4 v6, the timing belt/water pump/engine belts would definitely be a good thing to take care of if you don't know when it was last done. @rnrTimmy - do you have the 3.4 v6, or the 2.7 4-cyl?

 

Sounds great man! Will do, can this possibly wait? I know the timing belt was done recently this year.

 

Ya timing belt was done this year! I have a 3.4 v6

 

Update: as of now for maintenance, I’m having my mechanic switch out my steering rack bushings (all polyurethane) front sway bar bushings,front LBJs and OEM bolts, front LCAs with all new CAM hardware. Got my tires rotated then I’ll do an alignment afterwards. This will all be done next week. I’ll eventually do the rest, but all my fluids were recently changed and timing belt was done this year. The service for the listed above should be okay for now right? My main problem was just the front bushings especially on my steering rack (said my mech).

 

You should be all set for a while!

 

Just to triple check. These LCAs from Metrix, are they pretty good and can take a beating from mild off-roading? It’s mostly gonna be for my daily driver, roadtrips, and mild off-roading at times. But i just wanted to make sure because I am going to get this done soon.

 

Yeah, they will be fine. There's not much to go wrong / wear out with LCAs besides the bushings (as compared to other parts), so those will be just fine.