Towing Newbie Question

I’ve tried my searching so I apologize if this has been asked.

Can a ‘23 ORP tow a travel trailer with 3500 GVWR safely?

I know max is 5000, but don’t want to endanger myself or damage the vehicle.

would be 2 adults, 2 large dogs.

I’m fine w having to take my time with it since I know it won’t be fast, just don’t want to strain the vehicle.

 

You'll get a lot of guys chiming in (who know WAY more than I do), but I'll say this: Get a trailer brake right away and make sure you do your safety checks before you start towing.

1) Check the tires on the trailer.
2) Test your brake lights.
3) Check, re-check and check again your safety chains. God, I cannot stress this enough.
4) Secure all cargo in the trailer. You don't want that weight shifting around while driving.
5) Don't fill up any black/gray/potable water until you get close to your destination. That's additional weight that you don't want unless ABSOLUTELY necessary.

When towing up an incline, I think the recommended gear to keep it in is S4. I'm pretty sure the other guys who chime in will say the same, and may recommend you keep it in that gear for the duration of the tow.

The weight isn't the issue. It's getting it there SAFELY. I'd suggest a wireless camera setup too, if you can swing it. It'll help you with blind spots and backing up.

 

thanks for the insight! I may be overthinking the weight part solely because I don’t want to wear out or strain the powertrain.

 

You're welcome. Just accelerate slow, keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front of you (so you don't have to brake hard) and keep it under 65MPH. Remember, you want to get there safely. Safely & "On Time" don't always correlate.

 

I tow my little trailer in S4 and I find the key to getting reasonable mileage is keeping your speed down. Even if the speed limit is 80mph, I'll sit in the right lane going 65mph, I'm not in a hurry. I managed to average 19.5mpg last spring, though granted my trailer only weighs approx. 1000lbs.

 

4Runner probably will hate you on any hills but will be fine.

 

A transmission cooler and a brake controller will go a long way for peace of mind. Running in S4 up hills as mentioned above is the trick to keeping your transmission temps down.

 

Are RPMs much to worry about?

 

Well you don't want to be cruising at 4K RPM all day.

 

Adding some thoughts to some of the great advice so far.

We tow just under 5000 loaded, but it is a boat and has less wind resistance than a trailer. Brakes on both trailer axles. Make sure proper weight on hitch ball. Loading your trailer behind or ahead of its axles will affect this. Don’t guess, go to a truck scale with typical load and verify your loaded trailer weight and distribution. Usually 8-10% on tongue is recommended, but it varies by application and number of axles. Drive sensibly. Make sure rear end does not sag too much. If so, upgrade springs or use airbags. Verify headlight aim is ok with trailer. A lift is not your friend when towing. Lower is better. Tow in 4th gear or less. Be patient up long grades. Keep in mind, a 4runner is a “compromise” tow vehicle. Short wheel base is also not ideal, which is why weight distribution becomes so important.

We have been towing stuff for more than 40 years, with 4Runners for 10 or so. Never any mechanical or reliability issues other than flat tires. Be prepared, be smart. If towing your trailer feels “squirrelly”, it probably is, so stop and determine why. Safety for yourself and others is your priority.

Finally, please signal lane changes. It is sad I even have to say that, but in Florida, it is a forgotten art.

Good luck, have fun.

 

Great response! Thank you

 

For a travel trailer, recommended tongue weight is 10-15%

OP, I'd look into a WDH with sway control and take the time to make sure it is set up right (trailer places should know how to do this but many simply don't.)

Other things to look at are making sure you're not over GVWR with two adults, two dogs, stuff in the T4R and with trailer hooked up. You may need to load more into the trailer to stay under GVWR (and then you should also look at GCWR which, honestly, I'm not even sure what the gross combined vehicle weight rating is for a 4runner, I just know I hit that before any other limit on my F150).

 

GVWR and GCWR is where it starts to lose me. I’ve been trying to figure it out but it’s all foreign to me so far.

 

I’ve been eyeing a trailer made by Mission Overland - the Summit model and that seems like it should be able to be pulled ok. Single axle, looks somewhat aerodynamic.


https://missionoverland.com/models/the-summit/

 

My brother in-law tows one of those with his 4R. Besides the crappy gas mileage he's happy with how the 4R tows it. Of course he wishes it had more power over the mountain passes.

 

You've received some really good advice above and I won't repeat any of it, but I will add one caution. When it comes to towing, most newcomers focus on "Can I pull it?". While that's important, the more important question is "Can I stop it." Just remember that you're going to have about 3,500 pounds behind you pushing your 4Runner every time you brake. Obviously, that increases your braking distance. Drive accordingly. I didn't see anything on the Mission Overland website about adding trailer brakes as an option. I would suggest that you check with them on that. Even surge brakes would be better than no brakes at all.

 

We bought a camper trailer last summer and I was new to GVWR, GCWR and such too. Here are some notes that might help. Others may see errors and chime in (and I definitely welcome the feedback if it helps me ensure my rig is safe!). I drive a 5th gen (2011) SR5. The camper trailer is a V-TREC V2 (made by Rockwood or one of their spin offs).

Generally, I checked that worst case vehicle GVWR + trailer GVWR < GCWR (purple numbers); that my fully loaded trailer would be less than my adjusted towing capacity (Green numbers. You lose power at higher altitude. I read somewhere that you'll lose about 20% going over passes in Colorado); and that the tongue load of my fully loaded trailer would be < 500 lbs (blue numbers). I assumed the tongue load was 11% since the target is 9-11% and 11% would be the heaviest tongue load. This is something I still need to confirm at a scale.

• Total load capacity (Wt): 1155lbs (should be able to find this on the tire pressure recommendations sticker located by the driver's door)
• Combined weight of driver & passengers (Wp) = 515lbs (adults, kids, dogs)
• Cargo capacity: Wc = Wt - Wp = 640lbs
• Roof cargo weight limit (Wr) = 120lb (5th Gen SR5)
• Towing capacity (Ct) = 5000lb (gross trailer weight can't exceed this. Assumes base vehicle with necessary equipment and passengers. Additional passengers and cargo will reduce the towing capacity)
  • Reduced by 20% due to altitude going over passes in Colorado = 4000lbs
  • What about reduction due to additional passengers and cargo?
    • Assume "necessary" equipment and passengers are driver and one passenger
    • Reduced towing capacity
      • Additional passengers and cargo = 190 (kids) + 35 (dog) + 200 (split cargo between truck and camper) = 425lbs
        • 5000 - 425 = 4575
        • 4575*.8 = 3660 lbs over high altitude passes --> ADJUSTED TOWING CAPACITY
• Gross vehicle weight: GVWR = 6,300lb (from sticker near driver's door - sum of vehicle, passengers, cargo, and tongue load)
• Gross axle weight: GAWR = 3,000lb front, 3,450lb rear (from sticker near driver's door)
• Tongue load (from my 4Rnr user manual)
  • Trailer cargo should be loaded so the tongue load is 9-11% of the gross trailer weight, not exceeding 500lb
    • Tongue load / Gross trailer weight x 100 = 9-11% and <500lb
  • Must use a sway control device if gross trailer weight is > 2,000lbs
• Max gross combination weight: GCWR = 11,300lb (from 4Rnr user manual - sum of vehicle, passengers, cargo, optional equipment like racks, and weigh of the trailer being towed, including its cargo)
  • Assuming 4Runner and trailer are fully loaded to GVWR: 6300 (4Runner GVWR) + 3790 (trailer GVWR - see below) = 10,090lbs

Camper Trailer

• Unloaded vehicle weight/dry weight: UVW = 2,581lbs
• Hitch weight = 290lbs
• Cargo capacity = 1209lbs
• GVWR = Hitch weight + Cargo capacity = 2,581+1209 = 3790lbs
• Gross trailer weight (sum of trailer and its cargo)
  • Trailer GVWR is 3790lbs
  • Likely trailer weight when loaded: 2581 (dry weight) + 250 (propane, full water, battery) + 407 (gear) = 3238lbs
• Tongue load
  • Trailer load of 3238lbs and tongue load of 11% (worst case): 3238*.11 = 356.18 lbs tongue load

Determining Hitch ball Rise or Drop (note this will be specific for each vehicle/trailer setup):


4Runner

• A = 21.5”
• B = 22"
• B - A = C; 22" - 21.5" = 0.5" rise

 

this might’ve solved every question I got! Thank you

 

Please don't forget a good set of towing mirrors. If the LEO's can't see your mirrors, then you can't see the traffic behind you.
If what you're thinking of buying is wider than 6', mirrors should be one of the top safety accessories on your list of must haves.

 

Make sure you’re within the weight restrictions. Obviously last thing you want is an accident hurting someone.

Also many never mention should you be an accident they will investigate your trailer, weight and vehicle capacities. You don’t meet to be found negligent for not being in compliance and potentially uninsured as a result

 

The most I ever plan to tow is like 3500 GVWR and even that has me questioning if it’s ok

 

I had a 2006 Tacoma Prerunner with the same tranny and engine (V6 4.0) as my new 2024 4Runner. I had a Jayco 154BH Baja at 2,700 lbs dry weight.
With myself and my wife, 2 dogs, one 110lb. GSD and a little 40lb dog I felt like I was killing my Tacoma at times towing. I towed "dry", no fresh water in the tanks and nothing in the black/grey water tanks)
Anti Sway Bars and Brake Controller. Don't forget the weight of a full propane tank or two.
I don't care if it says the towing capacity is 5,000lbs. Coming up 8 from Yuma to San Diego was a bear. Poor tranny was hunting all day long for a gear.
Someday I would like possibly go back to a TT. (I now own a Winnebago Minnie Winnie)