Can't find the fuse for the cigarette lighter in my 2023.

Edit on July 14, 2023 for diode recommendation

Wiring a relay is super easy. You'll have 5 pins on the relay but will only use 4 of them for raptor lights. You wire pin 30 directly to the positive terminal on the battery and make sure that you have an inline fuse to this wire, close to the battery (this will protect against any short circuits damaging your battery and the fuse should be whatever your auxiliary lights recommend). Wire pin 87 directly to the positive lead on your raptor lights (once the relay coil is energized, this will connect directly to pin 30). Ground pin 85 directly to the chassis. Run pin 86 to whatever positive trigger wire or fuse tap location that you want. Diode isolate this to run current from the trigger to the relay (this trigger is what will energize the coil and open the circuit between pin 30 and 87). Make sure that you are running the correct gauge wires for your application. So many people run super thin wires that overheat and melt, which in turn cause short circuits and issues down the road. This is also easily reversible if you need to take it to the dealer for service.

 

If you’re going to start describing pins on the relay, you ought to specify the diode and how it’s hooked up. And wire gauge too.

 

Good point.

Here is an article that explains diodes. It's an easy read for just about anyone. https://www.build-electronic-circuits.com/what-is-a-diode/

Relay diagram to help with pin layout.


For raptor lights, I would use 12 gauge wire to the battery and 14 gauge everywhere else. Wire gauge will really be dependent on the amperage draw and what you're trying to power. the higher the draw, the heavier gauge wiring that you'll want to use. Your ground and trigger wires will typically have low draws because they are only energizing the coil.


If anyone is in Utah and needs help, I'm always more than happy to give a helping hand.

 

@steelevo: I know about diodes. I’ve got a full set of moldering Forest Mims books. I know my way around a 555 timer chip, and the resistance-capacitance relationship. I know the significance of PNP vs NPN junctions. I built my own Heathkit VOM in 9th grade. I’ve plumbed the deepest depths of antique Volkswagen wiring. Deeper perhaps than any man alive!

But even with all those sterling qualifications I still can’t figure out for the life of me why I’d put a diode between pin 87 and the Raptor lights. Can you explain? (Slowly, and with short words please.)

 

Thank you for helping me get my head out of my a**. I corrected the diode instructions and moved it to pin 86 to prevent any unwanted voltage from going back to the trigger wire. The fuse by the battery will protect against any shorts from the raptor light power feed.


I haven't used a 555 timer in a very long time and am still impressed with it today. The day I find a nice and affordable 60's transporter restoration project, I'm going to pick your brain on the wiring.

 

Okay thanks that makes total sense to me. So how would you implement that diode? Would you use an inline fuse holder and use one of these?

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Haha. Right after you find Bigfoot riding a unicorn.

 

Hey, there's compatible fuses all over the place especially for 12v just research this website a little deep.

 

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That is a pretty cool fuse diode! I'm used to soldering a basic diode. Diode amperage will depend on what is being powered and amperage draw.





[/QUOTE]Haha. Right after you find Bigfoot riding a unicorn.[/QUOTE]

I'd have a better chance of seeing Bigfoot selling me one. Lol.

 

"I’ve plumbed the deepest depths of antique Volkswagen wiring. "

The horror, the horror...

 

Ah. Evidently you too have gazed into the abyss.

 

June 2024: so did anyone find the correct fuse(s) for the three “cigarette lighter outlets” in a 2023 4Runner Trd off-road premium? I read where the electrical engineer thought that the fuse he found that said P/outlet went to the rear outlet, but then someone said that there’s only one fuse that in the same circuit for all three outlets, so I wonder if someone has removed the P/outlet fuse and tried to use each of the three outlets. Thanks!

 

I just pulled the p/outlet fuse on my 22 ORP and it did indeed disable all three 12v outlets.

 

Excellent! Thanks for taking one for the team

 

In my 2023 ORP, the "cigarette lighter" is called the Power Outlets. The fuse box lid shows a 7.5 A fuse for P/Outlet NO. 2.

 

I’m fairly certain that relates to the AC outlet in the cargo space and is unrelated to the three cigarette lighter outlets.

 

This is from my 2023 TRD-Off Road Premium fuse cover under the driver side dash.

 

Do you happen to know what the 7.5A "acc" fuse directly below the 15A "P/Outlet" is powering?

 

From my limited ability to decipher the 2010 version of the wiring diagram, the 7.5a ACC fuse feeds into the main body ECU, but may also be related to the stereo and the accessory meter. There may be more.

 

Thanks. I think I'll stay away from that. All I'm looking for is a fuse to tap for a wire for a relay to power a additional 12v plug when the engine is running.

 

Interesting. Where will the additional outlet be mounted and what do you intend to power with it?

 

I've got a molle panel/shelf combo in the cargo compartment and the outlet will be mounted on that and a direct wire ran to the battery (fused at the battery and a relay in the driver footwell). I'll be powering a ecoflow which runs a refrigerator. I've bounced around what I want to do, between the ecoflow charger or an inverter or something and never got around to anything. But I've got a trip coming up and I ned something so this is the quickest/easiest answer. The factory invertor won't charge the ecoflow because its not pure-sine and I've had a couple of incidents where, when using the factory 12v plug beside the inverter it has caused some sort of voltage drop that throws airbag warnings, so I want to get off that circuit.

And since I'm charging the ecoflow and running the fridge off of it I just want the new plug hot when the truck is running so I am using a relay tapped into the floorboard fusebox.

 

So why not use a tap off the P/OUTLET fuse as a signal to the relay?

 

I probably will, but if there was a suitable alternative I was going to stay off that circuit

“acc” seemed promising

 

The current draw to trip the relay is tiny, so no worry there. The P/OUTLET circuit is ideal because there’s nothing down stream in terms of modules.

 

What confuses me is that something that draws such little current as some LED Raptor lights can cause as much of a problem as many have found out the hard way.

 

When I installed my raptor lights I accidentally forgot to add the extra fuse to the add a fuse when installing and when I went to start the ignition I also got a ton of messages/lights saying to take my car to the dealer. I just unplugged and reinstalled it correctly and everything was fine...

 

Can you trigger 1 12v relays off this circuit? I would think you could since the draw is small?

 

Yes.

 

I'm sorry - I meant to ask if you could trigger MORE than one relay off the same circuit" I mis-typed.. As in, running 2 completely different wires to different outlets with separate relays, but wired to this one circuit to trigger

 

Okay not all relays are the same, but the coil of your basic automotive black cube relay will draw anywhere from 50 to 200 milliamps, which is 0.05 to 0.2 amps, so says my friend Mr Goog. If that’s the relay you are using, 2 would work fine.