4runner has power but no crank

Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, I am experiencing issues with my 2016 Limited 4Runner 4x4 and cannot get it to start. I have attached two videos for reference. The first video shows that the vehicle indicates the steering wheel is locked, although it is not. The second video shows that the steering wheel lock warning is off, but the vehicle still fails to start.

I have checked all the fuses, and they are fine. I attempted to jump-start the battery, but it did not work. I also disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes, but this did not resolve the issue. The engine does not crank at all, and there is no check engine light. I manually cranked the engine, but the vehicle still did not start, as if it is in some sort of "limp" or "safe mode."

The vehicle was operating perfectly fine and got me home last night without any issues. I contacted a mechanic friend, who suggested that the problem might be related to the smart key and that it may need reprogramming. There is a pending code (DTC B2781: OPEN / SHORT IN STEERING LOCK ECU ) stored in the ECU that may support his diagnosis however I am not sure if that would solve the issue.

Has anyone who’s had the push to start model experience this issue before? Any insight/help would be appreciated!!

 

Above my pay grade. Hopefully someone who has had this issue will chime in.

 

welcome

 

This looks like immobilizer fault. I would start by a) changing the key battery b) clearing codes c) disconnecting the car battery for 10 minutes to reset all modules.

 

Was there supposed to be some videos? I got nothing.

 

unfortunately it did not allow me to post the videos.

 

Sounds good I’ll change the key battery. I’ve already done the other 2 steps and no luck.

 

Does your immobilizer light stop flashing when you insert your key and or turn on the ignition?

 

I think the light stops flashing when the key is inserted. Before the ignition is turned on.

 

This is true with a regular key...but if you have a "Smart Key" that's not inserted so you have to turn on the ignition before the light will stop flashing.

 

Correct Sir. But OP has a 2016 and was Smart Key available then?

 

According to the owner's manual yes it was.

 

Awesome troubleshooting. All we need is results from the OP.

 

On Limiteds.

 

Wasn't sure how far back they started using Smart Keys. I have never had a Limited.

 

My SIL has a 2010 Lexus RX350 with push button start, so it's probably been a while.

 

Interesting. I used to drive my bosses 2008 Land Cruiser from time to time. It had a regular key.

I have rented 4Runners with push button start. To be honest, I'm glad that mine does not have one. There are things I have read here that I'm glad I don't have to deal with.

But nowadays, I don't think one has a choice.

 

Likewise. I feel fortunate to have gotten my 2019 prior to push button start & Safety Sense.

 

Welcome. Have you tried holding the fob directly over the start button and then pushing the button to start? Even with a dead fob battery, this should work.

 

Hello everyone,

Below is a summary of the steps I have taken so far, unfortunately without success:

- Replaced the vehicle battery with a new one.
- Replaced the smart key battery with a new one.
- Checked every fuse in the fuse box, and all are in good condition.
- Inspected wires and ground lines, and they are all fine.
- Attempted various methods to bypass the dashboard message indicating "steering wheel locked," despite the steering wheel being fully functional and able to turn left and right.
- Tried starting the vehicle in neutral and even pushed it around to prompt the system to recognize that the steering wheel is not locked, but still no results.

Complicating the issue is the absence of a check engine light. The only code I have is B2781, indicating "steering lock ECU open/short."

I consulted my mechanic friend, who suggested that the smart key might need reprogramming. My vehicle has a smart key push-to-start system. When I sit in the vehicle, I press the brake and push the button to start the car. A green light illuminates on the push-to-start button, which typically stays on when the vehicle starts. Currently, the green light flashes, possibly indicating a problem.

 

Sorry to hear nothing you tried worked, a smartkey push-to-start system is such needless complication that makes it harder to keep the car on the road. I have it on few of my cars and convenience is marginal while breakdown hassles are significant.

Do you have a second key? Does it behave the same way? You want to eliminate the key fob as a possible fault.

Try following - open and close the car 10 times rapidly using buttons on the remote. For some cars, this is procedure for re-synching smartkey.

Try following - remove fob battery and go through starting procedure for dead battery (by holding fob next to start button).

Try following - go through remote start procedure with your fob, see if works.

Also, do you know your car's history? Could there be an immobilizer (e.g., LowJack) installed that you don't know about or forgot? At this age such systems usually go bad as internal battery fails. Might be worthwhile to take kick panels off to look for that.

I don't think we eliminated 100% no-start condition. While it is very likely related to remote key, considering that dealership will fleece you on that, you would want to eliminate all other causes.

 

No, once I put in the ignition mode the immobilizer light is still flashing.

 

Thank you for your response,

It does have a second key. I tried using the second smart key however no response from the vehicle.

I tried the key re-sync procedure, no luck. I tried the key fob procedure no luck.

I just noticed that when I turn the vehicle on, all the lights come on the dashboard however the security light for the immobilizer is still flashing. I believe that is the problem, now I’ve got to do some research on how to get the immobilized disabled and get the car started. I wonder if re-programming the key would solve the issue?

 

I have a hard time believing that both keys would loose their programing and need to be reprogrammed.

Unfortunately I'm thinking your immobilizer ECU needs to be replaced or reset/reprogrammed.

 

If it's the B2781 then the steering lock ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced. The power management ECU allows engine to start when it receives a signal from the steering lock ECU that the steering wheel is unlocked.

Trying opening and closing driver door at 1.5 intervals to try "resetting" the steering lock actuator assembly .

 

I called a key programming tech, he’s on his way at the moment. Let’s see if he can reset the immobilizer somehow.

 

I wonder why the steering lock would go bad on a car that is fairly new, let me see if I can find the part easily here in Sacramento, California.

 

For some reason it's still in the "lock" position preventing the management ECU to allow the engine to start. That is the only thing I can think of if you have tried everything else that prevents engine startup that isn't engine related.

 

Yes sir, the key programming tech came and he verified that both of the smart keys are programmed and in working conditions, meaning the next diagnosis would be to check the steering wheel lock ECU code.

 

Battery is jumped you stated? is it old? Maybe needs replaced. try turning on dash features without foot on brake then turn wheel to see if it "unlocks" then see if it starts.