The OFFICIAL manual swap thread

I know both the A340F and A750F auto's in these 4runners are fantastic transmissions. I know auto's are better offroad and for daily driving. Personally, for a "fun" vehicle, I prefer a manual

This is not a 100% step-by-step guide and will require your own part number and compatibility research. You will need your own wiring diagrams and some mechanical ability.

This post only applies to 1GR V6 4runners

There's way more then one way to do most of the tasks I'll cover. At the end of the day it's pretty easy. Definitely time consuming with some custom work required here and there, but overall it's not a difficult job.

Started with a 2004 4runner SR5. 4wd, V6 1GR, 4spd A340 auto, 147k miles.

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My transmission donor
- 2013 FJ cruiser RA61F 6spd with 150k miles. Any RA61F from a 07-14 FJ will work, but the 11+ RA61F technically has a superseded part number despite being the same externally and having the same gear ratios.

Other trans donors you can use
-RA60F from a 05-15 Tacoma. Same a RA61F, expect 6th gear ratio is 0.849 vs the RA61F with 0.799.
-RA62F from a 16+ Tacoma. Would need modifications for the manual tcase described here and possibly other things, but for sure a good option: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-case-in-a-3rd-gen-tacoma.571689/

Clutch
-New Luk flywheel and Aisin clutch kit
-Tilton throw-out bearing conversion. See below -
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tilton-engineering-hydraulic-release-bearing-conversion-kits-adapted-for-2005-6mt-tacomas.807086/
I got the custom parts to aid the Tilton installation from Kasbien over on Tacoma world. Good price and prompt communication from him. Highly recommended
-Speedway motors EPDM -4an dry break (To be able to remove the trans without bleeding the clutch)
-HEL made custom clutch line. Specs for this below in a picture

-Make sure you buy the clutch kit from whatever year/model trans you buy - even though they all bolt to the 1GR, they have different part numbers and I don't know why.

My Tcase #1
-Manual tcase from a 2023 4runner TRDOR with 61k. You can use any tcase from AUTO trans 07-14 FJ's or any tcase from 2010-2024 TRDOR 4runners. They are all the same from what I can tell.
Required Tcase #2
-Any 05-15 Tacoma electronic tcase from a MANUAL. You will need the tcase input housing/shaft to swap onto your FJ/4runner case, as described here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-for-fj-case-for-manual-transmission.714337/
If you get a RA60F from a Tacoma, you can probably find one with the tcase still bolted to it and then you one less part to buy. Because I wanted to run a RA61F I had to source this tcase separate.

Trans mount - If you look up transmission mount part numbers there is a different number for almost every year and trans combo. That being said, I reused the original transmission mount and crossmember from my automatic 4runner bolted in to the RA61F and with zero modifications. Now I had a 2006 Tacoma RA60F trans mount sitting around - visually these mounts were exactly the same, and both of them fit the same despite having different part numbers. Make of that what you will

Exhaust - no modifications needed

Front Driveshaft - Needs to be shortened 2" in my application
Rear Driveshaft - Needs to be lengthened 2.25" in my application
I'm running custom Tom Wood's driveshafts, but I did use a 1.5" Trailgear driveshaft spacer for the rear temporarily to test drive the swap without issue.

The three amigos to make this all work


A340F and it's transfer case next to the RA61F and the manual tcase

Manual tcase input shaft swap to bolt it to a RA6X. This procedure is linked above


End result: part-time 4wd manual FJ/4runner case with the RA6X manual input housing and shaft


Trans bolted in and primary hole cut for both shifters.
The cut inside the vehicle is two "steps" - the upper lower cut is the requirement for the shifters, and the upper cut is so the shifter sub insulation will be able to be bolted flat. I welded weld-on nuts on the body so I could use proper M6 hardware to bolt down the shifter sub base - the tighter that seal is the better its gonna keep out water, noise, and dust. The self tappers I originally did this with couldn't get tight enough to compress the rubber base enough.



The second time around I took the time to clean up the trans harness. I removed all the wires that were no longer used - all this wiring is explained below, but here is a picture of the simplified harness in the meantime.
I cut off the non-used wires above the bellhousing, then coated the tip of each wire with two coats of liquid electrical tape to avoid any moisture issues. After it dried I put shrink tube end caps on each wire. I removed all the old wire loom and installed new smaller diameter loom for the reduced size of the harness.


Now is the best time to extend the trans and tcase breather vents


Clutch setup
Clutch pedal assembly from a 2007 Tacoma
I went ahead and did the metal FJ clutch pedal and metal master cylinder swap into the Tacoma assembly, as instructed here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...al-for-a-metal-one-from-an-fj-cruiser.814720/



Narrow manual trans brake pedal swapped from a manual 2009 FJ, right into original 4runner brake pedal bracket.



Remove the ebrake pedal - that's gotta go. I removed the complete mechanical ebrake including everything behind the rotors and the cables and converted my parking brake to dual line locks. See reply #25 for my write up on the hydro line locks, but before that you'll see me and other members discuss other ebrake options too like using a 3rd gen Tacoma console. Relocate your ABS control unit while you're in there - I mounted it up against the left side behind the body control unit.

Once you get in there you'll see this "hump" of metal riveted to the firewall next to the brake pedal. Drill the rivets off and remove it.



Cut away some of the insulation and your clutch bracket will fit nice and flush on the firewall, You can even use these existing studs/stud locations with minor modifications. The upper stud can be used if you make a custom bracket between the stud and the pedal bracket, which is what I did. The lower stud I popped off and installed a larger diameter/longer bolt through the firewall. The 3rd location by the hydraulic lines will require a new hole to be drilled and a bolt installed the same way.



This is where you clutch lines will go, mark and drill your holes.



Clutch hydraulics
Tacoma clutch reservoir mounted - used one existing threaded hole on the fender rail and then for the second I drilled a new hole and used a bolt/nut - you can access the back from above the fender liner. Ignore the clutch output line in this picture, I have since updated my setup (See below)


The Tilton setup is the way to go 100%. Link in the beginning of the post for how to set this all up, absolutely worth it over OEM or even the URD sleeve.



The Tilton throw-out bearing uses a 4an fitting. Because the slave is now internal, you would have to bleed the clutch after removing the trans. To avoid that pain in the ass I installed a -4an dry break from Speedway Motors.
Not all -4an dry breaks are actually 4an. I ordered an
Aeroflow 4an dry break but it was the same diameter body as a 3an Wilwood dry break. The Speedway Motors one was actually a larger body to avoid a flow restriction. Make sure it has EPDM seals to be brake fluid compatible

For the clutch line, I ordered a custom line from HEL. I highly recommend this route - you can order whatever you need exactly, no adpaper fittings or anything. For routing, I ran it in a unused slot of a OEM brake line clip up the firewall. Specs for the line in the picture.



With the heatshields installed



So you trans, clutch, and tcase are ready.
Time to make a console setup.
I used a 2nd gen Tacoma console. I wanted an console armrest, functional cupholders, and a good aesthetic. Fair warning, I spent more time making this console setup work then anything else in the entire project. Massive cutting is required to fit the front of the Tacoma console against the angled asymmetrical 4runner dash.

Don't forget to cap the HVAC duct that is running to the rear


The space where the old 4wd knob was is 60mm after you grind down the inner lip. They do make 60mm gauges and adapters for 52mm to 60mm gauges, so this would be the perfect spot for one. I opted for a 60mm blank plug


Note: All 3 OEM Tacoma console mounts retrofitted to the 4runner body. Holes for auto shift cable and ebrake cables plated over/sealed. Shifter boot sub insulation from a manual FJ cruiser installed. Yaw sensor control unit (required for functioning ABS) harness extended and the unit relocated. Connector installed from cig lighter wires to custom accessories harness on the Tacoma console (USB ports, streamlight charger, etc)
See reply #16 for my attempt at making a shifter boot setup
Not pictured - Added foam insulation under the console to cut down on noise.

Trans shifter cut, bent slightly to the driver and rewelded
Tcase shifter completely custom made to be skinny enough to clean 5th and 6th gear in 2hi/4hi, and not contact the side of the console when shifting in 4L.








Electronics! Everyone's fav -
Now with wiring diagrams!
I deleted my front axle disconnect (ADD or CAD) as described here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/


I wired the Tcase 4wd indicators directly to the indicators on the cluster. Made a little custom harness then used no-longer-used wires from the old transfer case actuator to the now completely removed 4wd module.


The plugs for the 4wd module which is fully removed. You can see where I used the original 4wd actuator wires as a vessel for the signal lines - jump them directly across to the indicator wires heading to the cluster.





- The vehicle WILL NOT start if it does not think it's in park. You will need to splice some wires together to do that - you can do it either on the side of the trans where the neutral safety switch was, or inside the 4runner right at the DME.
At the neutral safety switch connector on the side of the trans you will need to splice pin #9 (pink) with pin #6 (black/yellow).
As I'll explain below, I did this splice directly at the DME. To do this you would need to splice together ECM connector E4 pin #16 (pink), connector E5 pin #9 (pink) over to connector E4 pin #17 (black/yellow),
This will change between years!! Check your own wiring diagrams. The key is to have to the starting system wires always jumped so the DME thinks it's in park.
- There is another set of "park" wires at the neutral safety switch - pin #1 green/black on my rig. This illuminates the P on the cluster - This does not need to be spliced for the vehicle to start and is simply for the cluster.

- If you want to have a clutch safety switch for starting, wire the factory clutch start safety switch to the splice you made (This is why it's ideal to do the splice at the DME). Have the 2x pink wires splice together, run to the clutch switch, then have the return leg from the switch run to the black/yellow wire. This is not required. You can just have it spliced at all times.



- Splice your manual trans reverse light switch from the power (pin #3 yellow black) to the reverse wire (pin #2 red/yellow). You do this on the side of the trans right by the reverse switch, using the reverse wire and the power wire that originally ran to the A340F neutral safety switch.


- Cruise control can be easily made to work. You may run into different road blocks for the 05+ ECM's, but the 03/04 ECM's are easy. You will need to splice 12v power to pin #10 (green/yellow) on the E7 ECM connector. This circuit is labeled "D" as it lets the ECM know you're in drive. I got the 12v from ECM connector E8 pin #9 (black/orange) which is a 10amp fused power circuit when the key is on "run".
- You can wire it so the "park" circuit wires are jumped and the "D" wires are jumped separately at the same time. Nothing fancy needed - the ECM will see that's in park and drive at the same time, you will continue to have a fault for the park position switch stored, but cruise will activate and the vehicle will start. Regardless I recommend wiring the clutch switch previously mentioned.
- To have depressing the clutch kill cruise control as it should, you can wire the factory clutch cancel switch to the "D" circuit you spliced. This switch is a NC or normally closed switch, and therefore when you depress the clutch it will open the contacts and the ECM will think you shifted out of drive and cancel cruise.


The cruise-cancel and clutch-start switch harnesses I made where they splice into the DME harness.



The cluster
- If you have a 05+ there is a good chance Overland Tailor Tuning can flash out your auto trans DTC's - I emailed them and they actually confirmed they could do this on the 05-09 ECM's. They weren't sure of any side affects, but it would be a good place to start.

- If you have a 03/04 your ECM trans parameters are not reflashable. You will have a CEL for the missing auto trans - faults include 2x trans range sensor circuits, all 4x shift solenoids, and trans fluid temp. You could attempt to simulate these manually - A resistor for the trans temp, 4x relays to simulate the shift solenoids maybe, and possibly some clever switch wiring could simulate the park position switch.
That said, I have no emissions and none of these faults effect drivability. I also wanted to get ride of the VSC lights on from removing the ADD and 4wd control unit.

Note: You could possibly just remove the power supply for CEL illumination going into the cluster.
If you just want the CEL and other permeant warning lights out , pop your cluster apart.


Cover the LED(s) with some JBweld putty. Simple as that.
Also, not pictured, but remove the light transferring plastic over the PRNDL so they wont be receive the amber back lighting everything else does. Won't black them out completely, but it's a lot less noticeable.


Perfect


When you shift into reverse the R will indicate on the PRNDL. The N will indicate the same way when the tcase is shifted in neutral, if you wired that as described earlier.


4hi


4Low



That's the jist of it, go bang some gears

 

epic

 

Fantastic write up , great dedication to detail and doing everything to ensure a professional and user friendly finished product . The Tacoma center console really finishes off the interior nicely .

 

Hey OP , how about some pics of the truck when you get some free time, what other mods do you have planned ? I heard a rumor there could be suspension, wheel and tire and bumper mods in the near future . Post em up !

 

Excellent write up Jakobies1086. You have a very OEM+ look, especially with the Tacoma center console.

In researching doing a manual swap, I can't loose the ebrake as I do enough off-roading that it's a must keep. Though I had not considered a line lock. I haven't eliminated the option but will be doing the manual tcase here this summer.

 

Awesome work!

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Truck is a blast to drive, feels like a 2nd gen Tacoma.

With some firewall and Ebrake bracket modification I think you could keep the Ebrake pedal, just move it closer to the firewall. I opted against that as it seemed like unnecessarily big undertaking in an awkward spot to work.
Another option I heavily considered was using a 3rd gen manual Tacoma console - the 4runner Ebrake cables T-off on top of the trans tunnel and it would be easy to connect it to the handbrake style lever like found on the 3rd gen console. I opted against this because I couldn’t find a cost effective 3rd gen console and I was worried it would be substantially more difficult too graft into the 4runner due to the difference in vehicle age.
An honorable mention is the FJ cruiser manual console, which is wider with provisions for both shifters and has a handbrake lever. The downside to that option is it has no armrest console box, because the FJ seats have armrests on them. You could always take this route and try and fit some FJ seats too.

I ran a line lock to the rear as a parking brake in my old 93 pickup SAS’d crawler, and it was phenomenal. I used a covered single pole switch, a relay, and had it wired to illuminate the parking brake light on the cluster. It’s extremely easy to wire and to plumb, everything is under the hood except the two switch wires running into the cab. It would always hold on extremely steep rock faces so I could get out and spot my line choice, as if I was sitting in the truck with my foot on the brake. I wouldn’t leave it set with the truck off as it will draw on the battery and would release in a low-voltage scenario, but with any manual vehicle I have I always just leave it in 1st with the parking brake off.

In the 4runner I have the same electrical setup ready to go, but I haven’t settled on the line lock simply because it has a 4 channel brake system so you’d need two locks to hold both rear wheels. Also, it’s kinda tight up there plumbing-wise, so it might be tedious to fit two. I might just a settle with one holding the left front wheel as that would be adequate for 95% of situations I use a parking brake (running into a store with the truck running, taking a piss on the side of the highway, moving cars around my driveway, etc) but I wouldn’t trust it off-road nearly enough without two wheels locked, so I’m also considering doing both fronts as that’s easier to plumb then both rears in the engine compartment.

 

You probably have already seen his post: https://www.4runners.com/threads/4th-gen-manual-swap-thread.16676/

It wasn't shown in Diego's post, but in another Reddit Post (https://www.reddit.com/r/4Runner/comments/k7nl8c/finished_the_manual_swap_where_my_4th_gen_guys_at/), but it looks like he figured out a way to mount an ebrake handle by the shifter.



I guess as they say, you are only limited by your imagination (and the size of your bank account).

 

Yeah I’ve seen his swap - that lever sticking way up infront of the console appears to be a hydro Ebrake handle which do not lock on and are for drifting. I’m not knocking it, everything depends on what your standards are and what you want out of the rig - his console has no cup holders, exposed rough cuts, and the poor booting around the shifters is gonna transfer a ton of noise and harmonics into the cabin.

 

Yeah, I should have picked up on that. Not building my 4Runner as a drifter or for rally cross. And I agree on the console. I would prefer a more finished look.

 

Definitely more then one way to get it done thou - if I wan’t so keen on ditching the drum parking brake for a line lock I’d say the 3rd gen console is the way to go. I really think connecting the hand brake in one would be easy work and the remainder of the console swap is similar to the 2nd gen

 

awesome write up. looks super clean

 

Absolutely incredible!

 

Awesome work, btw I have the vertical console surround that came out of a 2WD 4Runner without the 4WD selector switch in my shed if you want it. Just pay for shipping. Also it is painted black. I dyed my interior black because I swapped my seats.

 

Thanks! It never even crossed my mind that they made these in 2wd and you can get that trim without the cutout for the 4wd knob; as a lifetime resident of the north east salt belt I've never even seen a 2wd 4th gen for sale locally or in person! I do appreciate the offer but I'll keep mine - I am planning on installing a gauge in that spot, specifically thinking the Banks iDash along with a 60mm-52mm adapter

So I visited a upholstery shop to tackle the shifter boots, and they told me to pound sand. I decided at the expense of it looking good I would tackle it myself instead.
The transmission shifter boot is a OEM Toyota boot. I cut a slot in the side for the Tcase shifter. The Tcase shifter boot I bought

$8 Gear Shift Boot Cover,Car Gear Shift Knob Gaiter Boot PU Leather Cover Replacement for

here, on Amazon. I can't sew and I couldn't be bothered to try to learn, so I bought a leather hole puncher from Home Depot and stitched with small black zip ties. It looks decent

 

Daaaaaang! Looks stellar! I could only imagine the driving of it!!

 

I drove a manual Saturn for 6 years and a 5-speed Xterra for 11 more. Really enjoyed it most of the time, though stop and go traffic was tedious.

I read this thread and heard Darth Vader in my head. "Impressive. Most impressive!"

 

That's awesome! How's the ergonomics with the shifter and pedal? Pedal throw seem right? The reach to the shifter feel too close or too far?

 

It's remarkably good. I'd say its within 5% identical driving ergonomics to a 2nd gen Tacoma. The clutch throw, level, and its placement with the manual FJ brake pedal is identical. Seat to armrest/shifter placement is perfect for me - its been a while since I drove a 2nd gen 6spd but I recall it being extremely similar. The only significant difference is the 1/2" or so I bent the shifter towards the driver to clear the Tcase means in reverse (and somewhat 1st and 2nd) the shifter is a bit closer to my knee (I'm 6' 2" and I manspread in cars) but its not uncomfortable. Shifter reach and the way my arm sits on the armrest is perfect.

I will say I am planning on adding a proper plastic clutch stop. Currently it maxes out when it hits the floor, which is plenty disengaged and isn't a problem but I am going to install one for a more firm endstop.

I'm currently in the process of installing the line locks as a parking brake and I'll update when I'm done. I'm also going to install a clutch start safety switch - I already started it in gear once cause I'm an idiot, and the whole 4runner/Tundra crank-till-starts when you just bump the key means accidently doing that in gear is super sketchy.

 

The manual transfer case swap and add delete are on my todo list (usual problems with switching in and out of 4x4 with the electronics). I dig the idea of a manual trans, but I don't know that I could justify it. How much do you think you have into it all?

I've always disliked the foot e-brake. My second gen Tacoma had the same. The third gens had a hand brake. Any reason you didn't go that route? Third gen Tacoma console with hand e-brake? Why a line lock?

 

Man I'm glad you're alright, but I laughed something fierce as you were explaining the crank until start function and it being a manual now...Bravo, sir!

 

I don’t have a total cost added up tbh, but it wasn’t cheap. The trans and tcases alone cost me $2k, $1k in driveshafts, couple hundred in console parts, plus another $1k in clutch parts. That doesn’t include the add delete, clutch pedal stuff, etc. as a rough estimate I’d say I’m about $5-6k into the swap.

I ran a line lock before as a parking brake in a rock crawler and I really liked it. I also liked the simplicity of no additional cables, no fancy calipers, no drum assemblies inside the rotors, etc.
I ran the 2nd gen console over the 3rd gen because of cost (saved me about $500) and because I figured it would fit easier/better as the 2nd gen Tacoma platform is a lot closer to the 4th gen 4runner then the 3rd gen Tacoma.

That being said, like I mentioned earlier in the thread I think the 3rd gen Tacoma console swap with the hand Ebrake adapted would be similar in effort and function. If I ever do it again, I’ll be inclined to give that route a try.

 

Haha yeah I love the feature normally, but when the stater is now relentless pulling you forward down the driveway till you can jam the clutch in… yikes
I have the connector and pins from Toyota for the clutch start switch, I’ll update this with the part numbers and everything once I get it all installed.

Also, I’m working at trying to find a solution to get cruise control working. Unfortunately the 04 DME trans is not tunable so I can’t get the auto trans inputs flashed out, and at least some of the faults are prohibiting cruise activating. I’m gonna start trying to narrow down which faults exactly are causing that, and then trying to find a work around.

 

So I got cruise control working which was a HUGE win for me, and a clutch safety start switch - it was actually pretty easy and I have updated my original post with that info

I also finished my line lock parking brake. Despite everyone's concerns, it works absolutely perfect. I went with two line locks under the hood, one for each rear wheel as these 4runners have 4 channel ABS and I didn't wanna splice them together. I would not leave this on overnight as it draws power and I'm not sure how long you could leave it on with the engine off before it kills the battery. I don't care about that at all, when it's off I just leave it in gear and no e-brake like I've been doing with all my manual vehicles for the last 15 years. When it's running you could leave this type of parking brake on all day, and it holds 10x stronger then any cable ebrake so I can safely get out of it running in neutral to spot a line choice, open my garage, grab takeout, whatever.

For wiring I just wired the two units together. I read online somewhere each unit spiking 6amps when activated (not continuous), so I opted for a 15amp fuse on the circuit, and of course a relay for the switch. The switch I used was a DPST covered rocker. Half of the switch poles are hot - to activate the relay. The other two switch poles are completing a ground circuit between the chassis and the parking brake light on the cluster - so when the switch is activated the brake light illuminates on the dash like it would with the factory ebrake.
To activate it I just press the brake normally, flip the cover up and then flip the switch up then release the brake pedal. It holds with the hydraulic force of however hard you were pressing the pedal when you flipped the switch. So Ii you're on a super steep hill sitting there with your foot on the brake not moving and you flip the parking brake switch... you can hop out and the truck won't move a inch. Having two locks gives me some mechanical redundancy too if one were to fail. The way I have it plumbed I did not modify the OEM rear brake lines and could easily disconnect the lines I added, re-bend the OEM line by hand and reinstall directly back into the master, bypassing the line lock on the side of the trail in the event of a unlikely failure where it locked itself on.

 

Damn right incredible!!

 

So going with my initial theme of the A340F and 750 are amazing transmissions - the RA6X's are simply not. I thought with the Clutch Masters internal slave conversion i had avoided the achilleas heal of the RA60 and 61, but this was not the case. I updated the original post with this -

I did not do my research on the clutch masters internal slave issues, before buying, which is on me. While at the time of typing this I have 600 problem free miles on the setup, I have pulled the trans back out to replace bearings and I am going to be swapping (hopefully) to the Tilton setup as described here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ion-kits-adapted-for-2005-6mt-tacomas.807086/

If I am unable to get the Tilton parts, I will be going OEM again with the URD sleeve. I am not interested in having the seal fail on the CM hydro bearing 4300 miles from my house in Alaska.

To elaborate on rebuilding the trans, the salvage yard I bought the trans from clearly stored it upright outside on the bellhousing which cause the output shaft (which is female on the RA6X's) to point upwards and fill with water. The water got into the roller bearing between the mainshaft halves, and rusted the bearing. After a couple hundred miles this caused some serious bearing noise at idle with the clutch engaged, which would go away as I depressed the clutch pedal; just like a faulty input shaft bearing would sound. I dropped $500 on a bearing kit from Transmission parts distributers which was great and had everything I needed, all OEM or equivalent. The rebuild was pretty straight forward, with most of the documentation available online or actually a couple of youtube videos. I did have to build one special tool, and it does require a 60mm socket and a 27mm Allen key, but I won't ramble too much about it here.

 

It's been a few months now. How's it going with the new bearings and tilton parts? Still liking the manual?

 

Hey - I have all the Tilton parts including the "install kit" from Kasbien on Tacomaworld which I linked in the original post. I have not installed the kit yet. It took a while to get everything together then I conveniently suffered a lower back/hip injury. I've been out of work holding down my couch - hopefully in a week or two I'll be back up to speed and feeling ready to wrestle that heavy ass RA61 back in.

When I do I'll post up how everything went, and how I tackled the clutch line with the Tilton setup + pedal stops and whatnot.

 

One newborn baby and some back surgery later, I'm back.

Updated the original post. I made a lot of changes on round #2 of the swap after rebuilding the trans, and wanted the information to reflect that. Converted to the Tilton throw-out setup with a dry break and a custom clutch line. Rewired the electronic line lock parking brake on a relay and DPST switch. Welded nuts to the body for the shifter sub trim. Redid the entire trans harness. Added and wired a cruise cancel switch and a clutch start cancel switch. Added insulation under the console to cut down on noise.

I also added some modified wiring diagrams to the original post, to help visual learners like myself get the idea of the minimal wiring required.

Like any project I'm always tweaking it, but it seems like to be very turnkey at the moment

 

This is rad and CONGRATULATIONS to the upgrades to your family and your back!! I'm excited to see new videos for us visual learners!