2024 fuse box mistake/mystery

Hello, everyone. I recently bought a 2024 4Runner Offroad Premium. I was installing some cool raptor style lights in the top of my grill. I made a very stupid mistake. I was pulling the INJ fuse out. I pulled it out then realized I was insane and pulled a completely different fuse out. I didn't take a picture before hand. I tried looking at the internet but I see different people have different fuses even with the same box! So I made a picture in case anyone can help me figure out where to put this fuse back. I can't tell anything is not working at the moment which makes it more mysterious. Remember, I only pulled out a single fuse at the point I realized the mistake. Thank you for any help. You may see the INJ fuse has a thing in it. That is my lights and they are working, but I don't know where to put the original fuse I pulled out.

Circle colors:
BLUE - Where I think I pulled out the fuse. Fuse lid does not mention any fuse goes in this spot. Just storage for an extra fuse?
YELLOW - Where the internet makes me think I pulled out the fuse. Most pictures have a fuse here.
RED - Some internet photos do not have a fuse here, but I don't know why. I only pulled one fuse though.

Do I need fuses in H-LP RH and H-LP LH or are these vestigial? My lights seem to be working. I tested against my garage wall. Turn on headlights, there are bright lights. Flash high beam, works.

 

Start over and follow the fuse diagram (use correct fuse amp that is listed), replace what is missing and take out what is not shown. Take a pic before adding the lights.

 

To save you the headache down the line of chasing gremlins - those shit quality lights starting to fail while tied into the fuel injection circuit is the reason you’re going to have stalling and stumbling issue later on.

 

If it can help, 2023 4Runner SR5

 

If you have factory LED high beams, there should be just one fuse powering LH and RH high beam circuits: https://www.4runners.com/threads/pulled-fuse-lost-track-of-where-i-pulled-it-from.36757/

H-LP RH (your yellow circle) is where you pulled the fuse from. Done.

I see you got a blue fuse in the fuse tap's bottom slot? That's a 15A? So you upsized the fuel injection circuit fuse from 10A to 15A, then put the 10A fuse to the raptor lights? You have 120W raptor lights?

 

By the cover you're missing the 30A PRB Next to H-LP LH 10A circled in Red Just above the 10A S-Horn.

 

What you need is someone with a 2024 ORP and no mods to send you a photo of their fuses. You've already been told you need to replace the fuse in two different locations.

 

This is the exact reason why I take 2 seconds to take a photo of things before they are removed/pulled!

Just Sayin'

 

Thank you for pointing this out. Huge mistake there. As soon as I read this, I swapped the red and blue so the red is on the bottom slot.

"You have 120W raptor lights?"
I actually don't know what resistor they put in the lights to know how much current it uses but I have to assume it makes sense based on the fact they have you install it into the fuse box the way I did and fuse boxes should output 12 V as far as I know.

 

WTF?!?! If I had know this was another raptor light thread, I would’ve moved on.

Welcome OP.

 

The fuse to the raptor lights should be sized to the raptor lights' wire gauge. That's the purpose of the fuse, so a short in the light doesn't cause the wire to catch on fire. I doubt each raptor light draws more than 10W, so maybe 40W total, and the cheap wiring they include is usually sized accordingly, so downsize to a 5A fuse.

Also heed warnings of potential electrical noise in the lights interfering with your fuel injection. Unfortunately I don't think there's a better switched source in the fuse box. You can isolate the INJ circuit from your lights with a relay. The INJ signal would energize the relay, while power to the lights comes from the battery.

 

The seller just told me each lamp uses 1.2 W and there are 4 lamps. Does that mean I only need like a 0.5A fuse? Also, I am going to heed all of the warnings. For now I am making the very difficult decision to REMOVE the lights. When I do eventually add them back, it will be using this very sensible idea of using a relay switch that you suggested. By the way, do you have a link to any example video or products that will help me successfully switch to using a relay switch? I am very interested in doing this PROPERLY. Thank you all for teaching me why these seemingly innocent lights can be the cause of engine issues.

 

Here is a diagram that may be of help:
https://www.4runners.com/threads/saker’s-ebony-build.25629/#post-343197

 

For my 2024 TRD ORP, there is no fuse in the red circle, the yellow circle controls the DRLs. I tapped into this one for my Raptor lights so they are ON with the DRLs & markers. Off when headlights are on.

 

If you do t have KDSS, just use thst fuse. That’s what I did.

 

You are fooling with the most complex system on your 4Runner without knowing what you are doing.

Does that seem smart?

 

Interesting facts:

• There are some discrepancies between the fuse box and the legend on my unmodified 2022 fuse box. Some of them can be explained by differences in equipment. For example, the missing PRB fuse is used for Power Running Boards, which my 4Runner doesn’t have. Same for the STRG LOCK fuse, which I suppose is for vehicles with actual keys. But the missing S-HORN and H-P LH fuses are more mysterious.
• @MrConcern Your 2024 ORP fuse box appears to be identical to my 2022 ORP.

The yellow lines indicate the discrepancies between the hardware and the legend.

 

Fuses are designed for protecting wiring when it has electric load. Same fuse can also protect device operating with that load.
Piggybacking on existing circuit is dangerous.
You may have unused fuse positions for accssories not installed on your paticular truck.
Look for one of these for your add on and verify it is suitable for your load. Using relays is safest way to protect from drawing too much amps thru the factory power panel fuse.
Get help from experienced auto electrician to minimize risk of an electrical fire or damaged factory systems.

 

OP hasn't posted since March last year, so we interpret it as he died a fiery death from an electrical fire. Probably laughing at us from the heavens for the tariff shitshow.

 

I think you're on to something...

 

Please god, make it stop!