Dealer oil change would be laughable...

When you build that new house, be sure to put one of these in:

 

Look up RCI or CBI Offroad names.

I have got CBI installed. I installed them myself. A lot of work but the oil change is easy. Just remove the access panels for both the filter and oil plug and there u go. I do oil changes myself. Fumoto oil plug makes it even easier. Look up videos on YT.

 

Raise you, will be living in a jiffy lube converted private residence

 

Does that mean you have to overtighten your oil filter housing or strip the skid plate bolts if you change the oil ...?

 

Impact everything

 

& not the smaller Milwaukee but the Lug Stud Snap off one!!!

 

I've seen my local tire shop have the tech walk around with a big ass impact putting tires back on then use a torque wrench.

I made um loosen all my lugs and do everything by hand in the parking lot before I left. If I could change my own tires I'd do that too.

 

He'll also have the urge to do a transmission flush and fuel system cleaning.

 

When he used the TQ wrench did he get any + movement? If so then it was good to go, if not over TQ'd basic install procedure.

 

I was gonna ask this same question. I use my 1/2 impact to install my wheels. Shits a beast and you have to have the feel for it.
I go back through with the torque wrench and as long as I get some movement I know I didn't overtorque them.

 

Nope that shit clicked immediately.

 

My dilemma is that I'm planning a month-long spring road trip that will probably cover 7-8k miles. Dare I let someone else change my oil on the road?

 

I'd change it before and after. I'd imagine most new toyota owners are only doing changes at 10,000 miles when they get the free service from the dealer.

 

TBH I'd just send that shit and change it when I got back. Toyota says the oil is good for 10K so you're probably good for 7-8 without much worry.

 

When was your last oil change?

 

Stop by a Walmart during the trip, pick up oil, filter, and cheap drain pan. Change it in the parking lot.

People do rear diff swaps in the parking lot and change out rod bearings on the side of the road. I'm sure you can manage an oil change.

 

I'm trying to time it to right before I leave.

 

lol that’s hardcore

 

Then he needed to back the nuts off & re-TQ!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hl3bxwfPOU

 

I have both TQ 3/8's impact's Milwaukee's M18 cause I bought too impulsive. The less TQ is good for lower Tq items BUT not for breaking lug nuts so I have both & use accordingly Wife still doesn't understand having "Too Many Tools" UNTIL she needs something serviced/repaired/fixed" And she really has NO CLUE!!

 

Roasting pan for a couple bucks works well as a disposable drain pan.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstay...=125507798&athposb=0&athena=true&athbdg=L1600

 

I think it means he just has to *say* he changed the oil.

 

Yeah I bought a 5 Pack but I'm too cheap so I clean them out and reuse em lol

 

OK, so I'm looking for a house and a garage just became a must have. My gf tells me something is hanging under the front of my 4runner. It was the skid plate access panel, one bolt (loose) the other bolt dropped in from the top (so the "tech" wouldn't lose it). made it 6 days and probably 300 miles. Luckily I have some of my tools in my office (no room in my apartment) so it is fixed now).

 

Hi everyone - I've scanned the oil change threads and maybe I missed it but I am unclear on the process/steps to remove then reinstall the oil filter housing and the metal plug on the bottom of the housing.

Is this right?

Removing: first remove the metal plug from housing. Then remove housing from truck.

Reinstalling: definitely unclear here, is it just reverse order (attach housing to truck, then attach plug to housing)? The reason I am unsure on this step is I didn't know if putting on the plug after the housing is attached and tightened would also (incorrectly) overtighten the housing.

Any tips most appreciated and I apologize if this has already been covered. Thanks.

 

Housing goes on, then metal plug goes on I believe. I also believe the metal one is torqued to a lower number than the housing itself.

 

1. Remove metal drain plug from housing. Insert plastic drain spigot included with oil filter to drain housing.
2. Remove spigot. Install metal drain plug with new small O-ring. Tighten metal plug.
3. Remove housing, replace filter, replace big O-ring on housing.
4. Install housing and tighten.

You can skip steps 1 and 2. Faster but potentially more oil spillage.

 

Car care nut on YouTube indicates to not even worrry about the drain plug.. just unscrew the canister and treat it like a single unit

 

I might try that. Shit's messy regardless lol. I do miss the old single piece filters.

Although I do have an aluminum housing I'll be upgrading to next oil change. Cheap stamped steel filter wrench cracked my old filter housing's ears off.

 

I hate that forceful insertion and the immediate out pour of oil. I was like what is the f-ing point of this anyways?