Are there additional Firewall wiring pass-thru locations?

Hey ya'll,

Anyone know of other locations to pass rated wiring thru firewall, OTHER than driver side engine compartment grommet up behind battery?
(it's the boot at firewall where main harness & hood release run)
I have already modified the rubber to accept a wack of 12v wires for aftermarket switches, and fusebox feeds. I have 3 more rocker switches I'm adding to the madness for a total of 7.
*Not investing in an aux beam.

 

There should be access on the passenger side as well.

 

You tube will show ya how to do the passenger side. Go to about the 2:20 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94yyWXuUDC4

 

Great men, you are. Perfect video too
Thank-you gents!

Anybody know the least painful way to get my wires from that passenger cabin kickplate, over to under the driver side steering wheel (and cabin fusebox)?

 

So far I did had to use anything other than this location. This is a screenshot from one of my TRD ORP, same story with my TRD Pro. I have quite a bit of wires going through there like full-time 12v power for dash cam, front camera wire, auxiliary lights, raptor lights trigger wire, etc.. I open the plug as needed and still keep it tight so water doesn't come in. can take a pic from TRD Pro as well if needed.

 

@kmeeg
Thanks!
So you mean all your wires go through the drivers side boot grommet? That's what mine already do

 

@Captain Spalding
@Thacrow
@Saker

also, what's your feelings on my engine compartment Ground location? Don't see much about people ground source locations. (I don't run brite box or a relay box or blue bird or whatever. Just individual wiring harness kits with fuse, relay, switch)
THANKS

 

That's just the stock ground right? You can ground anywhere you want so long as you're getting bare metal contact; if you used a random threaded hole you would want to grind the paint off. I've read the best ground is to the battery and this is worth doing for maybe your amp for cleanest power/least distortion but other than that I don't think it matters much which is why people don't post on it. If you need to ground in the cabin you can just find bare metal.

Least painful way to run wires from passenger feet to driver feet.....no, probably need to start removing plastics to run wire back there out of sight. I had most of the dash off when installing the remote start and it wasn't that bad. Tons of easy to follow videos.

 

No sir, not that. Let me take some pictures when the sun is out.

 

I ran 0.041 SS Safety wire from cabin side to eng bay. Taped wires to it, then folded the safety wire back (for better pulling) & taped down to a "bullet". Just grabbed the safety wire W/pliers & pulled it through. I did put some DC 4 on the tape to allow it to slide through the grommet better.

 

That photo tis stock ground, yes sir.
The best ground can be the battery eh, I was worried and thought I read the battery can be a dangerous spot to terminate your grounds. But heck Google is full of contradictory information, so I trust you guys and asked you gentlemen. As for crossing from passenger to driver, I'll do as you recommended, watch vids, get er done.

I recently purchased these battery terminal termination blocks. Perhaps I can tap into the negative terminal this way with my additional ground wires..

 

Is that right, smart I like that. Thanks
I have filled my driver's side firewall boot/grommet pathway, so now I'm expanding to the passenger side boot/grommet to give cabin access to at least 3 more wires. Unless @kmeeg has additional driver side firewall access hole information he's alluded to

 

you dont really need to go to battery ground unless maybe if you're doing high end audio and even then you might not notice the difference. I almost didn't mention this since you really dont need to at all.

Those terminals with built in volt meter - is that always on? If yes, it's under the hood and you cant really see it and it's just draining your battery, albeit it very slowly.

Edit: I've been thinking about terminals like that myself perhaps if i had to add more large positive wires, like an amp, larger inverter for the cab etc.

Turns out I did do the battery to a distribution next to my relay box. Did not have to be that way at all. I think I thought it was more convenient and cleaner to do that with all the grounds I had for everything. If in this picture the distribution block looks like a cluster fuck of wires.

 

The problem with that type of terminal is you need to run inline fuses right off of the battery and those can become cumbersome. I would maybe consider adding something like this:

$32 Blue Sea Systems 2151 Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002INJXO6

Also, is that a solenoid switch for your winch? I just installed one of those and you can fit it next to the battery on the driver-side engine compartment. You can see it here, my second post, fourth picture down: https://www.4runners.com/threads/5th-gen-build-a-baja-resilient-daily-driver.36058/

 

Thanks buddy, helps a lot.

Ya see that's where I'm at, is distribution.
I've loaded up the factory ground screw with round terminal connectors, same goes for positive wires on the pos terminal nut.
The distribution block photo with LED Voltmeter I posted is the only one I could find, so far, that sits on battery terminal and accepts as small as 10awg. I have no use for the large diameter terminals, no. I like the LED display, yes gotta open the hood to even see it. Plan would be to have the voltmeter pwr supply wires on insulated quick connects, or install a vehicle hood plunger switch!

If you guys can help with links, I honestly just wanted a distribution block for pos and a block for ground, so I don't keep stacking wires under the factory nut(s).

I may return the thing, we'll see, cuz I have 3-4 x 18awg wires seeing a home on positive and ground - I just used an online combined gauge calculator and I'm only at 13awg (terminal is 10awg). I could install a crimp connector that accepts 13awg in it's wire size range, but has a connector tip that's 10+awg (assuming I can find a safe connector meeting those parameters)

 

You need these:

$26 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Circuit with Ground and Cover

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ

$13 Blue Sea Systems 2508 30A - 8 Circuit Terminal Block

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2IK3M

and the appropriate fuse installed right on your terminal on the battery. Land all of your grounds on the terminal block to clean up your battery.

 

Hey Cory
So yes you're right, but I've bought wiring harnesses that all include a water resistant inline fuse box, then a relay, then an illuminated rocker switch. So I have "a few" fuses dressed safely behind battery. see photo
But my man, thank you so much for the link!!
This is what I'm talking about, now I'm finding some slick distribution blocks

*No I have no winch, yet. sadly

 

Sorry, that part was meant for the other post from thacrow.

I had a couple of things wired with inline fuses and relays until I just reworked my electrical under my hood and I removed pretty much all my inline fuses and I'm really happy with how it turned out, although you need a switch system. I bought the cheap mictuning one for now. I'll run it till I have problems with it and upgrade to a sPod system.

 

Here's where my wires pass-thru firewall..

 

Sick dude, I'll probably progress to that point as well like y'all.
Hah, I just bought MICTUNING rocker switches, I like em

 

As long as the wire is think enough you could always splice many wires into a single ground. If you're not running a lot of watts on anything just do that. Two wires into a heat shrink connector into one wire.

Do that multiple times down to one wire which is ground.

And for stuff in your cab run a wire to a pice of metal anywhere, sand is down first. So you're not running ground back under the hood.

 

Nice thanks buddy
So my ground wires are already located on the harness in the engine compartment so I'm thinking going the route of bolting a distribution block where I have the factory ground Bolt on metal

 

Well I'll be, would you look at that

 

My goodness, if anyone is a poster child for a switch, it’s @djwantke !

More “power” to you brother, you’re earning it the honest way for sure!

For me, I’d cheat https://store.switchpros.com/sp9100-switch-panel-power-system/

 

HAH!

THANKS MY MAN

Switch pros are slick yes sir, could b a future purchase.

 

I just had my underside dash open to run wires from driver side to passenger side. It is very easy. Pop off 2 panels on both sides and you can almost reach your hand through.

Pry the panels off from the seat side of the panels and then they pull rearward out of the front/under dash side (red arrows).

 

@coryanderson you just made my day, great photos. I can't wait to add these. Got HEAPS of space. Thanks

 

@Thacrow
@coryanderson
@nova
@Saker

Few more days of research allowed me to find a superior solution for not much more $
-Amzn Can. doesn't have the Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit fuse block. I've ordered a competitor. I'll relocate all my pos/ground leads to this one block and mount it.
-changed flush mount MICTUNING double rocker switch, to surface mount bracket MICTUNING triple rocker switch w/ voltmeter and usb3.0. Avoids me chopping a hole in my dash.

 

Have you considered the S-tech switch system or even the team tech OEM housing (https://teamtechoffroad.com/product...ushbutton-housing?_pos=4&_sid=11c8b6481&_ss=r)? Very OEM look

 

Hey lets take a little step back about that blue sea fuse block. What are you powering and how is it being switched? If the device takes more amps than your switch can take then you need a relay. So figure out the amps of the stuff you're powering and the load your switches can take. if you don't need relays then great you can use a fuse block like that.

Changing gears, the other thing you can do regarding switches. I think this looks pretty clean but i dont know where you get one
https://trail4runner.com/2022/03/08/6-gang-rocker-switch-install-5th-gen-4runner/

I think if i need more switches, one I might order customer 2 button switches. You get 2 buttons in each slot in the stock button slots, but also just use a panel like this (but for a 4runner) and keep using the stock style switches so they look uniform and to keep them off to the left with the other switches for a clean look.
https://caliraisedled.com/products/...itch-panel?variant=6567932854311&currency=USD

2 button switch on the right. I Think I would cut right next to the winch switch and put a panel there for more stock style switches.