Upgrading JBL system?? Has anyone done it?

How hard is it to upgrade the factory JBL system in the Limited and TRD Pro 4Runners? While there is a TON of information on upgrading the "NON" JBL systems, I haven't found much information on upgrading these in the Limited and TRD Pro vehicles.

Who has done it, and how did it turn out? What harnesses do we need to use for the the speakers? Has anyone successfully upgraded the factory JBL subwoofer?

Thanks in advance!

 

Think there’s a PAC AMPro that enables you to keep the factory radio on a JBL system.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-H8XxqK1vx5V/p_541AP4TY12/PAC-AmpPRO-AP4-TY12-Aftermarket-Amplifier-Interface.html

If you are pulling the radio it’s a simple yank and replace everything.

 

I don’t want to pull the radio. I want to keep that but increase the sound quality of the speakers and sub.

 

Did you make any upgrades? I am brainstorming options for my ‘21 Pro.

 

Not yet. I’m still deployed but should be Home this summer. Hopefully I can start then.

 

Will this work with the 2020+ JBL system? I know they mad a lot of changes, and this is not cheap, so...

 

Look into OEM audio plus, they have a JBL enhancement kit compatible with the JBL system and original head unit.

 

I don’t have first hand experience with the AmpPRO or the JBL system.

 

Well, I’m thinking of just using the wires that plug into the subwoofer with an LC2i to add an additional sub amp, and replace the stock subwoofer with a JL Audio 8W3. Keeps everything looking stock, but adds MUCH more low end boost.

Does anyone see any problems or issues with this approach?

 

Also, I am going to have to start with the dash speakers. So I really need to figure out which wires go to what... I really cant believe that there is ZERO aftermarket support for the JBL systems in our vehicles. down to the smallest speaker wire harnesses... Its crazy!

 

Oem sources, will cut volume/db/low end at will, especially at volume(reason most change or process them out), so, you could put Focal Utopia drivers in there, but still only have so much bandwidth. They do it so you dont blow the oem turds.
Finding pos and neg, wont be hard, as they are on the driver, and youll most likely get a harness, both for the oem source and drivers you select. Ill give Crutchfield that. Basically plug and play. A maestro unit maybe needed, but I'm not sure. I changed my head unit and used a maestro, swaped drivers, added dampening, amplification, and processing anyway, because i want all the control, new drivers in stock locations, and added subs.
Sticking with the oem source will have its own battles, but, there a really great units to battle that. (Dsp's) Then you can see a full 20-20k band, and tweek accordingly. But its more $ and way more work.
If your just adding subs, be selective on the line output converter, as 99.99% only add noise/distortion, and make sure you tap into a channel with the right output/band width. (The dash channels lets say, wont give you that, because of mention above)
Cheers and good luck. Its all been done already, even on the new models, but finding helpful/good/truthful info may take some searching and time.
(I am a huge, huge music/audio fan, and its a must for me, and in my vehicle, so i get it)

 

Thanks for that response. I am keeping my factory head unit. The speakers should be a plug and play upgrade… so I hope that’s fine.

My only real concern is the JL 8W3 sub woofer I’ll be putting in the OEM box. I plan on just tapping the lines that go into the sub at the box, using an LC2i or equivalent, and a suitable mono block amplifier… I really hope it works out without any major issues.

 

Yep, so just a subwoofer.

So, more or less the low end. Got ya. I dont know the jbl "upgrade" signal bandwidth from the oem source. But AudioControl makes decent gear, and it may even help restore lost frequencies from the oem source if there is any. How thar driver behaves in the oem enclosure, i dont know. Good luck either way mate.
What amplifier are you going to use? Just oem? Or ?

 

Not sure, seems like the JBL sub might be DVC with two sets of wires going to it. If that’s the case I’d skip any kind of LOC and go with an amplifier that accepts high level inputs in the voltage range that you need.

 

I am looking at using this mono amp from AudioControl: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACM1300/AudioControl-ACM-1-300.html

 

I’m not sure that 300W @2 ohms is much different than what the OEM sub amp supplies.

 

min pretty sure the OEM sub amp isn’t putting out much more than 20 actual watts. Lol

 

The page at JBL lists the system at 550W. 20W isn’t plausible.

 

That would be a maximum possible rating, which isn’t probable. Considering the front doors and dash speakers are on the same channel, and the rear doors and lift gate speakers are on the same channel, And given the output of the current subwoofer is pretty minimal… I would speculate that the specs of the 525W system is completely overrated/inflated.

 

OEM JBL sub is DVC.

 

OEM Plus seems to have the edge on simplicity and quality after install.
I may bite the bullet and doe their JBL upgrade .Maybe. Its not cheap.
Other than that, unless you can figure actual output of OEM head Unit and Amp, its going to be hard to add to the OEM head unit..

 

Just finished replacing the JBL Amplifier and JBL speakers in my 21 Nightshade. Kept the OEM head unit. There is some misinformation about the JBL Speaker wiring. This is a 10 channel 550 watt system (2 ohm) with each speaker having individual speaker channels at the amp. They are NOT wired in series or parallel as with the NON JBL systems. This makes the upgrade pretty nice. I installed a Rockford Fosgate DSR1. This is an 8-channel output DSP. The HRN-AR-T01 harness connects directly to the OEM connections. Mounted this where the old JBL amp was located. Replaced all the speakers with the TrailGrid Kicker KS series package, replaced the 8 in subwoofer with the Pioneer TS-A2000LD2. Amps are JL Audio XD600/6v2 (six channel) 1&2 Tweeter, 3&4 front door Mid-bass 6x9, and channel 5&6 run the rear doors and tailgate (These are wired in parallel). The XD600 is a 75 watt per channel at 4ohm amp. You have to dial down the gain on channels 1-4 to 14.1 volts (not 17.4) to give these front speakers only 50 watts rms each. This is the max watts each tweeter and Mid-bass can handle. Back speakers wired in parallel are showing the amp a 2-ohm load. Amp puts out 100 watts rms at 2 ohms so these speakers get the same 50 watts each. Sub amp is the JL Audio RD500 this amp provides 250 watts at 4 ohms. The Pioneer sub is a DVC 2-ohm speaker. If wired in parallel this shows the amp a 4-ohm load. Amps are installed under the rear seat. Also did complete sound proofing with Killmat 80 mil in all doors, tailgate and rear fender wells and Fast Rings around the speakers. This really improved the mid bass and made a huge improvement in road noise. I originally did this project thinking the OEM audio system at $2,999 was too expensive. I spent $2,582 on my upgrade and did all the work myself. I think I have a better system because I can tune this using the DSR1 to my taste while the OEM audio system does not allow you to change the tune. If you just want to do speakers keep the system at 2 ohm and use the Taco Tune speakers. Using the Trail Grid 4-ohm KS Kicker speakers alone messes up the JBL amp and did not sound good (thus the complete gut job). The OEM audio system is priced right for a complete plug and play replacement. I learned a lot researching and doing this project. Thanks to Dean and Fernando.

 

Does the JBL trim 4Runners come with door sound deadening from factory? And generally, do
You guys think the 4runner need extra sound proofing or it’s pretty solid and quiet already? My installer didn’t recommend plastering sound proof to my 2023 TRD during speaker install, they say it won’t make too much of a difference. I also agree, no rattle and car is quiet already. I only listen at volume 26-35 most, nowhere near Max

 

4runner doors are tin cans, just like every other Japanese car. If you are removing the door pads to swap speakers , it makes no sense not to paste a few sound deadening sheets on there.
Just the change in sound when the door closes makes it worth it. But you get added advantage of reduced vibration and maybe some sound deadening. It's the vibrations that go away more than anything.

 

I don’t think Toyota sheet metals are tin cans, I had Ford F150 12th gen (just before aluminum), those are real tin cans. Subaru total tin cans. But honestly Toyotas are pretty sturdy. Check out those crash test and images of stuff hitting the cars/hood etc. compared to G Wagon, probably no, but Toyotas are pretty strong

 

Thats okay. I find them to be of thin sheet material but I knew that before getting one.
My reply to your post was limited to your query, if adding sound deadening helps, to which I said it helps.

 

Not trying to argue, hope my tone didn’t come across that way. Appreciate your prompt comment always

 

Sound deadening really helped my 21 Nightshade. Gave me more mid-bass and really improved the sound system. By itself it is probably the single best, and least expensive, thing you can do to improve radio sound quality. I spent $141 to do everything (Killmat 80 mil). Just turn the radio off when you are going down the road and listen to all the road noise. I did all doors, rear fender wells and tailgate. It is easy to do when you already have the panels off. Paying someone to do it will cost a ton. Do it in steps door by door.

 

How did you access the fender wells? I have done my doors and tail gate.

 

Watch the videos online where they replace the 8in sub speaker. The only thing I ran into was where the panel connects to the rear seat. It is bolted through the panel and you can get it out without cutting the plastic at the point. The video shows them just pulling it out. On my 21 it is not that way. No worries just cut the plastic (I used a drywall saw). You can't see the cut when you put it back. Come at it from the passenger door to make the cut. Also when you take out the fender well panels you have to remove the cargo area carpet. So Killmat that entire floor area. Its flat and fast.