OEM JBL speaker impedance

I have been scouring this forum and the internet trying to find out some information on the JBL speakers in my 2015 jitney. I am trying to figure out how it's wired (series, parallel) and am getting conflicting information. I assume all the speakers are 2-ohm but don't want to buy any until I can confirm this assumption. My brain is stripping gears and putting out lots of smoke. Can anyone help me please?

 

Have you looked at Crutchfield?

 

~2-ohm.. It's going to be hard to find a decent 2-ohm speaker. Any any stereo system is only as good as its weakest component, and there is a lot to be desired in the 4Runner audio departement.

 

That was the first place I looked. Not enough information on 4Runner, just on speakers and specs.

 

I replaced the radio with a Rhino Radios TS10 Android. Very decent volume, but the factory speakers aren't up for it.

 

It seemed like they talked about how the fronts were wired and the PITA it would be to swap the sub.

 

There is still the factory amp. Just find an efficient high db speaker.

 

I would still need to know what the speaker impedances are so I can match them up. I have read, the front it wired parallel, and the back is series which would make matching ohmages important, but I can't confirm any of this. Is the standard wired differently from the JBL... This is what I am trying to figure out.

 

If I had JBL installed in my vehicle I would take them out and throw them in the trash ASAP!

 

This is precisely what I did. All the JBL speakers discarded, used outputs from the JBL amp to a JL Audio Fix 82 DSP and signals from there to proper amps and speakers......this worked very well for me.

 

I wouldn’t use the stock radio either. Prob get a 90’s CD, Cassette, like Alpine or something. I had a Denon imported from Japan tuned for US stations. It’s nice.

 

When i tried to just add an amp and speakers i had some major issues with this, took my stereo install shop a bunch of time to figure it out. I ended up ripping out the entire OEM system.

Confirming parallel or series should be as easy as disconnecting a speaker to see if the others keep playing audio. If audio stops then the speakers are in series, if not its parallel.
Maybe can you nix the hatch speakers and tweeters up front and just do door speakers with regular coaxials? That would give you 4ohms for the 4 door speakers.

 

2 ohms

 

If they're all 2 ohm, then the front and the back are both wired in series?

 

I tried a simple diagnostic, and now the confusion deepens. I included a video at the bottom I just took 30 minutes ago. I assumed if the front was wired parallel, the low volume 4 ohm Pioneer speaker should have increased in volume when the door sub was disconnected. It didn't change and it didnt cut off, so I know it isnt wired in series. I am in a state of total confusion. I don't have a JBL wiring diagram (and its not from lack of trying), or a multimeter to test impedence either. Any opinions?

https://youtu.be/QuVlzUCv0Uc?si=lIt9k_ymjLEcBc00

 

If you just swapping out speakers and running them through a non JBL OEM head unit get any speakers that are 4 ohms and have a sensitivity of 92db or more. 3.5 inch for the dash, 6x9 front door and 6.5 inch rear door and hatch.

 

Here is the problem with that. My whole issue with impedance was I swapped out one blown tweeter in the front, the Pioneer, and left the other one factory. You can't hear the pioneer at all hardly, and it is 4 ohm. You can hear it in the video because I directed all sound to that corner and turned the volume way up. The other factory speakers have normal volume, and the one oddball is almost a mute. If I replace them all with 4 ohm, none of the speakers would have any real volume to speak of. Now you see my dilemma.

 

So I swapped my rear door speakers to Infinity but kept the OEM speakers in the hatch. They sounded muted and hollow, but the day I swapped the hatch speakers with the same set, my quality increased, volume increased and mid range really opened up.
The take is, either swap out all speakers or none, OEM does not mix well with after market. The tweeter you changed might have a different capacitor rating, swap out both and then see, better still get 3.5 inch full range speakers rather than just tweeters.

 

When you disconnect the speaker, you are increasing the resistance of the rest of the circuit. The remaining speaker isn’t going to get louder.

Even if it did get louder, doubling the wattage to a speaker is good for only a 2bB increase in volume. To get the volume to double, you need 8x the wattage.

 

Mixing and matching is a great way to have all sorts of issues.

It’s almost as if the people that design speakers for a living intend for their stuff to work well with the stuff they also design.

 

I appreciate all of the advice, and i intend to go will all the same brand of speaker, all with the same 3-ohm rating, but does anyone have an accurate wiring diagram? I can't find one online and it would certainly help.

 

Where did you get 3 ohms from? I believe the speakers are all either 2 or 4 ohms.

 

The speakers I'm buying from Audio Control are all 3-ohm. I am trying to figure out what the factory JBL ohmage is, 2 or 4. I don't have a multimeter. They can't all be the same if some are wired in series, and some are wired in parallel. That is my conundrum. I can't find a solid answer.

 

Multimeter won't give you the same reading as how they are marked. Did Audio Control say 3ohm?

 

No. Audio Control said that THEIR speakers were 3 ohm. I can't get a solid answer on the ohm of the factory JBL speakers.

 

Everything is supposed to be 4ohm: https://trail4runner.com/2020/04/28/crutchfield-speaker-upgrade-5th-gen-4runner/

If you replace every 4ohm speaker with a 3ohm one, be sure the total resistance of the system doesn’t fall below the minimum safe limit for the head unit, unless you want it to announce that a new pope has been chosen.

 

I have seen that article, however it doesn't specify if he had the standard set or the JBLs.

 

If the head unit is the same, the minimum acceptable impedance will be the same regardless.

 

They are all 4ohms.
Every OEM head unit has it pasted on its body that it takes 4ohm speakers. There is no ambiguity there.

 

Just go get an oem speaker, put it back in and leave it alone.