Greasing the Slip Yokes and other thingy

I've watched several videos. I've searched the forums. I haven't seen an answer to my stupid question: do I have to remove the armor in order to get to all the places I need to grease?

Thank you for your time. I don't want to order two grease guns (I know, you can use just the one if you want) if I'm going to end up paying someone to do it.

 

You do not

 

Grease them every 15k miles & ur good

 

You can use any NLGI#2 grease for everything and you do not have to remove armor.

 

If you mean the factory skid plates, they don’t need to come off. If you mean proper armor that covers the transmission and the transfer case, it seems to me that none of them have access holes for greasing.

 

This is awesome, thank you for posting here. Just got my grease gun, and I’ll go grab this grease.

 

Just did my annual lube, rear front u-joint at transfer case is a PITA and it’s messy. Otherwise it’s easy. No disassembly required.

 

Get one of these to make the job so much easier, LockNLube grease gun coupler

 

No but you may have to rotate the driveshaft to get to fittings. In 2wd the front turns fine to access. The rear you might have move the truck or lift the rear end to get to the fittings. I use Lucas's Red & Tacky on both the u-joints and yoke. Don't over grease the slip yokes no need to pack them full.

 

any recommendation for the grease gun/needed hoses?

 

Interesting that the zero fittings on the U-joints are on the "inside", rather than on the "outside" ends like they are on the Tacoma(2006 TRD here). No wonder I couldn't find them. Thanks for that.

 

I use a HD pistol grip hand held with a flexible hose. The flex hose allows for better access but can be hard to disconnect from the fitting. The straight metal pipe one is easier to disconnect though. The shown adapter looks good. Best of both worlds.

 

Ya, I think I am going to order the adapter, what just debating on getting a new gun at the same time.

 

I have the standard larger grease gun with a flexible hose, and it always seems to make more of a mess than seems reasonable. Any suggestions or links for a smaller grease gun you've used that works well?

 

Someone else recommended

$75 Macnaught Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 10 Yr Warranty, Bulk fillable or 14oz. Cartridge. 1/8 NPT Flex Connection x 12″ Long, KY Supergrip Three-jaw high-Pressure Coupler. No Leak Connection

this gun to me (together with the lock’s lube connector) in another thread.

 

Thanks. I already picked up the lock-n-lube gadget.

 

I was thinking about just ordering (https://locknlube.com/collections/g...istol-grip-grease-gun?variant=31849406955604#), I think it comes with the Lube n Lock end.

 

That's precisely what I shared in the other thread that I was planning to purchase when whoever it was said the MacNaught was a much better gun for basically the same price. /shrug I am not a farmer/diesel mechanic etc. but if someone says one is better than another, I'll just go that route. Here's the other thread/post.

 

I think a 20 inch hose is better than the 12 inches (At least that's what she said). But the MacNaught has a higher psi rating than the one I posted, however for 10 bucks more the professional version from lock n lube has the same 10k psi rating. I wish I wasn't so clueless with this stuff, but then I might spend way too much for unneeded stuff.

 

My problem is I research stuff too much and probably have ocd…I invested in getting the specific grease types

 

Yep ditto here to.

 

Same.

 

Ordered this one in 2020.. easy one hand operation, locks onto zerks. I use Lukas red sticky grease in all 6 points…

 

No trouble reaching all the zerks with that?

 

Reaches all 6 zerks, much easier to use then a full size grease gun… one hand operation

 

This thing is fantastic! I had one on order and got nowhere with my old tip after starting before it came. This coupler is a lifesaver.

 

I just bought a lock n lube a few weeks ago. Have you guys been having trouble getting at the spider zerk? I eventually got to fit in there, but it was a bit of a puzzle, and it felt like I really had to force it to fit once I found the best angle.

 

It's super tight but it fits. I had problem also without the lock n lube also. Made a mess not getting good connection which locknlube fixed.

Consider the caps to keep dirt out of zirks.

 

If you happen to have cat shields, and depending on the brand & type, those probably have to come off to do the front of the drive shaft at the transfer case end I would imagine. I'm going to have to crawl under there and check that out...

 

I have the RCI cat guards and have to remove rear 2 skids to grease zirks.