Old Man RSG Slider review / install

Well I succumbed to pressure from my petite wife and elderly parents request for “running boards” on my 4runner. It is a 2020 Off-road, mostly stock with 255/75 tires. (Just over 32”)

So of course I told my wife that RSG flat sliders were “steps”, sturdy enough for my large frame. I ordered the Flat sliders with kick-out and grip top. Process with RSG was flawless and quick. I had them at my door exactly a week after ordering. (I am in Florida). They were well packaged and powder coat looked great. Packaged sliders were 60lbs each. I am nearing Medicare age and over 250 lbs. I was able to install these solo, in my hot garage in about two hours, much of it cleaning the mud from my frame & threaded holes. I used two jack stands, couple of rags, a 12mm & 13 mm socket, rubber mallet and torque wrench. Install was uneventful. Fit was perfect. I did use rubber mallet once to center all holes when I had two bolts in. The couple times I whacked the slider with the torque wrench did not break the powder coat. All in all, very happy with the choice and the install ease. I am tall enough not to use the sliders getting in and out of the truck, and thankfully it is no problem stepping around them. Access to the roof is easier and my wife is a happy with the “Steps”.

 

I really like mine. Watch the potential for rust is my only advice. Likely not a problem I'm FL unless driving on beach.

 

Nice and thank you for the update. One week after you order that is quick. These are the ones I’m getting also for my new 4runner. Which metal did you choose? I know they are powder coated but you have 2 different metals to choose.

 

Good job. I have the same sliders, without the kickout. They give considerably more ground clearance compared to the Predator steps my 4R came with. My wife is happier too.

Another benefit - you won't get any door dings now, at least not from most cars parking next to you.

 

I went DOM for extra strength but probably overkill for most. These are strong and well built sliders.

 

Thank you for posting! Those are the exact sliders I want to replace my OEM running boards!

Sounds like they aren't just sliders and do provide a decent step.

 

I know the kick out is debatable. I find it is what I prefer when using sliders for stepping on some extra space when using roof rack. Just stepping in and out of truck it would be fine no kickout.

 

Good choice, I have had mine for 3 years.

 

For me the utility of kickout for roof access is enough of a reason to have it. RSG is on my short list for when I add sliders.

 

Thanks. I definitely want the kick out. The added benefit it provides protection wise is worth it to me as well.

I want the stainless logos tough. lol

 

I went with HREW. My off-road stuff is camping, forest service roads and mud / sand.

 

The kick out is for when I visit my parents, (Mid 80’s) and they ride in back. It provides a wide enough platform for them to navigate in and out without assistance.

 

Yeah I’m leaning the same way!!

 

I heard the RSG sliders can be used to jack up the 4Runner from the side. Have any of you done that and how comfortable did you feel about it? Did you think “Rock solid no problem” or was it more like “Well, in an emergency …”?

 

I have done it at home as a test before needing to do it remote. Rock solid very strong bolted to frame many points.

 

I have RSG sliders but haven’t used them yet as a jack point. What kind of jack did you use?

Yes the KDSS valve cover must be trimmed. A rectangle of about 1-½ inches by ½ inch has to be trimmed off. A hacksaw will make short work of it.

 

Hi lift. Yes I know this can be dangerous and is a last resort. It was a test me verifying in controlled environment how I felt about it. Bottle jack with blocks is my first step.

 

Do you think its worth going for DOM if I want to use it as a jack point? I have been thinking of mounting mud tires on my OEM rims for when I off road and jacking one side from them would make it super easy.

 

Honestly not sure. The HREW is probably strong enough, but I knew that wanted to be able to use as jack point with confidence strong enough. I will admit that I have a tendency to over build stuff trying to guarantee it won't be a failure point.

 

Excellent choice...!!

I have HREW because I'm no hard-core offroader. It's there just in case. They are strong enough for hi-lift jack.

Yes, install is a piece of cake since I don't have KDSS.

I did paint the frame before install. There are some scratches on my sliders that I need to paint some time. (Edit - Yes they are powder coated but I think it would be OK to paint since I've done the same to my skids when they are scratched)

Here's my non-expert install video for anyone who is in the fence thinking it's hard to install. As seen on the video I'm no strong guy or have any fancy tools.

https://youtu.be/uUCnlJVStE8?feature=shared

 

Good install video. Part of me wonders whether the rust spray is necessary or not, but looks like you're protected if it is.

Quick question though: do the installation instructions include popping out all the covers, or did you do that based upon some other factor?

 

If I'm not mistaken I'm not supposed to remove the plastic tabs per the install instructions. But I saw one having rust on the frame because of dirt and mud sitting between them not removing the tabs.

 

I suspect no matter what one does, there’s always room for worry and rust!

 

I have seen where on videos they were removed where the slider were against that area. Which is the right way??

 

Curious how much higher (close to body) are the RSG is vs the OEM stock plastic running boards?

Looks like my running boards are about 2" lower than he body under the door.

 

I don't know the measurement from the top of the step to the bottom of the body panel you're asking about, but I was curious as to the ground clearance of my RSG Sliders vs the oem running boards. A fellow worker has an SR5 with Toyota running boards, so I took some measurements. The bottom of the oem running boards is 2.5" lower to the ground than my RSG sliders.

I can measure the body clearance if you want.

 

Generally, frame mounted sliders are as close as they should be to the rocker panels under the door. I’m sure it’s good to leave a little bit of space because even solid sliders will flex a smidge depending on the hit.

For my caliraised sliders, I removed any of the plastic plugs that interfered with the sliders. I wanted those mounting plates to lay as flat as possible against the frame. I think if you don’t remove them, you’ll probably pull the frame out to meet the mounting plate once proper torque is applied. Kind of how like dent-pullers work. Personal experience has show me that less than 35 ft-lbs of torque on a bolt that goes through a frame rail is enough to start bending the walls of the frame rails together. So it stands to reason the same torque would pull the frame wall out, until it meets the slider’s frame plate.

Regarding the rust, personally, I would clean any mating surfaces well, then liberally apply woolwax or similarly thick product. That way, you’ll have as close to a waterproof/dust proof interface as possible. And even if water does get between there, the woolwax keeps the water from actually getting on the metal.

This is what my frame looked like when I removed my sliders after 3 wisconsin winters:

 

It’s nice if the slider catches a door here and there, but I wouldn’t count on it. My 18 highlander door makes contact with the 4runner sheetmetal pretty high up, My caliraised sliders are not even anywhere close to the highlander door. I’m talking several inches clearance. Being since most vehicles on the road are SUV/crossovers, or modern tall cars, chances are most doors won’t hit the sliders first. Maybe a very small car, or low sports car door will hit the slider.

 

Good point. At least we're safe from all the sedans & sports cars.