After Front end Crash - '99 won't run ?

OK -- I had a crash which bent the front fame rails and moved the radiator enough to cause the fan blade to hit the fan-blade shroud. But, the Radiator didn't puncture and there is plenty of clearance between the Fan and the radiator -- after I broke off part of the shroud.

However, once I broke off the shroud to free up the fan blade, the engine now starts but... runs for only a few seconds then dies. I almost have to have the Throttle at like 3/4 open to get it to run ( VERY POORLY ) for much more than a few seconds.

I have used an OBD II gauge and it shows NO Pending or tripped codes !

I disconnected the battery, shorted the Posite and Negative cables ( After being disconnected from the battery ) and then retried to start the vehicle.

And... SAME thing . It starts and runs VERY POORLY for only a few seconds. And... NO OBD II codes !

The accident wasn't all that forceful and none of the airbags deployed.

I would like to sell the vehicle. However, if the engine won't run it makes a sale much more difficult and the vehicle much less desirable as a "fixer".

Vehicle has only 198K and the timing belt was "supposedly" replaced at 110K.

I say "supposedly" as there is no sticker indicating that it was changed. The CARFAX is what stated that the belt was done at 110K.

Vehicle is a 5-speed manual. I may have not pushed in the clutch when the other vehicle stuck mine. Possibly the impact and force caused the timing belt to jump a tooth ?

I dunno what is wrong ??

Any troubleshooting ideas would be MOST Appreciated !

Bob

 

Could be out of time. I think you need to pull the entire front end of the engine off and verify everything.

Accidents are a funny thing. I can guarantee you that the fan got hit harder than you think.

 

Thanks for your feedback !

I will remove the Timing cover and rotate the crankshaft until the Timing Sprockets should be in alignment to see if there has been a timing belt "slip"

Bob

 

Vehicles with an electric fuel pump have what is called an inertia switch, in the event of a crash it will trip causing the fuel pump to stop, they are usually located under the dashboard, a simple push of the button on top will reset it, hope this helps

 

Great Feedback about the inertial fuel cut-off !
I've been focusing on other issues and didn't remove the timing cover yet.
But, your suggestion certainly seems viable.
Thanks

 

Not these cars.

They have a Circuit Open Relay instead. COR.

 

OK... YUP this COR may be the culprit.
Its late but I will check tomorrow. As I recall, the air inlet hose popped off @ the throttle body. If correct, then the MAF wouldn't have airflow. That would result in the COR not getting a signal resulting in no voltage to the fuel pump !
Stay tuned fir an update tomorrow.
Bob

 

FIXED !

 

Thanks to ALL who helped me FIX this simple problem !

The Crash moved the front end over by about 1 1/2" - This caused the Rubber Bellow to become disconnected from the plastic Throttle Body Inlet tube ( See images ).

I did NOT know about the COR and its operation until getting feedback from this post.

With NO airflow past the MAF ( Disconnected Bellow to Air inlet Tube ) - No signal was given to the COR to keep the Fuel Pump running.

The COR has 2 inputs:

1) Ignition Switch -- When Starting, the COR energizes the Fuel Pump via the Ignition Switch -- So my car would START

2) MAF Signal -- After the start, when the Key is returned to RUN position, the COR needs the MAF signal to keep the Fuel Pump energized

Thanks for this education !

Bob