Research: Sleeping, fold-flat-ability, hump, 2 vs 3 row?

Yes, but they're tallied on a an addendum sheet that's normally(around here)posted next to the window sticker.

 

Good point, just like the side steps, etc. So maybe they should put a line item on that addendum sheet "Rear sliding cargo deck delete mod - additional cargo space added" lol. But seriously....

 

Hey! That'll work. lol

 

MeefZah - I just wanted to say thanks for posting the dimensions etc for your platform. I really like the simplicity and functionality of your setup, so I just built one for my 4Runner that is very similar to yours. I also bought the Action Packers (great find by the way!) and plan to remove the rear seat for camping, but haven't done that yet.

I did do a few things a bit differently, in case anyone is curious:

1. I decided to leave the plastic trim piece in, so I made the platform a bit smaller. It is the same 43.5' width but the length came out to 35.75" (would likely work at 36" long as well). The 2X2 supports underneath are 33.5" long, so the plywood overhangs about 2.25" at the front, but it also rests on the sloped trim piece for support. Seems to work well so far. I thought about mitering the ends to match the slope of the trim piece but couldn't figure out a way to get the right angle on them with the tools I have, so I just cut them shorter.

2. I used some 3/4" plywood, instead of 2 layers of 1/2" plywood. This reduces the finished height by about 1/4" but I plan to add some carpeting on top and maybe a thin layer of foam under the carpet to raise it up a bit and add a bit of padding. Athough with the cargo tray in place it's actually pretty close to level with the seats down. And I think with a 4" Megamat on top a small difference won't really be noticeable.

3. I didn't add any tie-downs to the platform, but the 4 existing tiedowns are still accessible so for now I don't think I'll need more. Can always add later if needed.

4. I used wood I had left over from other projects, so total cost to build was $0 - and I now have more space in the garage. Bonus!

Again, thanks for the great write-up! I'm excited to take it out camping soon...

 

Is that rubber backing on the back seats? Does that come in the 4Runner now? I need to get some of those.

My Rav4 has it, no idea why the Runner wouldn't.

 

It did not come that way, I ordered the rubber seat back covers on Amazon. They velcro to the carpet on the seat backs. Highly recommend!

$51 powoq 5 Seats Cargo Mat Compatible with 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner Trunk Mat TPE Cargo Liner Trunk Liner Back Seat Protector Replacement for 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner Accessories

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFQVXHSD?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

Could you describe where they are? I can't seem to get at them. I looked behind the seats when they half-way folded forward and could see under the fascia. There seemed to be quite a few plastic pieces connecting the fascia to the floor, mostly associated with anchoring the D-rings. Am I looking in the right place?

 

You've gotten a lot of good info already OP but here is another thread on this topic and my post specifically about measurements and another option for a simple solution to make it flat.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/sleeping-mattresses-for-the-back.25098/page-2#post-451948

 

my wife and i sleep in the 4runner for 2-3 days. Thats the most then we go to a hotel. Not horrible but it is doable.

 

Are you asking where the two bolts are? They hold the D rings down, you have to pop up the plastic at the D rings IIRC to access the bolt heads.

 

Yes, that's what I'm looking for. The Service Manual calls that piece the "Deckboard Sub-Assembly". The diagram looks like the bolts are right under the D rings, as you said, so the plastic covers must pop off. The diagram also looks like deckboard has a bunch of plastic connections to the floor beneath it and the "Rear Floor Carpet Assembly" behind it. I'll try getting at those bolts and I assume the plastic connections can all be popped free. Thanks.

 

It's a bunch of supports and one connector in the middle, that you need to slide forward, I think.

 

Just pop up the covers directly under the d rings to access the bolts, then then they are out pull the whole fascia up, the plastic tab(s) pop free easily.

 

I'm leaving this partly as a note for myself. Pop the covers from the back seat side. The 10mm bolts were torqued at the factory to just over 35 in-lbs (+/- 6%). The best way to pop the plastic tabs free is return the seat backs to their full upright and locked position (with the seat bottoms still folded open), then feel for the plastic pillar in the very center. It comes free with a gentle two-finger tug, straight forward parallel to the floor. It doesn't want to come loose with any safe amount of vertical force.

I think I'll cut my platform to expose the brackets for the D-rings, they might be handy.