Differential Drain Plug-Won't Budge

I think that's happened to everyone who used one of those more than once, and half the people who only used one once.

 

I’m in the party now
Made it to almost 90K miles with “no problems” for diff changes

does anyone know if the KAON front diff plug fits 5th gen’s?

i know a guy on TW said it worked for his ‘12 Tacoma

https://www.kaon.com.au/front-diff-fill-plug-to-suit-toyota

 

I’ve noticed this too, even on diff bolts I’ve torqued myself. Maybe it’s something to do with the combination of the solid chunk of steel it goes into, and the stoutness of the bolt itself. I’ve heard proper torque is about “flexing” the threads a tiny amount…not enough to deform them, but enough to keep things tight. Maybe those factors make it hard to loosen if it’s just the slightest bit over torque spec? Just spitballing, not sure.

 

I went ahead n ordered the Lexus DRAIN plug but id love to replace the FILL for front diff as well…seems it might be the same as the transfer case…cant tell

https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_201...AL-FOR-TRANSFER-CASE/63613416/9034114012.html

 

Had the same issue with my '19 just a month ago.I don't have a lift and just could not get any leverage. I did heat it and used PB Blaster, but couldn't get it to budge.

Finally gave up and took it to my local repair place and even they really struggled with it. Wish I had known about the Lexus alternative plug.

So....has getting the drain plug out for the second time been just as much of a struggle?

Or is it only a problem with the factory install?

 

There's a Lexus fill plug too:

90341-24016 Lexus front diff drain plug

90341-18060 Lexus front diff fill plug

 

Duuuuuuuude the only place that even mentioned a FILL PLUG was a random Aussie place

thank you

side note: just ordered fill
Thanks again @Tooly

 

It’s known to be a bug bite in the middle of the back
This is my 3rd…not torqued wrong, just the “metal” finally gave out
Same thing happened to my oil filter plug after so many changes

 

The drain plug is installed dry at the factory. In subsequent removals, the threads are lubricated by the drained oil, so it shouldn't be a problem unless the mechanic dowsed the threads on the diff case with brake cleaner.

 

I always just wiped the diff case threads with lint free cloth
Cleaned the actual plugs with alcohol, let dry
N recoated both threads with new oil

 

Sometimes even the Lexus drain plug gets stuck. I think the torque spec is too high but they have it at 48 ft. lbs. for a reason I guess. I struggle every time. Heat and a hammer to it seems to help.

 

Use heat to help break corrosion, but in the case of the drain plug heat expansion works twice against you -- 1. Heat expands the metal around the threaded hole in the diff effectively making the hole smaller. 2. Heat expands the plug metal effectively making the plug larger in diameter. End result you've now increased the amount of torque required to break the plug loose.

Try to think the opposite when it comes to threaded interfaces, chill out and take it easy.

I would chill the diff and plug down, use ice water, dry ice...hell even turn a can of compressed air upside down and spray away. Hit the plug with a hammer (not hard, just shock load it) a couple of times and then apply torque. If need be, I would simultaneously apply torque and tap down, alternately I would apply torque with a breaker bar and tap/hit the bar to apply a torque shock load (aka impact wrench style). The main idea here is to 'nudge' the fastener loose one minuscule step at a time, not try to break it completely free in one fallen swoop...lest things begin to break.

 

I think it will, the part number looks to be the same. I just ordered both fill and drain plugs from KAON, will report back if they don't work haha!

 

Strange that the torque spec is that high when the engine oil drain plug is 30 ft lbs .

 

I must have gotten lucky, mine didn't require more than a simple ugga dugga with the breaker bar.

 

When the ugga dugga doesn't work, a 3 foot section of pipe and two ugga's normally does the trick.

 

@Nubes
Did you receive an ETA on the KAON set?

even with the Lexus parts on their way, may pull the trigger for kaon just in case

 

Problem isn't enough torque, it's whether the socket will hold up too the pressure.

 

Ordered 5/5 and received a notice today 5/6 that it was shipped but it currently does not have an estimated arrival date. The Australia Post tracking number shows it at the Brisbane airport currently.

 

I am guilty. On the taco i was so frustrated with this $hit and thru an impact and all i had on me...nothing. got it all $^&$*@#@. Irritating, had to use a chisel and a hammer later on. I had to heat it up too. I hate the front with passion.

 

What’s the difference between the Lexus and the KAON ?

 

@Nick B
Real quick, main difference seems to be material used n possible dimensions

 

From a quick search it looks like the Lexus plug uses a 14mm socket where the KAON is 19mm for the fill and 24mm for the drain.

 

Yeah bigger bolt size
I think shorter thread length
N hardened steel…looks like gold galvanized

 

As a technical note, holes in metal typically get larger when uniformly heated. So heating the area surrounding the hole, while leaving the screw "cold" should help.

 

Here's a stainless steel front diff drain plug, strong magnet, ships from the US: https://goldplug.com/products/ap24/

Rear diff drain plug if you don't rock crawl: https://goldplug.com/products/ap05/

Gold Plug doesn't appear to offer fill plugs (without a magnet).

 

Are these same on front and rear, or rear uses different sizes. I am slowly prepping to get mine done but dreading the seized or stripped bolt.

 

Well, you can always suck it out of the fill hole with a tube? Thats what I did.

 

Fill plugs are the same M18 thread size front and rear (also the same size for the tranny and T-case).

Drain plug is M24 thread on the front diff, but M18 thread on the rear diff and T-case.

Rear diff drain plug if you don't rock crawl: https://goldplug.com/products/ap05/

 

Just did my diffs and transfer case a couple of weeks ago everything was easy as the fluids were changed 30K ago except the front diff drain. I had my mechanic change the fluids previously and he mentioned he could not get the front drain off but I really wanted to let it drain properly so had a go after soaking in Kroil overnight, first with a regular 1/2 wrench, then with a 1/2 3ft breaker it did not budge at all. Then I hit it with the 1/2 mid size impact on the first 3 settings still no dice. Then I used my mini harbor freight hammer on the head, its small like a gunsmithing hammer with brass on one side and plastic on the other. I hit the head as hard as I could about 10 times with the brass size and then went at it with the 1/2 impact on full torque and it span right off. So not sure it it was the full torque setting of the impact or the hitting with the hammer but one or both of them worked.
I got these sockets for the impact, highly recommend, fit great and you need the extra lenght with the stuff in the way.

$37 Neiko 01136B 1/2" Drive Allen Hex Impact Socket Set, Metric, 6 mm - 19 mm, Cr-Mo, 8-Piece

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JOT2TM?th=1

FYI - After 30k miles the front and rear diff fluids looked perfect still, the front diff plug had a fair amount of sludge on it which was expected as it likely had not been cleaned in 95k miles, the dirtiest fluid was the transfer case which I am not going to change every 30k.