Electrical connection for winch install

I'm planning on installing a winch to the C4 low pro front bumper, on my 23 TRD Premium. I see many winch install discussions, but couldn't tell if a fuse or a disconnect is required for a winch install.

I'm planning on installing a disconnect for sure, this seems to be more common. 1 of these boat or marine types. the winch can draw a maximum of 360A if pulling the full 10K lb. So that means I need a disconnect rated for that as well, correct?

How about the fuse? Is that necessary? Some install video I have seen don't have neither, just direct connection to the battery.

Maybe there is a thread already for this topic, I did a quick search but didn't see any.

Thanks for any pointers.

 

Fuse would probably blow under heavy load. I don't use one and just use the disconnect switch, but have it very close to the battery. i would also recommend putting plastic shielding over the wires to protect them from chaffing on something and shorting out.

 

Warn sells solenoids. You can wire the solenoid to a switch. You can mount the solenoid close to the positive. Here's what I did. Thread includes a manual switch McSpazatron did.
https://www.4runners.com/threads/winch-solenoid-mounting-location-idea.27872/

 

It's not required, but it's not a bad idea.

The solenoid mentioned above by @Thacrow seems like an ideal solution.

I still have mine wired straight to the battery after 3 years, but I'm considering a disconnect of some sort.

 

Thanks everyone, I think I got my answer and I know what I will do now. Appreciate it very much.

 

I forget, but the switch I bought from napa had three ratings. Continuous, a 5 second rating, and peak/momentary rating. i think it was 500/750/1000amps. Found it in the discount bin for a steal, so I had to get it lol. It might be overkill, but I’ve heard that winches bound down by a car getting hung up on rocks, etc can draw massive momentary loads. Better safe than sorry.

I think I looked at options for fuses, but was surprised at how expensive they were. I just went with the switch because it gives you the option of disconnecting the power for every day driving, or if there is a malfunction with the winch in the middle of a pull.

 

Let us know what you end up doing

 

Fuse: no, not practical on high and variable amp draw devices like a winch

Disconnect: great idea but a switch or solenoid seems like money wasted and a point of possible failure.

Here's how I did it. Connect when needed. Disconnect when not. Takes 5 seconds, no tools. Buy a few wing nuts though because they tend to get sacrificed to gravity at inopportune times ...

 

Per your point I keep an extra solenoid in my glove box but also kept enough slack to hard wire it if the solenoid goes. I would be worried about wing nuts coming loose.

 

My solution does require tools and a minute or so of time, but it is a good connection.

 

Can someone explain the reason for the disconnect?

 

I mean whats the reason for a fuse? Its a "just in case" switch, except a fuse works without human intervention. As does a solenoid. Disconnect is just in case, and also keeps any potential parasitic drain fairly unlikely

 

Um - a fuse is there to protect the wiring from melting if the circuit gets overloaded. So what’s the plan with the disconnect, do you stand there while the winch is running, with one hand on the wire and another on the switch, and then flip the switch if the wire gets too hot to touch?

 

My biggest concern is that in the event of someone hitting my front end (or me hitting someone), crushing the live, hot, large wire against a ground and causing a fire or worse.

 

That’s legit.

 

That's my reasoning too same as OverRunner. Mostly for not starting an engine fire if there's a bad accident.

My winch has blue tooth as well so there would be a drain on the battery unless I manually turned that off. There is a switch for that on the winch but I can't get to it without removing the plastic under the hood.

It's cool to have a switch in the cab that actuates the solenoid. Not necessary at all. Just cool.

 

Ive used something like this (below) for dual batteries in another vehicle. It allows you to leave everything connected. If you were in an accident it would automatically disconnect and I guess you could leave it off it you wanted too.

$23 Young Marine Circuit Breaker for Boat Trolling with Manual Reset,Water Proof,12V- 48V DC (Surface Mount-60A)

https://www.amazon.com/YOUNG-MARINE...prefix=12v+circuit+breake,aps,202&sr=8-3&th=1

 

my winch states it pulls up to 446 amps. Just gotta make sure you got enough headroom for the winch.

EDIT: ...which is why most people put them on a switch since a winch can take all of the amps of the battery. if it's drawing the full load of the battery, what's the point of a fuse. There's not. So put it on a switch and keep it off unless it's in use. Same reason starters have a solenoid and not a fuse (at least the starters I've been familiar with); that's just a switch. Not a fuse. and why Warn sells the solenoid.

 

Holy mackerel, I had no idea they drew 400+ amps. Yea....no go on the circuit breaker, my bad.

 

to be fair, i think the switch part of your fused switch is an excellent idea

 

That was pretty much my thinking. Another reason is to have control over a runaway winch. Not likely, but enough forum crawling and you run into stories of winches that get their motors hot enough to fuse weld themselves stuck “on” when pulling really hard, or even being triggered on by remote controls signals from a nearby trail buddy running a similar remote.

 

Never had a wing nut come loose, but it's only installed for pulls.

 

If you don't put a fuse in the circuit make sure your auto insurance fire coverage has a very low deductable...

 

What fuse would you use?

 

If you buy the HF Badlands 12k winch they include a disconnect in the kit. Seems ideal as you can hardwire to the battery and just use the switch when running the winch. That's my plan as I've got one sitting with my C4 lopro waiting on install. Will likely just design a custom plate for top of the battery to mount it.

 

I would size the fuse per the National Electric Code. Although the Code is slanted toward residential wiring I've found the overcurrect/overload protection requirements to be suitable for all voltage levels.

I'm a Professional Electrical Engineer so I'm legally bound to make sure my designs are technically correct, safe and fit for purpose. So I won't give you a fuse size without more information about the load. The best bet would be to hire someone who knows what they are doing to design/install electrical modifications.

It's obvious from some of the jake-leg baloney I read concerning electrics on this site that many 4Runner owners don't understand the technology or the risks they are taking when they add to or modify electrical circuits.

Properly sized fuses and circuit breakers prevent fires. It's that simple.

 

A 500 amp fuse, duh!

 

Thanks to everyone for your input, I will most likely not use a fuse, only a disconnect of some kind. Since it will only be switched on when I need it, which I hope will not be often. I will share what I put in after it's done. Right now, I need to content with a DIY roof rack and the C4 lo pro install. Just got done with the OME 3" lift BP-51.

 

Woah woah, way to bury the lead!

What kinda diy roof rack are you thinking? I built mine out of 3”x3” 1/4” angle aluminum rails and extruded crossbars (like Cali-raised and Prinsu), and a custom windscreen (painted by my wife). But I digress, what’s the plan?

 

When the power requirement about equals the maximum output of the battery, the fuse isn't doing anything. So. There's that.

Are you legally bound to use fuses as decorations? What color do you prefer?