Metal oil filter housing

Excellent video, thank you for sharing.

 

If they weren't meant to be removed you wouldn't be able to purchase the tube separately and swap it out in 10 seconds. These are serviceable. This guy gives solid advice but saying the housing is now trash because he removed the center tube is a little much. It's literally being held in by two metal tabs that can bend back in place. They're not flimsy tabs. There's no seal on that tube
It's a spring with tension and a small metal piece with a nipple on it. Just make sure you reinstall it correctly. His biggest advice should be never have a dealership change you're oil but he works at a dealership so you'll never hear that

 

The Car Care Nut opened his own independent shop recently. He is no longer working for a stealership. From what I can tell from his content (be that what it may) he has no shortage of clientele who seek out his services.

 

Im subscribed to him. I'm sure people seek him out. He's probably a great mechanic. That doesn't mean everything he says is the gospel. Read the comments on that video. You have people emptying out there oil in a panic to swap back the plastic housing because they're worried about engine failure because he said the oil filter housing is trash after the tube removal. That's ridiculous

 

I was less convinced by this myself. More concerned about his statement that running the shorter tube has the same effect as activating the bypass valve. That oil won't be flowing through the filter.

I'd figured (and posted this earlier) that the bypass works by dropping the filter down so it no longer mates to the engine block, and that's how oil can then circulate back to the engine without having to pass through the filter. But he seemed to be saying that the bypass valve acts to drop the tube, and that's what allows the oil to bypass the filter. So a shorter tube accomplishes the same thing.

I really don't know. Maybe he's wrong. But it does make me want to just go back to the OEM housing assembly. At the moment I'm running the metal one with shorter tube, cause that's what my shop installed when I broke the plastic one -- and they did not swap the tubes.

 

I'd definitely get the correct tube in it sooner than later but the metal or plastic housing are both fine

 

Yes, you need that longer tube in there, no matter what the dealer did. If you saved your old housing take it apart and look at the mechanism. It’s really not rocket science to disassemble it then reassemble it with the longer tube. Of if you’re intent on going back to plastic disassemble the metal one and see how it all works. Take pics and let us know your impressions.

Edit:
Here’s a reference:
https://trail4runner.com/2019/04/17/genuine-oem-toyota-metal-oil-filter-with-motivx-tools-wrench/

 

Ya, so can't you just take the plastic one apart, install in the metal one and be done?

Do we know the part numbers for the valve, spring & tube for the 4R or Tacoma?

 

You take the tube and spring from the plastic (factory) and switch to the metal.

 

I have a Jowett Performance housing on the way, so that's what I'll be swapping to.

 

I'm late to the party, but I also replaced the plastic housing, installed a fumoto value, bought the wrench, drain tube and recently picked up this funnel

$16 APSG LOCKING OIL FUNNEL | Compatible with select Toyota Lexus Scion | No-Spill Tool SCREWS DIRECTLY INTO FILLER | Fast & Easy Oil Change/Fill with No Mess !

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YDBV844

 

Yep, I wrote that article. No need to bend the tabs to swap the center tube. Just a little side pressure, and it pops right out. Reassembly is just as easy.

 

Good writeup. Bending the tabs is fine though. They're not flimsy and bend right back. I'd say they may be compromised if it's done too many times but this should be a one time deal for most people. You're also not putting any stress on the spring doing it this way it slides out clockwise without any twisting or bending sideways

 

There's a couple of YouTube videos showing the plastic to metal housing tube swap. Both show bending the tabs to remove the tube. This is one:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9nNBAnOJbCM

I'm guessing @57HotrodVW has figured a way to push the tube to the side at the top to avoid bending the tabs, but never having done it myself, I can't say I know for sure that's what he did.

 

I’m posting to validate the Car Care Nut’s concerns about aftermarket oil filter housings.

My shop installed a Doorman a couple weeks ago when I broke my OEM plastic housing and told them I’d prefer the metal version. (I meant the Toyota metal version). The Doorman is absolute junk.

I got a new OEM housing and decided to install it myself today because I wasn’t even certain that my shop had used the proper length stand tube.

Well, first off, oil leaked from the Doorman’s drain valve as soon as I unscrewed the cap. Second, the gasket around the valve fell right off. Third, the drain valve would not accept the plastic drain tool, it just dribbled here and there as I tried to push it in. Fourth, the inner tube assembly fell apart when I pulled off the dirty filter. The tube popped right off the bracket, and the bracket itself had dislodged from the bottom of the housing. I’ve honestly never encountered a crappier automobile part.

I’m happy to be back to the OEM housing, and now I have a good wrench (Motivx) I’m not worried about damaging it.

https://youtu.be/G_vl2AYe7Yg

 

The metal toyota housing is an oem part. I wouldn't use an aftermarket housing either

 

Want to be clear here, for the record, that I did not ask my shop to install a Dorman or any other aftermarket part. I asked them to install the metal version from Toyota, and also to swap the tubes. When I followed up for confirmation that they'd swapped the tubes, I learned they'd used the Dorman instead. When that became clear a few days ago I decided to replace it myself with the OEM plastic one, just to be on the safe side.

It was only when doing that replacement that I realized just how craptastic the Dorman is. I mean, was it basically functioning? Like, was oil getting filtered? I assume so. But that part clearly can't be relied on to work long term. It was in serious danger of leaking from the drain plug, and of having the tube dislodge and thus failing to perform its function. The shop said they've had a good experience with them, but then again how would they know if the thing was not actually filtering properly over 5K or 10K mile intervals? They wouldn't really.

 

It

that's something a decent shop should've run by you before installing for sure. What year 4runner?

 

Is this metal oil filter from Toyota? It says OEM. I called my Toyota dealership service department today and they said Toyota doesn’t make a metal one for 4Runner and the advise against using one.

 

It's from a Lexus. In the end it isn't needed and more of a feel good mod for people that can't not overtighten things.

 

Like me

 

I'm guilty as well. I forgot lefty loosy, righty tighty on the oil drain bolt for my ATV. It didn't put up much of a resistance since the housing was aluminum but replacement meant splitting the engine case.

 

Yikes! So sorry!

 

I did not bend the tabs on mine to get the tube swapped.

 

Does the Lexus this filter housing is designed for not require the longer center tube?

 

What was your method to remove/replace the center tube?

 

Its been a few months, but I just remember being able to remove it with applying firm pressure to the tube and using a twist motion to get it out and the same to seat it into the new metal housing.

I don’t remember which way I twisted but I was surprised I didn’t need to bend those tabs. Sorry it’s not more helpful info.

 

It does so that’s why you swap the tube but also should probably swap the spring.

 

No problem. You confirmed it can be done without bending the tabs, thanks.

 

CarCareNut is an awesome mechanic and purist on original design and parts. I'd suspect his cars have no aftermarket mods. If so, too bad and he is missing out a lot. Nothing ventured - nothing gained.