2022 4Runner fuel door hinge rivet rusty?

Check out his posts. Not a single positive post. Sounds like he bought the wrong vehicle Why come on a forum to do nothing but poo poo the vehicle?

 

This is what it looks like after spending seven winters in Colorado, which I would consider to be a moderate salt environment.

 

I had to check. Isopropyl alcohol to clean. Hairdryer to warm it. Touch up paint. OCD. Damn you guys.

 

I've always made it a habit to leave the fuel door open in the garage or at the house after I wash the truck. Sometimes I do the same with the hood if I did something especially muddy previously.

 

Ok, it’s not a Japanese Space Agency coating like thought. Definitely rust on the pop rivet nub.

That means the rivet was painted separate from the car, and the the fuel door was installed/rivet popped after after car went through paint.

I bet the guy toyota hired to drip a drop of paint on the nub went on long term disability and toyota just decided not to post his job. Makes perfect sense.

 

OMG that is just the "pull and pop" pin that is made out of Soft steel to compress the Aluminum Rivet so in no way is the Rivet compromised and a lot of times that pin falls out leaving a hole clear thru. I have seen where people have tried to replace it not realizing that it is a metric rivet and ended up with the fuel door out of alignment or loose because the rivet did not compress as good to hold it properly. Put a dab of same color paint on it and go drive away.

 

please don’t speak sense. We don’t do that here . Well said, good sir

OMG @Will!!! He has fewer posts than you do and figured it out!!!

(okay, now I am trolling)

 

I guess he went on disability after mine was built...you all made me go look - no rust spot here...

 

Did the pull nub fall out of yours? Maybe there is nothing to rust on yours?

Should I try to center punch the nub out? Hmmm, maybe I can practice on my wifes Higlander…

 

Toyota made a mistake not posting that guy’s job.

 

I noticed that on the later models the fuel cap says up to E15.

 

The corn farmers and ethanol producers got greedy and somewhere around 2010 petitioned the EPA to allow them to go from the 10% to 15%. EPA was only concerned about any increased emissions or possible damage to catalytic converters. They didn’t see any so they said OK, but only for cars model year 2007 and above. Never mind if it causes any other damage.

 

I’ve only seen E15 in the Mountain West where they advertise it as $.10 a gallon cheaper than the 85 octane swill.

 

It’s interesting how this all played out. Found this:
https://www.eia.gov/todayinenergy/detail.php?id=40095

 

Yep, they also have it with the lower octane junk on the small rail towns in the Texas Panhandle

 

Checked my "22 after reading this. Only 700 km on it but I see it just starting to rust on the top rivet. These rivet pockets are holding water causing the issue. Not a biggie but will address it now before it gets worse. Thanks to the OP for posting. Posting stuff like this helps new owners deal with the little things before they become bigger issues down the road out of warranty.

 

rivets are super simple to replace. Just drill it out, and put a new one in. The rivet gun is $14 or so and it will take all of 5-10 min to swap a new one in

 

But no one should even have to consider, let alone actually replace a rivet on a new vehicle.

 

I don’t think that this will ever “get worse.”

 

I would probably advise the people that are disturbed over the rusty rivet to never, ever, under any circumstances, look underneath the vehicle

 

Yeah OK first thing is a hand Rivet gun certainly will not apply the same amount of Pressure that they are installed with at factory, Second thing is it is not a "standard rivet" like what you are going to find at the local hardware, Third thing is it is BTW a metric Rivet. Forth thing is we found out the hard way on my FJ Cruiser just how darn hard it was to get the blasted fuel door lined up good. For all that it is worth there is Nothing wrong with that bloody Rivet and it will still be the same 10 years from now if you don't screw it up.

 

I’m curious if the cast headers rusting is considered to be a defect?

 

YES! By all means we need to Let Toyota Know We Want Ceramic Coated Ones and Nothing Less than that otherwise it is defective!

 

Or the drive shafts, the steering components, all the suspension components, literally every single fastener, the receiver hitch, the skid plates, and the chassis? Oh, and spare wheel and lowering hardware.

 

Yes absolutely and don’t forget maybe the frame also since that supports all the above mentioned items.

 

do not use aluminum rivets !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
use stainless steel rivets..................
ALUM contacts steel then the corrosion ...

 

Clean out the tiny amount of rust, add a dab of touch-up paint, then a drop of silicone sealer. Does anyone really want to spend any more time at the dealer, especially trying to convince a service writer that this needs fixing? They barely are willing to fix real issues.

 

And if I do it with a hand rivet gun?