What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Threw some 285/70 KO2s on

 

Those TRD wheels 7" wide like the old ones are?

 

Yep. I have 1.25” spacers on though

 

Mine did that after I installed a Toytec lift. They included a couple of spacers to drop the 'radiator' support bars in their kit. Chaos at work so it took me about 3 weeks to install those. Sway bar is higher on passenger side but I'm not changing anything now. 4Runner is dialed in. However, there is a rub channel on driver side of sway bar but that's on me for putting things off.

 

Looks awesome!

Any additional lift or stock Pro height?

Any rubbing with the 285's?

 

Thanks! Westcott lift, 2/1.25. It rubs the fender liner on full lock reverse with the spacers. Gotta do some cutting for sure

 

Did my measuring and layout, installed some nut inserts in my delete plate so I can bolt down my cooler slide and top platform and table that way it can all me removed and installed without wearing our standard screw holes. Sorry for the dark pics the only time I’m not working in half dark at a campground is when I’m layed off

 

Have you already gotten rid of your 3rd row seats?

 

there not in the vehicle, but I still have them

 

If you end up getting rid of them, want to ship me this trim piece?

 

Victory Rear Shelf

 

I plan on going the smoke plastidip route on these areas today.

 

Finally made it up into the mountains for some much needed R&R.

 

Actually, pushing the brake pedal and trying to shift (if it was remote started) will shut the engine down as well, even if the key fob is near by on push to start. With keyed ignition, the key has to be inserted to the ON position, and a tap of the brake pedal to be able to take the car. That's called Key takeover/override.

 

Put on my crossbars and the Yakima rack from my old one, did the blackout emblem kit, and the screen protector on the nav

 

Got it all put in, gonna reconfigure my edc bin to something with less of a foot print that I can shove up against back of seats. And the cooler slide is about 12” from back of seats so I’m going to mount something to the slide that brings that area forward so it’s not waisted/hard to reach space

 

Good to know - thanks! Oddly enough after about 4 days now there is zero chirping. Seems my re-grease effort on the bushings worked. Still concerned about that swaybar rub but that should get worked out in a similar manner once the shop gets the icon spacers.

 

I Like the trailer much! I don't think I've seen a tent setup like that before.

 

Nice Setup and Enjoy your trip!

 

Have to ask, but what brand did ya go with on the Dash Cam?

 

@ElectroBoy help me out.

100w solar panel on rtt with a disconnect at the roof rack then running to the redarc bcdc40d

amperage would be 8.33333333 what gauge wire can I tuck in the channel near the windshield that is effective. Will be about 5-7ft of run.

 

ICS dash mount kit came in today. Now I need to hook it up. This is some high quality CNC parts right here.

 

This will probably help you out…
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

 

is that the Matt or Glossy finish or am I confused and it’s the same powdered coated finish it’s just how they package the accessories?

 

I agree I normally use that for everything else but my biggest thing is is it different for power coming in vs power going out?

 

I unpackaged some of it. I bought everything in matte black.

 

Amps are amps. In or out. Figure ur run from batt to bcdc then to aux batt. Just need to be able to carry the amps of ur controller. I would upsize the one gauge on the car batt to controller side bc it will likely draw more than it puts out due to efficiency loss. 20 gauge wire will carry that 100 watt panel fine

 

Also at full sun is where u will get ur max amps and it will only be 5-6 but that’s at 19-20 volts. So that allows smaller wire. It won’t be u until it’s coming out of the controller that it’s 7-8 amps at 12v then the wire may need to be a tad bigger but in ur case you will size it to however many amp bcdc you have

 

Thanks. My redarc has been wired for a while. I over sized the wires purposely in the event of a voltage spike coming from my starting battery to the red arc and from the red arc to my house battery. I am running 4awg for those connections. From the house battery to the rear power distribution I have 4g as well. The only thing I never did hook up and just capped was the solar input wire for the redarc simply because I wasn’t going to put a hard mounted solar panel on. Now that I have the hardshell rtt coming I might as well use that big flat space when the rtt is on.

 

The Bluesea chart that @GrantA linked is a good standard 12V system reference for copper wire and limiting the voltage drop (i.e., the wire loss) to 3% =0.36V.

Let’s say your conservative requirements are 10A over 10 feet length of wire. The ohms/foot of copper wire according to AWG is;
AWG 20 = 0.0104
AWG 18 = 0.0064
AWG 16 = 0.00396
AWG 14 = 0.0025
AWG 12 = 0.00158

So the voltage drop at 10A over 10 feet would be Ohmsx10ftx10A:
For AWG 20 = 1.04V
For AWG 18 = 0.64V
For AWG 16 = 0.396V
For AWG 14 = 0.25V
For AWG 12 = 0.158V

This is how that Bluesea chart was derived and why they recommend AWG 14 for your application. You can also see that AWG 20 will drop 1.04v at 10A. Even at 5A it would drop 0.52V. Not good.

If your wire run is really only 7 feet you could use AWG 16 and your voltage drop for 10A would be 0.00396 x 7 x 10 = 0.277V.

If you had actual values of wire length and worse case current you could run the numbers and maybe get down to AWG 18. But bigger is better as long as you can make it fit.

Good luck with your setup. Let us know how it goes.

(Reference:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html)