Rear 12v outlet

Is there a fuse configuration to supply 12 v power to rear outlet with key off ?

 

I think the only way to bypass that would be getting a second battery system routed to that outlet. I’m not an expert in this area though, someone else may chime in and provide more info.

 

There is no factory way to do it.

 

You would be better off bypassing any stock wiring because of the higher amperage draw and use a heavier gage wire.

 

While I do not know if the same relay comes into play - for that circuit?
(if not) locate the appropriate relay - the fix would be the same.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/always-hot-power-outlets-pictures.665/

 

What’s your intended use?
If you want to power a high current fridge a separate dedicated circuit from the battery would be best.

If for low current use like phone charging then there’s a mod for constant 12V to all outlets. It involves using two add-a-fuse taps to jumper constant 12V to replace the accessory 12V in the fusebox under the driver side dash.

 

Has anyone has any issues running a Coleman Power chill cooler for about 8hrs at a time with the rear 12V power supply?

 

I use pass side outlet for additional inverter. I also installed 24/7 12V fuse box on driver side rear.

 

I sincerely doubt you can pull that off without killing your battery. According to Coleman, you need a 12v outlet capable of handling 5 amps or 60 watts. Run that thing overnight and I'm willing to bet that you'll wake up with a dead battery.

On the other hand, if you spend the bucks on this

Dometic CFX28 12v Electric Powered Cooler, Fridge Freezer, CFX-28, Black; Gray

https://www.amazon.ca/Dometic-Elect...ocphy=1002661&hvtargid=pla-493598404281&psc=1

......then you're rocking. .77 amps is a far cry from 4 or 5 amps. Yeah, pricey. But your battery will thank you.

 

What a shame. On my 06' Charger SRT, you could simply swap the fuse over one row to choose constant 12v.

 

Or...... alternative power supply?

https://www.jackery.com/?gclid=CjwK...E1KBq9KRTDkOImppzS2xyusc-Ou0QWghoCGsYQAvD_BwE

 

Yeah, the problem with solar panels is that they don't get sun all the time (cloudy/night...). As well the further you are from the equator, the less efficient solar panels are. You're in CA, so you're better off. Up here in Quebec, the solar panels put out way less juice. And they're only around 23% efficient to boot. I'm sure that with multiple panels and a honking big 1000 watt power station, you'd be pretty well set. But now you're at $1000 USD for the power station and at least two 100 watt panels at $300 USD a pop, the $900 USD for a Dometic cooler still comes out cheaper.

Having stated the above, those panels and power station are sweeeeeet. If I still hunted or camped, I'd be on all of the above like a fly on shit....

 

Yeah I did some electrical work on a guy's Durango and it was the same. Swap the outlets from acc to batt by moving the fuse over one slot. I was mildly impressed with the idea.

 

Pricing is a real tooth puller for sure. After scouring the versatility, practicality and operational capacity of the Jackery's themselves(less solar panel)I was sold. Tho I did add one panel to the mix. One day this technology will be considered just a normal part of our kit. imo

 

The problem with the 5th gens is that the relays are extremely hard to get to and tied up with the ECU, so modifying a relay to supply constant power is a huge pain in the ass. I haven't actually heard of anyone doing it (on a 5th gen).

Most people sound like they resort to running a new wire to run a fridge.

 

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I meant while driving, I know that would kill the battery without the vehicle running.

 

If your 5th Gen model year is 2019 or before, you can make a fuse mod for constant power to all 12V outlets as shown in the posts below. I don’t think the posts are complete enough so I’ve added some details below.

You’ll need to have a multimeter and be aware of which side of the fuses are the hot side and which is the load side. And in which location of each fuse tap, top or bottom, to insert the fuses.
The theory is that you plug a fusetap into a blank location that does have 12V power available at one pin. Then you connect that to the load side of the P/OUTLET fuse location to supply constant 12V to the outlets. The fusetap in the P/OUTLET that you install will have a fuse inserted in the top location only. This disables the ignition switched 12V from powering the loads and allows constant 12V to power them instead. I have not done this mod myself but the theory is sound, and many others have done it.
** Do at your own risk**

Here are some tips, sorry if you already know this:
-This should work for 5th Gens up to 2019. From what I understand the electrical systems and fusebox setup are different for 2020 and up.

-Get oriented with your setup. Make sure you understand what you are doing.

-You will be on your back looking up at the fusebox. Move the seat back, put a towel or two down, one for your head, get comfy.

-Use a multimeter to check for which side of each fuse you are working on within the fuse box socket, which is the hot side and which is the load side. Details are below.

-With the truck off, key out of the ignition, pull the P/OUTLET fuse. Put key in ignition, turn to Accessory position and with your multimeter on volts, check each side of the now blank P/OUTLET fuse location to find the pin with 12V on it. The *other* pin is the load side to the outlets. That’s the side you will be powering with the constant 12V mod.

-Do a similar thing to locate the constant 12V at the blank fuse location. Your GND reference for the meter is any bare metal, like a bolt on your open door.

-Be careful probing and working with the constant 12V, you don’t have fuse protection yet.

-Understand how the fusetap is wired. Here’s the electrical path. You will be taking power from the hot pin of the spare, through its (fusetap) fuse, going through the wire to the wire of the next fusetap, through its fuse, into the pin on the LOAD side of the P/OUTLET fuse location.

-For illustration, the redlined fusebox cover pic below should be the path you will be wiring. With two serial fuses in between, of course.

-Get two 15A fuses that match the fuse tap holders you buy. There are two styles that will work. The Low Profile will sit lower in the fuse box.

-Install a 15A fuse in the top position of each tap.

-Measure and trim the wires for the best fit so they are not too long but can be bent properly and stay in place once installed. I don’t know the best length.

-Solder and heatshrink to insulate the fusetap wire connections.

-Install the taps in the orientation shown in the photo.

-Test the outlets with ignition Off.

-To cover up and protect this wiring mess buy an extended fusebox cover from MESO, or print your own or buy from this Etsy store.


https://mesocustoms.com/products/extended-fuse-cover-4runner?_pos=3&_sid=efca7226f&_ss=r

 

OK LEM (i.e.: Moon Lander), going to try rigging the Power Outlet relay per the instructions, seems like a good clean fix to calm my wife's coffee cravings at zero dark thirty when we are out camping and civilized people are still sleeping, lol. A 24/7 operating 12 volt outlet and converter to power her itty bitty 6 cup coffee maker will seal the deal, so to speak.

 

This is cool!

Haven't seen this workaround yet. Nicely done!

 

just remember the jackery while a great tool takes forever to charge off our rear 12v and even our rear 400w. I ran a jackery 500 because of size for about 3 days before I sent it back. It could not keep up with needs of my dometic. I now have a 78ah dual battery system that the dometic has been working flawlessly off of in both freezer and fridge mode for 3-4 weeks.

 

Now you tell me! kidding / I went full tilt and got the 1000 version(medium size 45 qt frig). As a backup I have a small 1800w Honda generator, that if need be will keep me out of trouble. I hope. As you know at this point it's a big experiment.

 

That’s interesting. Could you explain your dual battery setup? Is one a house battery dedicated to the fridge only? Or can both batteries supply it? A charge controller needed? Using stock alternator? How many hours of driving per day do you need to keep the batteries topped off? Thanks.

 

Sure thing.
Alternator : stock
Battery : Duracell platinum 24m agm battery
Controller: redarc bcdc charger 1225d
Safety hub: blue sea 6 gang
Misc wire: 4awg from battery to red arc to battery. 6awg from secondary battery ran to the rear of the truck, sine wave 1000 inverter at rear for 110 accessories (primarily battery charging for cameras and drone).

future upgrades will be added as needed but for right now we are running everything this way.

 

Nice. And just regular daily driving keeps the batteries topped up with fridge running too?

 

Yes sir. I did have one drop that my low voltage disconnect caught when I had set the freezer to 5* and didn’t catch what I had done and it was like that for almost a week with barely anything in that compartment. However as you can see here with the both sides set at 32 over the course of a week the power consumption was very minimal




You can also see the oops moment where I caught that I dropped the freezer side way way down. These are as of right now with me standing in my office and my truck in the parking lot. Ambient temperature over the last two weeks has been high 40’s - low 60’s

and once I turn the truck on you’ll see the battery go back up to 14.5v on the charge and in general I haven’t ran the battery dead in the last several weeks but an hour or two driving outs the redarc back into float charge and it will remain in float (vehicle running for about a week or so) so it never actually gets a chance to really run down fully since my commute is about 35-45 minutes one way. Also keep in mind there are about 15-20 Gatorade’s in one side and about 40 drinks in the other with a mixture of water and beer, canned coffee and some chocolate milks for my daughter.

when we go out camping it’s packed a lot differently and we do put frozen foods in the freezer side and drop the temp way down.

 

Your fridge looks to be quite efficient, even before it stabilized.
I suppose if you weren’t driving your normal amount you could plug into a battery charger at home.
It looks like you have your system dialed in really well. Good job.

 

Yes or you can go a step forward and install a shore power tender. I think @Agent_Outside did the same thing with a noco charger that he cut a small hole into his grille to plug a standard 3prong cable into. But yes if I’m not going to be driving mine for a while we will plug it into a smart charger and top off the secondary battery. And honestly anyone running a agm battery and possibly a lithium ion should do a monthly charge especially if you don’t drive much since your alternator can only do so much. The thing I love about the redarc is when the battery is low you instantly get a boost charge (when the truck is running) and it will throw the full 25/40/50 amps depending on model to the house battery and once it hits almost charged it drops to a trickle charge and then a maintainer charge.

 

Has any one tried the National Luna Battery Manager DIY Kit? https://www.nationalluna.com/product/battery-manager-diy-kit

 

There's also this for constant 12v. Comes with a built in voltmeter.

https://www.**************/products...-system-with-voltmeter?variant=21509385519189