1. Welcome to 4Runners.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all 4Runner discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other 4Runner owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Stuck CV axle shaft, need some help

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by alane24, Dec 20, 2020.

  1. Dec 20, 2020 at 3:39 PM
    #1
    alane24

    alane24 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2020
    Member:
    #18642
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    2006 4Runner Limited
    I spent the day trying to replace both front CV axle shafts on my '06 4Runner. The passenger side was easy, I popped the old axle out with a 2' pry bar and put the new one in with seals and all. Simple job. However, I cannot get the driver's side axle out. I'm starting to think I'm missing something really simple, but in theory, it should just pop out with some effort.

    Here's what I've tried:
    Here are a couple of videos documenting what I've tried (pry bar method not shown)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ax4odeh9gcfxnw/IMG_1322.mov?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/omtto8k2secg02u/IMG_1321.mov?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ucxvc4duqf78rw/IMG_1320.mov?dl=0

    I'm sort of lost at this point. I'm starting to question if the cir-clip on the inner splined axle that slides into the diff-housing is mangled and it's not allowing the axle to slide out.

    I really want to get this done. Open to ideas, need a little help here.
     
  2. Dec 20, 2020 at 3:48 PM
    #2
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2019
    Member:
    #9314
    Messages:
    12,413
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    S/E Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRDORP, KDSS, MGM
    RSG sliders, Yakima offgrid basket, Pro-Comp wheels, SOS Streamline bumper and skids, Warn VR EVO10S winch + Ultimate Sidewinder, Bilstein 6112 + 5100 + rear lift coils, Rigid Dually SS ditch lights w/Caliraised brackets and OEM style dash switch
    Have you tried rotating it, so you're not just prying on the same side? Does it budge at all?
     
  3. Dec 20, 2020 at 4:01 PM
    #3
    alane24

    alane24 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2020
    Member:
    #18642
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    2006 4Runner Limited
    Yep, I’ve been rotating and hammering. Rotating and prying. I’ve hammered and pried from both sides. Spent about 4 hours on this side before calling it quits.

    I’ve tried tapping it inward toward the diff, just to see if that would help. It hasn’t.

    There’s about an 1/8” of in/out play, but no more.
     
    Thatbassguy[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Dec 20, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #4
    Cooper30

    Cooper30 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2020
    Member:
    #18643
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2008 V8 Limited
    The service manual says to hook the end of the slide hammer on to the flat, but I've never had much luck doing that on stubborn axles.

    I usually take a hefty cold chisel and a short sledge...I put the chisel on one of the flat parts and hit it hard. I go right under the front end to find the best angle of attack. It can take trying a few different positions to get the most solid blow when the truck is on jack stands as opposed to a lift (where you can walk under it).
     
    Thatbassguy and alane24[OP] like this.
  5. Dec 20, 2020 at 4:35 PM
    #5
    alane24

    alane24 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2020
    Member:
    #18642
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    2006 4Runner Limited
    I’ll give this a try and see if I can get a chisel to bite. The small hammer might be what I need so I can actually get a good swing—wielding the long handled 8 pounder is a chore from underneath. Hard to find a good angle of attack.

    Thanks
     
    Thatbassguy and Cooper30[QUOTED] like this.
  6. Dec 20, 2020 at 4:37 PM
    #6
    Mtbpsych

    Mtbpsych New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2018
    Member:
    #7922
    Messages:
    1,887
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2018 SR5
    Some shafts are just sealed in there and won’t come out easy. Seems like you’re doing everything right, just needs more hard love.
     
    Thatbassguy likes this.
  7. Dec 20, 2020 at 4:53 PM
    #7
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2019
    Member:
    #9314
    Messages:
    12,413
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    S/E Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRDORP, KDSS, MGM
    RSG sliders, Yakima offgrid basket, Pro-Comp wheels, SOS Streamline bumper and skids, Warn VR EVO10S winch + Ultimate Sidewinder, Bilstein 6112 + 5100 + rear lift coils, Rigid Dually SS ditch lights w/Caliraised brackets and OEM style dash switch

    Sounds like a pain in the ass! I hope you get it!
     
  8. Dec 20, 2020 at 6:44 PM
    #8
    kbp810

    kbp810 rebmem wen

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2019
    Member:
    #8935
    Messages:
    616
    Gender:
    Male
    The trick I use is to use two pry bars at a time; prying on both sides. It will usually come out without much fuss then.

    If only prying from one side, you end up side loading the little clip inside; and hence the shaft doesn’t want to come out.
     
    alane24[OP] and Thatbassguy like this.
  9. Dec 21, 2020 at 11:04 AM
    #9
    alane24

    alane24 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2020
    Member:
    #18642
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony
    Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    2006 4Runner Limited
    Going to go at it
    I went at it with a 2’ pry bar and a 12” chisel on the opposing side. A couple swift pops with the chisel while applying pressure with the pry bar managed to break it free. Doing this on your back is quite a bitch, but got it done. The driver’s side oil seal (in the diff housing) was a pain into the ass to get out as well.

    All in all this is a straightforward job made difficult by some unwilling participants.

    Thanks all
     
    Thatbassguy and kbp810[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Dec 21, 2020 at 11:38 AM
    #10
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2019
    Member:
    #9314
    Messages:
    12,413
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    S/E Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRDORP, KDSS, MGM
    RSG sliders, Yakima offgrid basket, Pro-Comp wheels, SOS Streamline bumper and skids, Warn VR EVO10S winch + Ultimate Sidewinder, Bilstein 6112 + 5100 + rear lift coils, Rigid Dually SS ditch lights w/Caliraised brackets and OEM style dash switch
    Glad you got it out!


    :woot:
     
    alane24[QUOTED][OP] likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top