Binding sound when accelerating in straight line

Ok

 

Either or, if you jack up the rear, in park, you shouldn't be able to turn the tire(s) by hand, or maybe in neutral, try turning one side while someone tries to hold the opposite side, try both sides, try locking diff. and try it. In front you might be able to feel around on the boot, see if you can feel any irregularity. Any way to check for metal in rear end housing? I'm not positive, just trying to eliminate stuff, sorry if this stuff sends you on a wild goose chase.

 

On the front if the axle has crapped out you should be able to grab the axle shaft and move it around like a floppy axle if it’s broken inside. Ask me how I know lol. It’s why I now I keep a rubber plug in my top box in case it ever happens again. (Full disclaimer my cv was snapped clean )

 

So whatever I did made it waaay worse as u see in the video but now (this was not doing this before) the driver side wheel is getting the worst of it. Reviewing the video it looks like that whole wheel moves side to side a little while it shuddering, I will check to see if lugs are loose or if there’s play in the steering rod. Scratching me head here but if it was the cv making the issue wouldn’t I have it all the time while driving on it without the front shaft? The wheels are spinning so the cv should be spinning?

https://youtu.be/juVYnLrzrE0

 

no worries I’m happy to be getting help, I have never had an issue like this one before so every suggestion is of value!!
New life I am under here now so I will feel around the boots maybe? And see if either side feel broken inside the boots and how much play, I’ll take a video of the amount of play in all the dive shafts.

 

so the drivers side cv feels fine initially but the boot is torn all the way around so I’m sure the intervals are messed up. I will order 2 and replace them next I guess. There seems to be a lot of play in prop shaft but I have no idea what I’m looking at. I’m going to the store to get a tool real quick then I will video what happens with diff lock on/off, 4wd hi/low and see what happens.
https://youtu.be/4EKjUrxq2gM

https://youtu.be/Z5ujPQXhwn0

https://youtu.be/48TO2HhVefY

 

Well...think its narrowed down to front diff or cv shaft

 

I was finally able to remove the front driveshaft after sticking a pipe at the end of my ratchet.

The binding sound is gone. However, my u-joints are in good shape so I guess that rules out the sound coming from there.

I am also driving with the center differential locked and only a rear driveshaft now.

 

Just to add, my CV boots are in good shape. They don't make any noise and spin freely.

Edit: My prop shaft does the same too, playwise.

 

General information
All 4 wheels off the ground and in park turning on rear wheel freely turns the other side in opposite direction. Holding one wheel from moving keeps the other side from moving as well
In neutral both spin freely abiet it’s hard to spin while the other isn’t moving but it does spin.
This happens in both 4hi/4lo and with diff lock off

With the center diff lock turned on in neutral and one rear wheel spinning while holding the other the front passenger spins

with center locked and 2 wheels held sill spinning one spins the 4th wheel

 

So what your next step??

 

well I tinkered with stuff I shouldn’t have and messed up the timing on my tcase actuator so I’m gonna end up having to just get a whole new transfer case, I don’t understand the few write ups on how to time the actuator, if I can get it timed correctly I will have to buy a new one. I will still see if I can track it down but if I do have to replace the whole t case let’s hope the issue was with that and the problem would be solved. Also I couldn’t verify online but my front diff has no electronics or vacuum or actuators of any kind so if it’s damaged it would have to be inside

 

When I first heard the binding I thought my transfer case was running dry. About four years ago I heard a constant clicking noise that eventually turned into a grinding/binding noise. One day I tried to reverse out of the garage and she stopped in her tracks.

I crawled under my truck to inspect and noticed the transfer case covered in oil. I opened the drain plug and two tablespoons of gear oil spilled out.

With two tablespoons in hand I prepared for the worst thinking I grenaded the t-case. To my surprise after topping it off with gear oil she ran like a top again! Not a peep underneath.

Anyways, I wish it was that simple this time around.

 

Now that I have the front driveshaft removed I've been driving around trying to replicate any audible or binding from prior. She's driving perfect as a 2Runner but this is only temporary.

I've literally been spinning my tires left and right by hand for any clue. The front differential and transfer case sound fine. My u-joints are silky smooth with no signs of play. The slip yoke compresses and extends with ease.

If I only drove with my front driveshaft will it bind? Probably. So what is it doing? I am stumped trying to figure out what changed literally overnight with the driveshaft and its dynamics.

One thing is for sure, it ain't the lower control arm! Pffft.

 

We got dueling binderknockings going on...who figures it out first...?

 

I may try that just to see what happens when you only drive with the front shaft in
Lol, also can you over grease the driveshaft where the yolk extends and compresses? I filled it with a good bit.

 

I noticed when greasing the slip yokes on my dump truck if I get a little aggressive they "grow" ever so slightly.... then to a point I think the grease "grows" the slip yoke, but only to a certain point, then the grease bleeds off on it's own, probably retained in the yoke or assembly itself. 5 or 6 squirts should be plenty. A little grease ocassionally, will save big headaches down the road. P.S.- "overgreasing" can sometimes be worse than "not enough", but you're alright with the yoke.

 

this one must have been dry, I pumped maybe 12-15 the last 2 looked like the shaft extended a tiny bit then settled back down, I figured that would be enough lol

 

People change oil, and perform so many maintenance items on their vehicles, then do not grease it. the guy before you probably didn't own a grease gun......who knows. I sure hope you get this beast running right. It's frustrating at best...right!?

 

thanks! It’s crazy people don’t have to take a general maintenance class before owning a car lol, it is frustrating but since this is more of a toy and not my DD it’s not as bad

 

I’m going to start looking for another t case, I’ve found some on eBay for $1000 not sure if that’s a a good deal or not. My dad thinks the issue is in the front drive output shaft so if I get another case we will rip this one open and see what happened

 

Are you certaiin its coming fron the TC ??

 

I’m pretty sure it’s loudest there and without the propellor shaft the front diff and cvs make no noticeable noises same with the rear, it’s not gotten worse since I replaced the u joints so maybe the new joints corrected the angle and made the skipping worse? Im at a loss right now I’ve found a few t cases on eBay for around $1000, I’m trying to see how much a new chain is but can’t find a pet number for the chain

 

Check out ToyotaPsrtsDeal.com....I have purchased a few parts from them. If you cant find what you need....give them a call...

 

Check the app car-part.com I’ve found a ton of replacement parts at my local scrap yard there. For instance on the Tacoma I got my transmission, 2 front diff’s, front and rear Drive shafts for less than 1500.00 otd then they gave me 200.00 when I brought back my old worn out trans

 

Here’s just a quick search based off my zip in Knoxville. I see some for 600 some for 700 and some for call.

 

The cool thing about that app is it Cross references the years compatible with yours. Now some are off so just make sure you check before you buy.

 

Sweet I will check em out I can probably get a better a deal through anyone than eBay lol

 

I usually put enough grease in the yoke for it to extend ever so slightly then I back off. Usually a dry slip yoke will give off an audible clunk when stopping/accelerating but it's not what we are experiencing.

Did your previous owner separate the driveshaft from the slip yoke when he removed it? As you're aware it's an internally balanced shaft but maybe it's exacerbating your symptoms if it's out of balance.

My driveshaft has never been split apart. If it's in the transfer case wouldn't we be able to feel it binding when spinning it by hand in neutral?

 

Oh yeah, and if your driveshaft is full of grease now it might be quite difficult to compress it to uninstall a reinstall. You can remove the zerk fitting to release any excess grease to make it easier.