What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

First off, I agree completely with the SR5 being completely capable, However, that being said I have a word of caution. We went with the TRD Off-Road because of the manual transfer case. I don't trust the electrical dial transfer case shifter. 99.9999% of the time I am sure you wont have a problem with them. Now for the word of caution, on our last outing with a good size group, one of our party had a malfunction in the switch and could not get it out of 4WD. I don't know what they cost but it may be worth having a spare in your toolbox. They got to the trailhead and had to have it towed. The shop diagnosed it as a short in the dial. Just some food for thought.

 

Or remove the front driveshaft and drive it. Things happen, there are other ways around a tow.

 

Please excuse the crappy phone pics.

Saturday
Front: Bilstein 5100s, Wheeler's T1 coils(2.5" lift), SPC UCAs and Duro Bump Stops. 1/4" spacer on drivers side.



Rear: Bilstein 5160s, Wheeler's T13 coils(1.5" lift), and Duro Bump Stops. OME 10mm trim packer on drivers side.


Stealth Custom Series Ray10s & 285/70/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Excuse the shiny tires. Just cleaned it up and it's too damn hot waiting for them to dry for a picture.


Pro grille and front/rear lower valance went on last weekend.

Got a BMC & alignment done at Duggy's Garage this morning. All in all I'm really happy with this setup. Simple, clean, and capable for anything I'm gonna throw at it.

 

Looks great. Go back and check the top nut on the rear shocks. Doesn't appear to be tight enough. None of the threads are showing through the nut. For a nylock to do it's job, you need at least 3 threads exposed. That and the shock will likely wobble around in there if not tight enough which will create other issues.

 

I cranked on em yesterday after testing. Seems the stem isn't quite long enough and I was nervous putting that much pressure on the bushings, but it needed to be done.

 

Without a doubt having the Offroad model provides a better 4x4 engagement system, an electronic locker, and the multi terrain options. But it’s not like going from a Ford Fiesta to a Porsche Cayenne...which they would have you believe over there... Is it better for serious off-roading...absolutely! But that doesn’t make the SR5 a light weight... I do a lot of ATVing and my quad has locking diffs and I legitimately used it once when I got stuck in the snow. There have been many trails I have rode that I would not be able to walk up but simple 4x4 got me up safety. Having options are nice but sometimes not mandatory.

 

Preparing as I'm 1/2 way till 1st oil change.

 

Pardon my ignorance.
Purchased first T4R 3/7/19. I still don't have a Haynes Manual. Grr...
About ready to do a break in oil change @ 4,500 milesish.
I asked about the filter wrench last week & was planning on purchasing it from Amazon soon.
Did you buy a metal filter housing? Is that what I see?
I assume it still uses the necessary tool? The metal ones are made so if it seizes on you don't destroy the housing?
I am purely speculating.
Please, inform a newbie!
Thanks in advance.

 

people get the metal housing for peace of mind. Lots of horror stories of "professionals" damaging them. The sock plastic ones are fine, just don't over tighten them. The both use the same wrench. As for the Haynes, have not seen one for the 5th gens.

 

I am 6'4 230# I overtighten everything!
It appears that I need a metal housing also.
Any brands better than another or are they all the same?
Thanks.
What no Haynes! But... what... how...
Thanks for forums! Lol

 

I would recommend Tail as turn with some LED bulbs, think I spent 20 on some bulbs and 50 for the tail as turn kit

 

I repair a lot in the field.
I now under tighten & if it comes loose I tighten more.
Broken to many small things...

 

I'm in the same newbie group. Saw this online and coming from Ford who uses plastic drain plugs that hand turn out, I knew I had to get this. I'm kind of torn with 2 free oil changes but they don't use mechanics any more(at Ford anyways) and some just use dumb as rock kids.
Has anyone had luck trading the free oil changes to free oil and do it myself?

 

I doubt they’d do that, but worth a shot asking.

 

They use bulk oil from a truck.
No way they give you quart oil out the door.
"Inventory and labor..." blah blah blah!
Stealerships!

 

Plus service department and parts department are two different departments. At my dealership the departments don’t get along. I have friends that work both and they are always bad mouthing the others department. Service department says he loses a lot of commissions on work because the parts department marks things up to high$$. Go figure.
And they get paid by Toyota Corp. for the maintenance work.

 

Just now leaving East Coast Gear Supply and heading home. They did a great job replacing the driver's side bearing with their bushing. The noise and vibration is completely gone

 

Was that the ECGS issue?

 

He's referring to the drive line vibes that happen sometimes when these trucks are lifted. ECGS replaces a needle bearing with a solid bushing. It fixed the vibes on my tacoma.

 

BTW it you don't have to be lifted for it to happen (needle bearing). Happened to mine with about 22K on it. Fixed under warranty.

 

Yeah, that was what I was referencing, the Needle bearing fix. I am not sure if ours is starting it or not. Ive been a "Hypochondriac" ever since I did our 3" lift. I feel/hear all these phantom things now.

 

Yeah, doesn't need to be lifted, but is much more common once lifted. The problem with it being fixed by Toyota under warranty is that they use the same type part that is prone to failure in this application. The way to test if this is the issue you're having is once you notice the vibe (typically around 40 mph) put it in 4wd. If the vibe/noise goes away in 4wd, then comes back in 2wd it is the needle bearing.

 

Exactly what mine was doing. Right at 40mph. Put it in 4wd, no noise. It's so smooth now. I feel mine was going bad anyway as I have only had this lift on for about 1500 miles. Now I'm good for 500,000 miles. So for around $170 installed with new front seals thrown in I have a life of the vehicle fix. It was a no brainer. An ECGS is a great company. I was really impressed. They even gave me some swag on my way out the door. Enjoying a cold one in their koozie as we speak

 

Yeah but right now it was free under warranty. Just let them fix it. If it was out of warranty it would have been different. Some folks have mentioned that they have been replacing the front diff when this happens so they may have found the problem was the diff and updated the part - maybe.

 

An if they don't replace the diff on yours you will be putting the ECGS bushing in anyway when the replacement bearing goes out in another 35,000 miles. I understand what you are saying but again for $170 to have them replace it, it was a no brainer for me. An I didn't have some dealer monkey touching my vehicle. Not saying all techs are bad but just saying it's hit or miss, an that's being kind.

 

I agree, sad but great service is long gone. Corporate gives mechanics a book rate of x hours per job. They don't get paid a penny if it takes longer.
If it was a major warranty problem I would simply remove my mods and trade it for another. Did that twice with Jeep. One lemon buyback and the replacement failed so went and bought a F150

 

I really need to stop surf shopping after a cold one or two! $37 so the bottle jack will lift the rear axle without slipping off. Took someone a few minutes to make. Even comes with alittle rust

 

Time to weld...
Dimensions please & thanks.!

 

Piece of scrap 4" channel and a piece of pipe. Could make that in 5 minutes for free.

 

lol, hence why I need to refrain from drinking and shopping. Just like the girls at last call, they all look good!